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JSS28CK4CC General Electric Range - Instructions
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Front Large Most Powerful Burner's Block had broken so it didn't heat
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Martin from plainfield, CT
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers
This electric stove has a lift up top which I lifted to get at the block and follow the wire back to the terminal at the back of the the stove. I removed the 5 small lag screws holding the back in place, removed the backing followed the wires back to where they connected in the Stove On/Off Control, disconnected the two wires from the co
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ntrol and then laid the new part in place rethreading and reconnecting the wires. I reinstalled the block and ran a test to ensure the burner operated correctly. After successful testing I disconnect the old block holder by removing the small lag screw, replace it with a new one that came with the replacement terminal block. I then inserted the block into the new holder carefully rolled up the excess wire and wrapped it in a couple of places with electrical tape and also secured it to the side of the stove, out of the way of operation with electrical tape, put the top down, plugged it back in and put it back in place. All told the repair took about 40 minutes. I was impressed with the speed of delivery, the quality of the product, the instructions for installation and the added bonus of getting a terminal block holder as part of the repair kit! Thank You for making me look like a genius!
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Oven Wouldn't Heat
7 of 13 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Russell from Yuma, AZ
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Replaced
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oven not as hot as temp display said it was
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John from HOT SPRINGS, AR
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
pull out stove, unbolt old temp sensor inside stove with 1/4 nutdriver, go to back of stove and take off cover and unhook sensor and hook up new one, put all back together and slide stove back in place.
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Oven control panel shorted while remove a broken lightbulb from the oven
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Terry from SEATTLE, WA
- Very Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
I removed the new control panel from its packaging and noticed that the button overlay was not included. I grabbed a putty knife and carefully loosened the adhesive on the old panel and was able to apply it to the new control panel. After installing it I looked up the number of my old panel on the included paperwork and simply entered the
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“profile” number after powering up the new one and It worked perfectly. I was very relieved to not have to buy a new range!
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Hole In Back Was Too Small
5 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Lloyd from Hemphill, TX
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
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Nutdriver, Pliers
I had to cut about 1/4 in. Off the top part of the back hold so the bakeing element would set on the bottom of the oven. Everything else went okay.
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oven would not heat
5 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jim from Williamsburg, VA
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
I removed the 4 hex head screws holding the control panel , then the other 4 slotted screws. Disconnected all wires being careful to keep track of the color coding. Had a little trouble with the adhesive holding the face plate( I don't know why they even used it). Put the new panel in and reconnected it. Re set circuit breaker and tried t
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he oven. It still wouldn't heat. it wasn't the control panel, but a burned out wire connecting the element in the back of the oven. Well, anyway I learned how to do the job and the the new panel activates better, so all was not lost.
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terminal was broken due to maney uses
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Emmett J from Winchester, VA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
unscrew the terminal block,pulled the old wires out,installed the new wires installed the new block
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old blackened oven racks
8 of 17 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Roger from Falls Church, VA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Replaced old with new.
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Switch was not turning off range indicator light
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Charles from PORTLAND, OR
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Pulled stove out and unplugged. At the rear of the range there were 4 faster. Used a nutdriver piece in an electric drill. Pulled off the cover and located the switch. At the front of the stove, I removed the knob and unscrewed two screws releasing the switch. I undid and replaced each wire connector one-by-one to avoid any wrong connecti
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ons. Replaced and secured the switch and replace the back panel. All secured, power on and fixed! Easy repair, but something that had been put off for a year!
Also follow the installation videos from PartSelect - very helpful!
Also follow the installation videos from PartSelect - very helpful!
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The burner coil had shorted out and actually burnt a hole in my non stick pan and after I replaced that, it would not heat up again. I actually swapped the wires from the back burner, but the small coils use a different watt switch and it would barely boil water with the big coil. So I ordered this
4 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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sherman from OPELOUSAS, LA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
First turn off the breaker, and test with my milti meter. Raise the top panel where the coils are and prop it open high enough to use a screwdriver to open the front panel.
Then unscrew the three screws on the inside of the top panel, then open the oven door and you will see 4 screws across the bottom of thefront control board panel ... Read more and two more on each side of the sides of the panel facing straight up. Unscrew those 6 screws and then pull the front control panel forward and out. You might need something or someone to hold the panel, I just let the wires hold the weight, but not highly recommend. Then pull the switch knob off and behind it there are two little bitty screws that hold the switch in place. Unscrew them and pull the switch out of its place. I put the new switch close to the old one and just used the needle nose pliers to unplug one wire at a time and plug it in on the same place as the old one.
Then screw the itty bitty screws in the front that hold the switch in place and put tbe knob back on. Reposition the front panel back into place abs screw in the 9 screws removed for disassembly. Now would be a good time to clean under the burner panel if you haven’t done so yet ( it gets pretty nasty under there). Then put your burner top back down into place and turn your breaker back on. You can either test with your multi meter or like I did, just put the burner on high and watct the coils glow. Such a beautiful sight. Easy fix.
Then unscrew the three screws on the inside of the top panel, then open the oven door and you will see 4 screws across the bottom of thefront control board panel ... Read more and two more on each side of the sides of the panel facing straight up. Unscrew those 6 screws and then pull the front control panel forward and out. You might need something or someone to hold the panel, I just let the wires hold the weight, but not highly recommend. Then pull the switch knob off and behind it there are two little bitty screws that hold the switch in place. Unscrew them and pull the switch out of its place. I put the new switch close to the old one and just used the needle nose pliers to unplug one wire at a time and plug it in on the same place as the old one.
Then screw the itty bitty screws in the front that hold the switch in place and put tbe knob back on. Reposition the front panel back into place abs screw in the 9 screws removed for disassembly. Now would be a good time to clean under the burner panel if you haven’t done so yet ( it gets pretty nasty under there). Then put your burner top back down into place and turn your breaker back on. You can either test with your multi meter or like I did, just put the burner on high and watct the coils glow. Such a beautiful sight. Easy fix.
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The burner bowls were burnt through and nasty looking.
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Isabel from The Colony, TX
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
I carefully removed the burners, removed the bowls and replaced them with the new ones. Easy as pie!
Other Parts Used:
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F2 Warning - Oven overheating
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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john from bend, OR
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Socket set
I checked various sites on the net and decided that the temperature sensor was the problem. The GE price for the replacement part was about $105, most of the other sites offered the sensor in the $70 range. PartSelect $12.95 When the part arrived, I removed a small self taping screw, pulled the high temperature wire connector into th
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e oven space, disconnected the quick disconnect fitting, attached the new temperature sensor, pushed the connecting wire into its hole, replaced the screw and that was it. I probably saved about $200 in parts and labor over what a local repairman would have charged. Oh yes!! I first disconnected the power at the breaker box. Very important.
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When you touched any button on the controls LOC on appeared.
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Roger from HUNTSVILLE, AL
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Talked to parts select tech after ordering the control board. Tech advised me that he felt the range could be repaired without installing any parts. Advised me to contact manufacture tech support and explain the problem. I did to find that the child safety lock was on, probably from cleaning and touching too many buttons at once while whi
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pping surface. Told me to hold down + and - at the same time for three seconds and it was fixed.
Parts select tech had told me don’t worry the parts are guaranteed so I called for a RMA and returned the parts for a refund. Thanks Parts Select, y’all are real professionals and that is greatly appreciated.
Thank you all.
Parts select tech had told me don’t worry the parts are guaranteed so I called for a RMA and returned the parts for a refund. Thanks Parts Select, y’all are real professionals and that is greatly appreciated.
Thank you all.
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left front Burner not working
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Ivan from FORT WORTH, TX
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Unplug stove from its wall outlet. Remove two screws securing rear panel. Pull off knob to Burner control which was damaged when surface
heating element shorted out. Remove two screws securing control knob.
When removing control knob be sure the wires removed from the old control knob are put back on in the same position on the ... Read more new knob. Reinstall the control knob, and reinstall screws. To remove heating element. Just lift it out and unplug and just plug the new one.
heating element shorted out. Remove two screws securing control knob.
When removing control knob be sure the wires removed from the old control knob are put back on in the same position on the ... Read more new knob. Reinstall the control knob, and reinstall screws. To remove heating element. Just lift it out and unplug and just plug the new one.
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none
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Michael from Laughlin, NV
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
slid the old ones out and slid the new ones in. done
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