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JSP47CF4CC General Electric Range - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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Oven not getting to temperature
7 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Kyle from MIDDLETON, WI
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
Very simple. Remove one screw and carefully pull the sensor until you see the connection point. Remove the old one and snap the new one in and guide the wire back and reassemble the screw. Be sure to remove the oven door for easy access.
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When we bought the house the gasket was hard from food deposits
7 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Patricia from Amarillo, TX
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Just pulled out the old one and pushed in the new one. Very easy. I was afraid to run this self-cleaning oven until I installed the new gasket. It worked perfectly.
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Rotary switch for the dual control burner failed
8 of 11 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Robert from Belvidere, NJ
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
Removed range from cabinets then approximately 6 sheet metal screws from the front of the range and two 1/4" sheet metal screws from the side to remove the front and top of the range. Lifted the cook top removed the two screws from the rotary switch and followed the directions included with switch to connect the wires. In reverse order
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reassembeled the range.
Quick & Easy
Quick & Easy
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left front burner would not turn on
7 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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manuel from key west, FL
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Wrench (Adjustable)
Removed panel to gain access, removed wires from switch from burner that was not operating and attached them to switch for burner that was working. Burner worked, problem identified. Replaced bad switch with new switch. Problem solved.
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Broken Bake Element
7 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Joseph from Beaumont, CA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver
I unfastened the three 1/4" rear screws, then the two support screws on top. I pulled the old element out,( plenty of slack wire luckily). disconnected it from the bayonet-type connections, then attached the new element. I secured the new element using the 1/4" screws. Bingo!
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Oven light did not work
9 of 16 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Howard from Rio Vista, CA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
Turned off power to the oven, Removed the oven light housing, installed new housing, turned power on and walla.
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Outer ring of burner did not work
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Barry from Bradenton, FL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
1- opened oven door
2- unscrewed 2 screws underneath top with a socket wrench
3- unscrewed clips that held burner
4-used needle nose pliers to pull off wire clips off old burner
5- placed wires onto new burner
6- opened clips to make it easier to reinsert burner
7-reattached burner
8-Replaced top
... Read more r />The hardest part was unscrewing the 2 screws that held the top in place due to the position of the screws
2- unscrewed 2 screws underneath top with a socket wrench
3- unscrewed clips that held burner
4-used needle nose pliers to pull off wire clips off old burner
5- placed wires onto new burner
6- opened clips to make it easier to reinsert burner
7-reattached burner
8-Replaced top
... Read more r />The hardest part was unscrewing the 2 screws that held the top in place due to the position of the screws
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Light not working tried to Remove light assembly not knowing glass could screw out. Without thinking grounded exposed hot wire to burner bracket melting light socket connector. Had to replace socket.
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Richard from CUMMING, GA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Socket set
First and most important trun off curcit breaker. Use 1/4 inch but driver to remove socket (2) screws. Remove ground and hot wire clips from old socket, replace on new socket. Screw back into oven ceiling and turn on power. Reset clock and your are done. Very simple.
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Right front burner had no heat control. (High heat when on "Low")
7 of 11 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John from Ocoee, FL
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Pull range out of the "hole", and spin so that back of range is accessible. Remove cover over top "control area" on back of range. (Four screws that happen to be the same size as the magnetic socket that holds the interchangeable tip on a cordless screw gun. Simply remove this tip, and use the tip holder as a magnetic nut driver!). Rem
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ove the knob by pulling gently straight off. Remove black plastic retaining nut under where knob was. Inside are two small screws that hold the switch in place. Remove these screws with a magnetic screwdriver (If you drop these screws and lose them, you'll have a hard time finding them. Very small!!). Carefully follow enclosed instructions to move the wires from the old switch to the new switch. Put back together in reverse order.
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Broiler Element Failed
6 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Ron from Irvine, CA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Socket set
Disconnect the power to the oven at the main breaker panel. Open the oven door to the first stop (not all the way open) and pull straight up to remove the oven door from the hinge. Using a 1/4" drive ratchet with 1/2" extension with 1/4" socket, remove the 1/4" sheetmetal screw holding the temperature probe at the center of the broiler mo
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unting plate. Remove the two 1/4" screws holding the broiler mounting plate. Remove the two 1/4" screws holding the broiler element at the ceiling of the oven. Pull the broiler element out from the back of the oven and there should be two electrical connectors at the back of the broiler element. Pull the electrical connectors off of element. Replace the element and re-install in reverse order.
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The small burner inside the double burner shortd out.
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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david from PORT ORANGE, FL
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
The first thing was to watch U-Tube . The replacement burner was being
replaced in a GE glass top range. Exter tools were required than depicted
in the U-Tube project. The project overall was not dificult for me however I was a general contracter for over 25 years
replaced in a GE glass top range. Exter tools were required than depicted
in the U-Tube project. The project overall was not dificult for me however I was a general contracter for over 25 years
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Wife broke the interior window by splashing water on it while heated to 450.
6 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Dennis from GRETNA, NE
- Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Well I did it all wrong from the get go. I did finally do a search on how to replace it and then it was quite easy. Learn from me, watch video and save yourself tons of hassle.
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Original terminal block plastic shielding melted, protecting appliance when the wires overheated.
6 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Brian from DOVER, PA
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
Safety first * Unplugged 220 VAC from outlet. Removed shield cover screws with 1/4" hex nut driver (5 screws). Removed all 6 silver screws from terminal block with 1/4" nut driver, freeing all wires. Removed the green ground screw and ground bracket from center terminal. Cut away (using the drill) melted original terminal block plastic to
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access the 2 black 1/4" nuts holding original terminal block onto appliance. Discarded the original damaged terminal block. Attached the new terminal block, aligning the mounting holes and the terminal block the same way the original terminal block was lined up and re-used the black 1/4" nuts (original used because the replacement package did not include new black screws). I bought a new appliance cord, since the original cord overheated. Reattached all wires using the 6 new silver screws. Start with the middle terminal by attaching the appliance wires and the ground bracket. The ground must be attached to the bracket and the bracket bridges between the terminal block and the range body. Reattached shield cover. Plugged in appliance. Note: it doesn't matter which outside wire attaches to the outside terminals (both are hot), but the middle wire (neutral) must attach to the middle terminal. However, the ring terminal should be flush on the terminal block so you don't bend the ring.
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the temp was not accurate
7 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
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scott from new harmony, UT
- A Bit Difficult
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Socket set
had to remove the oven from the wall. once i realized that i had to take the side wall brackets off before removing the oven it was quite easy. then just had to remove oven door and slide the unit onto a chair while replacing the sensor. put it all back in and the wife was so happy to have her oven back she made me a batch of brownies. yu
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m.
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Oven would intermittently loose all power when hot
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Eric from Hemphill, TX
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Socket set
First found and threw appropriate breakers. Then removed knobs and faceplate retainer nuts and pulled off faceplate. Next removed four control panel retaining screws and lifted out and partially spun/inverted control panel. Couldn't fully remove due to wiring. Next removed four oven control screws and pulled back control module. Then just
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removed all wiring connections to old control module. Worked in reverse with new control module, turned breaker back on, and just had to set the clock. Back in business!
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