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JSS28DN1WW General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the JSS28DN1WW
61 - 75 of 274

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wire connection to socket was bad
6 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Gansevoort, NY
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Disconnected the old socket ( 2 srews ) removed the two wires from the old socket, reconnected them to the new socket and reinstalled the lamp.
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oven not as hot as temp display said it was
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from HOT SPRINGS, AR
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
pull out stove, unbolt old temp sensor inside stove with 1/4 nutdriver, go to back of stove and take off cover and unhook sensor and hook up new one, put all back together and slide stove back in place.
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Front Large Most Powerful Burner's Block had broken so it didn't heat
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Martin from plainfield, CT
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers
This electric stove has a lift up top which I lifted to get at the block and follow the wire back to the terminal at the back of the the stove. I removed the 5 small lag screws holding the back in place, removed the backing followed the wires back to where they connected in the Stove On/Off Control, disconnected the two wires from the co ntrol and then laid the new part in place rethreading and reconnecting the wires. I reinstalled the block and ran a test to ensure the burner operated correctly. After successful testing I disconnect the old block holder by removing the small lag screw, replace it with a new one that came with the replacement terminal block. I then inserted the block into the new holder carefully rolled up the excess wire and wrapped it in a couple of places with electrical tape and also secured it to the side of the stove, out of the way of operation with electrical tape, put the top down, plugged it back in and put it back in place. All told the repair took about 40 minutes. I was impressed with the speed of delivery, the quality of the product, the instructions for installation and the added bonus of getting a terminal block holder as part of the repair kit! Thank You for making me look like a genius!
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Oven Wouldn't Heat
7 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Russell from Yuma, AZ
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Replaced
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Hole In Back Was Too Small
5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lloyd from Hemphill, TX
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
I had to cut about 1/4 in. Off the top part of the back hold so the bakeing element would set on the bottom of the oven. Everything else went okay.
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oven would not heat
5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jim from Williamsburg, VA
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
I removed the 4 hex head screws holding the control panel , then the other 4 slotted screws. Disconnected all wires being careful to keep track of the color coding. Had a little trouble with the adhesive holding the face plate( I don't know why they even used it). Put the new panel in and reconnected it. Re set circuit breaker and tried t he oven. It still wouldn't heat. it wasn't the control panel, but a burned out wire connecting the element in the back of the oven. Well, anyway I learned how to do the job and the the new panel activates better, so all was not lost.
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old blackened oven racks
8 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Roger from Falls Church, VA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Replaced old with new.
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terminal was broken due to maney uses
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Emmett J from Winchester, VA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
unscrew the terminal block,pulled the old wires out,installed the new wires installed the new block
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none
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Laughlin, NV
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
slid the old ones out and slid the new ones in. done
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When you touched any button on the controls LOC on appeared.
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Roger from HUNTSVILLE, AL
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Talked to parts select tech after ordering the control board. Tech advised me that he felt the range could be repaired without installing any parts. Advised me to contact manufacture tech support and explain the problem. I did to find that the child safety lock was on, probably from cleaning and touching too many buttons at once while whi pping surface. Told me to hold down + and - at the same time for three seconds and it was fixed.
Parts select tech had told me don’t worry the parts are guaranteed so I called for a RMA and returned the parts for a refund. Thanks Parts Select, y’all are real professionals and that is greatly appreciated.
Thank you all.
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Switch started arcing in the dial range of 2 to 8 in about a year.
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Brian from HONEA PATH, SC
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Pulled the range out and unplugged it. Removed the back panel. Removed one wire at a time and plugging it in on the new switch. unscrewed the existing switch from the front panel (Two screws). Screwed the new one in, replaced the panel, plugged in the range and tested it. The new switch was a perfect OEM replacement and worked perfectly.
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blew out board by crossing wires..mistakenly toke out bulb assembly to replace bad bulb
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ken from CALABASH, NC
  • Very Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Turne off power to range..pulled oven out..Took top back panel off with nut driver. 4screws .. Took picture of control board....removed bad control board with Phillips driver...4 screws....installed New board...removed 1 connection at a time and replaced in New board..Turned power on to test new board...check picture to make sure connect ions are correct...turn off power...put back panel back on...put range back in place...turn power back o n...done ..approximate time 15 to 20 minutes..
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Two sockets for electric elements and their end terminals were badly burned.
4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Marco from Santa Barbara, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
0) Take the back cover of the range off.
1) Carefully noted how the wires and the sockets were connected.
2) Visually checked that the new parts were practically identical old ones.
3) Put together the new sockets from the parts in the kit.
4) disconnect the old sockets and put the new sockets in place.
5) For eac h unit disconnect one old wire at the time and connect the new wire. Repeat the same for second wire.
6) Neatly bunch together the rest of the wires with electrical tape. Do not cut the wires!

That's it! It took about 20-30 minutes.
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left front Burner not working
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ivan from FORT WORTH, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Unplug stove from its wall outlet. Remove two screws securing rear panel. Pull off knob to Burner control which was damaged when surface
heating element shorted out. Remove two screws securing control knob.
When removing control knob be sure the wires removed from the old control knob are put back on in the same position on the new knob. Reinstall the control knob, and reinstall screws. To remove heating element. Just lift it out and unplug and just plug the new one.
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The burner bowls were burnt through and nasty looking.
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Isabel from The Colony, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I carefully removed the burners, removed the bowls and replaced them with the new ones. Easy as pie!
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All Instructions for the JSS28DN1WW
61 - 75 of 274