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Model numbers can be made up of numbers (1005400, for example) or a combination of letters and numbers (LAT1000AAE). The model number will most likely appear on either a paper sticker or a metal plate. Your appliance's model number tag may look similar to the sample model number tags shown here (model number highlighted in yellow):
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This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually.
It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible with a variety of appliance types including refrigerators, ranges,...
The oven rack is sold individually. It is chrome in color and measures approximately 24 inches wide by 17-1/2 inches deep. The rack is used to hold cookware in the oven and slides back and forth for e...
This genuine GE drawer support is an original replacement part sourced from the manufacturer and is designed for use with electric ranges. Made of durable plastic, it attaches to the rear of the drawe...
The function of the oven sensor is to detect the temperature within the oven cavity. If you notice that the oven is too hot or too cold, or it is not heating evenly, you may need to replace the oven s...
This is a large dual haliant element with a limiter or sensor for glass cooktops and freestanding ranges. It is a 2500-watt part. The inner diameter measures 9 inches, while the outer diameter measure...
This part is the replacement oven bulb lens cover. It is made of glass and is approximately 3 inches in diameter. The lens cover is rigid and protects the oven light bulb from being damaged. The main ...
The light housing is also known as a lamp holder and is a part for the oven in your range. The function of this piece is to hold the bulb that will light up the inside of your oven. As per the manufac...
This haliant burner element is a gneuine OEM replacement part for your stove. This element is 8 inches in diameter. The element lies underneath the stovetop, and will need to be replaced if it stops h...
This large broiler pan is found in the bottom of your oven and is used to catch drippings from broiling foods. This part includes the grate and bottom pan and is made of porcelain. The grate measures ...
Here's a part you may need: the GE Transmission Pulley. This essential piece helps your appliance work at peak performance smoothly and efficiently. Produced by the trustworthy GE brand, it's a durabl...
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Barbara
February 27, 2023
the code F2 keep coming up. What does this mean.
For model number JSP42BK4BB
Hi Barbara, thank you for reaching out. According to our research, the F2 error indicates the oven is detecting that the temperature inside the oven has exceeded a preset threshold. The temperature has probably exceeded 615 degrees. You may need to check the oven sensor, part number PS236398. If the temperature has exceeded 615F-630F, check the welded contacts on bake and broil relays. If present, you may need to replace the electronic clock oven control, part number PS753786. We hope this helps!
This was really easy, and pretty with no problems or issues It took me longer to write this than to do the actual installation. I used a digital camera to help me remember where things were, but a pen/paper works fine. Here's what I did:
1. Turn off the breaker for the cooktop.
2. Remove (2) 1/4" hex screws directly
... Read moreunder cooktop. You may need to open oven door to reveal them.
2. Prop up cooktop. I used the box the replacement element came in.
3. The element is held in place with (3) brackets held in by a #2 philips screw each. Mark the location of each of the brackets. There are numbers on the element to help you do this.
4. Write down where each of the wires connects to the element. There's only a few of them, but I tend to forget that stuff. The wires have female spade-type connectors that connect to the male ends on the element.
5. Using a needle-nose or small pliers wiggle each wire off the element. Grab the wires by the end of the female connector when you do this. I found it helpful to use a small flat screwdriver to help pry them off. Mine were on pretty tight, so expect this to take a few mins. If you have problems getting to the wires, remove the brackets (next step) first and come back to this one. I let the element hang from the wires without any problems, but I still wouldn't recommend it.
6. Remove each of the screws with a #2 philips screwdriver. Support the element with your hand and gently pull each bracket away from the element. Once they're all gone, the element should just come out. I took a look at my old element and saw that the large burner wires were melted in a couple places, so it was definitely broken.
7. If necessary, clean the underside of the cooktop surface with a clean papertowel. There was a little dust from the old element on mine.
8. Connect the new element and test to make sure it works by turning on the breaker and turning on the burner for a second or two. Note: This will make the top of the element hot for some time, so test it and go away for a few mins. If it works OK, proceed. If not, disconnect and figure out what else may be wrong.
9. Using the old element, make copies of the marks you made for the bracket locations onto the new element. You'll have to punch through the insulation when re-attaching the screws.
10. Re-wire the new element, if necessary and re-attach the brackets over the marks you made. This may be a pretty tight fit because the new element was thicker than the old on mine. I opened up the brackets a bit to make it not so hard to re-attach. Hook the brackets on and squeeze them over the element. The holes in the brackets need to line up with the holes drilled into the bottom of the element. If they don't, spin the element around (or detach and re-attach the brackets) till they do.
11. Screw in the (3) screws over the brackets pushing them through the insulation on the element.
12. Close the cooktop and reattach the hex screws under it (1/4" hex).
Repair was very simple. Removed 2 screws under the cooktop, tilt the cooktop back, unplug 4 wires from 8" burner, remove two screws holding retaining clips, install new burner in reverse order. Very simple!
I had to remove the oven from the wall because the sensor plug connction is behind the unit. Two screws hold the sensor inside the oven and then I disconnected the lead and pulled the sensor out from the front. I installed the new sensor, tightened the two screws holding it in and connected the lead. Then reinstalled the oven into the wal
... Read morel. Overall, a very easy repair once you get the oven out.
