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JSS28DF1WW General Electric Range - Instructions
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the temp was not accurate
7 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
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scott from new harmony, UT
- A Bit Difficult
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Socket set
had to remove the oven from the wall. once i realized that i had to take the side wall brackets off before removing the oven it was quite easy. then just had to remove oven door and slide the unit onto a chair while replacing the sensor. put it all back in and the wife was so happy to have her oven back she made me a batch of brownies. yu
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m.
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surface burner switch was burned
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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abbas from redmond, WA
- Really Easy
- More than 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
After receiving the new swith from part select in less than four days with surface mail as they promised, it took me less than five minutes to replace the new swith with the old one. The only tools that I needed were A) a 5/16 nut driver to remove the back panel in order to get an access to the swith.B) a phillips screw driver to remove t
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he swith assembley from the front panel.
I had an estimate from a technician to do the job for 196.27 dollars!!!!!:(:(. I only paid 29.56 Dollars to part select to get this swith, including the shipping.:):):)
I had an estimate from a technician to do the job for 196.27 dollars!!!!!:(:(. I only paid 29.56 Dollars to part select to get this swith, including the shipping.:):):)
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needed new rack and burner
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Heike from North Haven, CT
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
easy to do.
Other Parts Used:
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8 inch burner would not work on lower settings
6 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Melvin J. from Waldport, OR
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
1. Shut off power at breaker.
2. lift and prop up burner panel (top of stove)
3. removed three screws along top edge.
4. remove oven door (lifts off hinges easy)
5. remove 4 screws along upper oven opening
6. remove 2 screws up under front panel and pull out upper panel enough to access back of switches.
7 ... Read more . unplug wires (5) one at a time and plug onto new switch.
8. remove the two screws from front holding switch in place and remove old switch.
9. install the two screws attaching new switcj.
10 replace all screws in reverse order.
11. Re-install door.
12 close breaker
easy job any one with any mechanical no-how can do.
2. lift and prop up burner panel (top of stove)
3. removed three screws along top edge.
4. remove oven door (lifts off hinges easy)
5. remove 4 screws along upper oven opening
6. remove 2 screws up under front panel and pull out upper panel enough to access back of switches.
7 ... Read more . unplug wires (5) one at a time and plug onto new switch.
8. remove the two screws from front holding switch in place and remove old switch.
9. install the two screws attaching new switcj.
10 replace all screws in reverse order.
11. Re-install door.
12 close breaker
easy job any one with any mechanical no-how can do.
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One of the drawer supports broke off
5 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John from Sandy Hook, CT
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
I pulled out the drawer and inserted the new support. This one inserts into the back of the drawer as opposed to the sides. I had ordered two of the replacements even though I only needed one and decided to replace both. I think it was a good move as the drawer works better than when we first got it. Just one simple screw made it com
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plete.
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Burner at full red hot power despite setting
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Matt from TAZEWELL, VA
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
After removing power from the range, I pulled the unit out for better access to the rear. I carefully pulled all four knobs off the front of the control panel. Next, using a short phillips screwdriver, I removed two screws from the front bottom of the control panel. On the rear of the control panel, there are four screws to loosen, now th
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e whole panel is free to remove toward the front of the unit. The burner switches are held onto the panel with two screws that are located on the front under where the knob had been. The wires are all connected to the switch with crimp type connectors. These are on tight, but can be removed carefully with pliers. Before doing so, I took a picture on my phone to ensure I replaced the wires in the correct order. Everything goes back together in reverse order. This is a good time to clean behind and under the whole stove. The whole process took around 20 minutes.
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Oven slow to heat.
6 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Scott from Burleson, TX
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
First I removed the 4 screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches. I removed the sensor and disconnected the connector.
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oven not as hot as temp display said it was
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John from HOT SPRINGS, AR
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
pull out stove, unbolt old temp sensor inside stove with 1/4 nutdriver, go to back of stove and take off cover and unhook sensor and hook up new one, put all back together and slide stove back in place.
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Oven control panel shorted while remove a broken lightbulb from the oven
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Terry from SEATTLE, WA
- Very Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
I removed the new control panel from its packaging and noticed that the button overlay was not included. I grabbed a putty knife and carefully loosened the adhesive on the old panel and was able to apply it to the new control panel. After installing it I looked up the number of my old panel on the included paperwork and simply entered the
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“profile” number after powering up the new one and It worked perfectly. I was very relieved to not have to buy a new range!
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Other Parts Used:
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wire connection to socket was bad
6 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
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David from Gansevoort, NY
- A Bit Difficult
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Disconnected the old socket ( 2 srews ) removed the two wires from the old socket, reconnected them to the new socket and reinstalled the lamp.
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Oven Wouldn't Heat
7 of 13 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Russell from Yuma, AZ
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Replaced
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oven would not heat
5 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jim from Williamsburg, VA
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
I removed the 4 hex head screws holding the control panel , then the other 4 slotted screws. Disconnected all wires being careful to keep track of the color coding. Had a little trouble with the adhesive holding the face plate( I don't know why they even used it). Put the new panel in and reconnected it. Re set circuit breaker and tried t
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he oven. It still wouldn't heat. it wasn't the control panel, but a burned out wire connecting the element in the back of the oven. Well, anyway I learned how to do the job and the the new panel activates better, so all was not lost.
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old blackened oven racks
8 of 17 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Roger from Falls Church, VA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Replaced old with new.
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Switch was not turning off range indicator light
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Charles from PORTLAND, OR
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Pulled stove out and unplugged. At the rear of the range there were 4 faster. Used a nutdriver piece in an electric drill. Pulled off the cover and located the switch. At the front of the stove, I removed the knob and unscrewed two screws releasing the switch. I undid and replaced each wire connector one-by-one to avoid any wrong connecti
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ons. Replaced and secured the switch and replace the back panel. All secured, power on and fixed! Easy repair, but something that had been put off for a year!
Also follow the installation videos from PartSelect - very helpful!
Also follow the installation videos from PartSelect - very helpful!
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The burner coil had shorted out and actually burnt a hole in my non stick pan and after I replaced that, it would not heat up again. I actually swapped the wires from the back burner, but the small coils use a different watt switch and it would barely boil water with the big coil. So I ordered this
4 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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sherman from OPELOUSAS, LA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
First turn off the breaker, and test with my milti meter. Raise the top panel where the coils are and prop it open high enough to use a screwdriver to open the front panel.
Then unscrew the three screws on the inside of the top panel, then open the oven door and you will see 4 screws across the bottom of thefront control board panel ... Read more and two more on each side of the sides of the panel facing straight up. Unscrew those 6 screws and then pull the front control panel forward and out. You might need something or someone to hold the panel, I just let the wires hold the weight, but not highly recommend. Then pull the switch knob off and behind it there are two little bitty screws that hold the switch in place. Unscrew them and pull the switch out of its place. I put the new switch close to the old one and just used the needle nose pliers to unplug one wire at a time and plug it in on the same place as the old one.
Then screw the itty bitty screws in the front that hold the switch in place and put tbe knob back on. Reposition the front panel back into place abs screw in the 9 screws removed for disassembly. Now would be a good time to clean under the burner panel if you haven’t done so yet ( it gets pretty nasty under there). Then put your burner top back down into place and turn your breaker back on. You can either test with your multi meter or like I did, just put the burner on high and watct the coils glow. Such a beautiful sight. Easy fix.
Then unscrew the three screws on the inside of the top panel, then open the oven door and you will see 4 screws across the bottom of thefront control board panel ... Read more and two more on each side of the sides of the panel facing straight up. Unscrew those 6 screws and then pull the front control panel forward and out. You might need something or someone to hold the panel, I just let the wires hold the weight, but not highly recommend. Then pull the switch knob off and behind it there are two little bitty screws that hold the switch in place. Unscrew them and pull the switch out of its place. I put the new switch close to the old one and just used the needle nose pliers to unplug one wire at a time and plug it in on the same place as the old one.
Then screw the itty bitty screws in the front that hold the switch in place and put tbe knob back on. Reposition the front panel back into place abs screw in the 9 screws removed for disassembly. Now would be a good time to clean under the burner panel if you haven’t done so yet ( it gets pretty nasty under there). Then put your burner top back down into place and turn your breaker back on. You can either test with your multi meter or like I did, just put the burner on high and watct the coils glow. Such a beautiful sight. Easy fix.
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