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JSS28DF1BB General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the JSS28DF1BB
46 - 60 of 230

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surface burner switch was burned
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • abbas from redmond, WA
  • Really Easy
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
After receiving the new swith from part select in less than four days with surface mail as they promised, it took me less than five minutes to replace the new swith with the old one. The only tools that I needed were A) a 5/16 nut driver to remove the back panel in order to get an access to the swith.B) a phillips screw driver to remove t he swith assembley from the front panel.

I had an estimate from a technician to do the job for 196.27 dollars!!!!!:(:(. I only paid 29.56 Dollars to part select to get this swith, including the shipping.:):):)
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replaced gasket on oven door
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • mary from MODESTO, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
followed video exactly
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needed new rack and burner
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Heike from North Haven, CT
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
easy to do.
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8 inch burner would not work on lower settings
6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Melvin J. from Waldport, OR
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
1. Shut off power at breaker.
2. lift and prop up burner panel (top of stove)
3. removed three screws along top edge.
4. remove oven door (lifts off hinges easy)
5. remove 4 screws along upper oven opening
6. remove 2 screws up under front panel and pull out upper panel enough to access back of switches.
7 . unplug wires (5) one at a time and plug onto new switch.
8. remove the two screws from front holding switch in place and remove old switch.
9. install the two screws attaching new switcj.
10 replace all screws in reverse order.
11. Re-install door.
12 close breaker
easy job any one with any mechanical no-how can do.
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One of the drawer supports broke off
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Sandy Hook, CT
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
I pulled out the drawer and inserted the new support. This one inserts into the back of the drawer as opposed to the sides. I had ordered two of the replacements even though I only needed one and decided to replace both. I think it was a good move as the drawer works better than when we first got it. Just one simple screw made it com plete.
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Burner at full red hot power despite setting
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Matt from TAZEWELL, VA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
After removing power from the range, I pulled the unit out for better access to the rear. I carefully pulled all four knobs off the front of the control panel. Next, using a short phillips screwdriver, I removed two screws from the front bottom of the control panel. On the rear of the control panel, there are four screws to loosen, now th e whole panel is free to remove toward the front of the unit. The burner switches are held onto the panel with two screws that are located on the front under where the knob had been. The wires are all connected to the switch with crimp type connectors. These are on tight, but can be removed carefully with pliers. Before doing so, I took a picture on my phone to ensure I replaced the wires in the correct order. Everything goes back together in reverse order. This is a good time to clean behind and under the whole stove. The whole process took around 20 minutes.
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Oven slow to heat.
6 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Scott from Burleson, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
First I removed the 4 screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches. I removed the sensor and disconnected the connector.
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Oven control panel shorted while remove a broken lightbulb from the oven
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Terry from SEATTLE, WA
  • Very Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
I removed the new control panel from its packaging and noticed that the button overlay was not included. I grabbed a putty knife and carefully loosened the adhesive on the old panel and was able to apply it to the new control panel. After installing it I looked up the number of my old panel on the included paperwork and simply entered the “profile” number after powering up the new one and It worked perfectly. I was very relieved to not have to buy a new range!
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wire connection to socket was bad
6 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Gansevoort, NY
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Disconnected the old socket ( 2 srews ) removed the two wires from the old socket, reconnected them to the new socket and reinstalled the lamp.
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oven not as hot as temp display said it was
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from HOT SPRINGS, AR
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
pull out stove, unbolt old temp sensor inside stove with 1/4 nutdriver, go to back of stove and take off cover and unhook sensor and hook up new one, put all back together and slide stove back in place.
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Oven Wouldn't Heat
7 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Russell from Yuma, AZ
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Replaced
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oven would not heat
5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jim from Williamsburg, VA
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
I removed the 4 hex head screws holding the control panel , then the other 4 slotted screws. Disconnected all wires being careful to keep track of the color coding. Had a little trouble with the adhesive holding the face plate( I don't know why they even used it). Put the new panel in and reconnected it. Re set circuit breaker and tried t he oven. It still wouldn't heat. it wasn't the control panel, but a burned out wire connecting the element in the back of the oven. Well, anyway I learned how to do the job and the the new panel activates better, so all was not lost.
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old blackened oven racks
8 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Roger from Falls Church, VA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Replaced old with new.
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Switch was not turning off range indicator light
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Charles from PORTLAND, OR
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Pulled stove out and unplugged. At the rear of the range there were 4 faster. Used a nutdriver piece in an electric drill. Pulled off the cover and located the switch. At the front of the stove, I removed the knob and unscrewed two screws releasing the switch. I undid and replaced each wire connector one-by-one to avoid any wrong connecti ons. Replaced and secured the switch and replace the back panel. All secured, power on and fixed! Easy repair, but something that had been put off for a year!
Also follow the installation videos from PartSelect - very helpful!
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F2 Warning - Oven overheating
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • john from bend, OR
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
I checked various sites on the net and decided that the temperature sensor was the problem. The GE price for the replacement part was about $105, most of the other sites offered the sensor in the $70 range. PartSelect $12.95 When the part arrived, I removed a small self taping screw, pulled the high temperature wire connector into th e oven space, disconnected the quick disconnect fitting, attached the new temperature sensor, pushed the connecting wire into its hole, replaced the screw and that was it. I probably saved about $200 in parts and labor over what a local repairman would have charged. Oh yes!! I first disconnected the power at the breaker box. Very important.
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All Instructions for the JSS28DF1BB
46 - 60 of 230