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JS250RF1SS General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the JS250RF1SS
46 - 60 of 265

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When the burner was turned on it would be on high for any setting. In fact, the burner would be warm to touch even when the switch was in the off position.
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Daniel from CEDARVILLE, OH
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
I turned the power off at the circuit breaker, pulled the stove out from the wall, and removed the plug. I removed the top back panel, and took the burner switch out by unscrewing the 2 screws in the front of the panel. I used pliers to remove the wires one at a time from the bad switch and put them on the good switch. I replaced the new burner switch on the front panel and also, replaced the back panel. I put the plug back in the socket, pushed the stove against the wall, and turned the power on at the circuit breaker.
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Light not working tried to Remove light assembly not knowing glass could screw out. Without thinking grounded exposed hot wire to burner bracket melting light socket connector. Had to replace socket.
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from CUMMING, GA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
First and most important trun off curcit breaker. Use 1/4 inch but driver to remove socket (2) screws. Remove ground and hot wire clips from old socket, replace on new socket. Screw back into oven ceiling and turn on power. Reset clock and your are done. Very simple.
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8" element shorted out
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Highlands, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
First replaced the 8" burner element-still did not work.
second: replaced the TERMINAL BLOCK KIT still did not work.
third : finally replaced switch: very easly-make sure you do not take off any of the wires on the back of the switch-take new switch and replace each wire on the same location than remove the old switch and replac ed wired new on with the two screws.
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8 inch burner would not work on lower settings
6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Melvin J. from Waldport, OR
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
1. Shut off power at breaker.
2. lift and prop up burner panel (top of stove)
3. removed three screws along top edge.
4. remove oven door (lifts off hinges easy)
5. remove 4 screws along upper oven opening
6. remove 2 screws up under front panel and pull out upper panel enough to access back of switches.
7 . unplug wires (5) one at a time and plug onto new switch.
8. remove the two screws from front holding switch in place and remove old switch.
9. install the two screws attaching new switcj.
10 replace all screws in reverse order.
11. Re-install door.
12 close breaker
easy job any one with any mechanical no-how can do.
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surface burner switch was burned
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • abbas from redmond, WA
  • Really Easy
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
After receiving the new swith from part select in less than four days with surface mail as they promised, it took me less than five minutes to replace the new swith with the old one. The only tools that I needed were A) a 5/16 nut driver to remove the back panel in order to get an access to the swith.B) a phillips screw driver to remove t he swith assembley from the front panel.

I had an estimate from a technician to do the job for 196.27 dollars!!!!!:(:(. I only paid 29.56 Dollars to part select to get this swith, including the shipping.:):):)
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the temp was not accurate
7 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • scott from new harmony, UT
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
had to remove the oven from the wall. once i realized that i had to take the side wall brackets off before removing the oven it was quite easy. then just had to remove oven door and slide the unit onto a chair while replacing the sensor. put it all back in and the wife was so happy to have her oven back she made me a batch of brownies. yu m.
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replaced gasket on oven door
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • mary from MODESTO, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
followed video exactly
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wire connection to socket was bad
6 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Gansevoort, NY
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Disconnected the old socket ( 2 srews ) removed the two wires from the old socket, reconnected them to the new socket and reinstalled the lamp.
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Oven control panel shorted while remove a broken lightbulb from the oven
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Terry from SEATTLE, WA
  • Very Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
I removed the new control panel from its packaging and noticed that the button overlay was not included. I grabbed a putty knife and carefully loosened the adhesive on the old panel and was able to apply it to the new control panel. After installing it I looked up the number of my old panel on the included paperwork and simply entered the “profile” number after powering up the new one and It worked perfectly. I was very relieved to not have to buy a new range!
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Front Large Most Powerful Burner's Block had broken so it didn't heat
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Martin from plainfield, CT
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers
This electric stove has a lift up top which I lifted to get at the block and follow the wire back to the terminal at the back of the the stove. I removed the 5 small lag screws holding the back in place, removed the backing followed the wires back to where they connected in the Stove On/Off Control, disconnected the two wires from the co ntrol and then laid the new part in place rethreading and reconnecting the wires. I reinstalled the block and ran a test to ensure the burner operated correctly. After successful testing I disconnect the old block holder by removing the small lag screw, replace it with a new one that came with the replacement terminal block. I then inserted the block into the new holder carefully rolled up the excess wire and wrapped it in a couple of places with electrical tape and also secured it to the side of the stove, out of the way of operation with electrical tape, put the top down, plugged it back in and put it back in place. All told the repair took about 40 minutes. I was impressed with the speed of delivery, the quality of the product, the instructions for installation and the added bonus of getting a terminal block holder as part of the repair kit! Thank You for making me look like a genius!
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Oven Wouldn't Heat
7 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Russell from Yuma, AZ
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Replaced
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oven not as hot as temp display said it was
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from HOT SPRINGS, AR
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
pull out stove, unbolt old temp sensor inside stove with 1/4 nutdriver, go to back of stove and take off cover and unhook sensor and hook up new one, put all back together and slide stove back in place.
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One of the drawer supports broke off
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Sandy Hook, CT
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
I pulled out the drawer and inserted the new support. This one inserts into the back of the drawer as opposed to the sides. I had ordered two of the replacements even though I only needed one and decided to replace both. I think it was a good move as the drawer works better than when we first got it. Just one simple screw made it com plete.
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Oven slow to heat.
6 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Scott from Burleson, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
First I removed the 4 screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches. I removed the sensor and disconnected the connector.
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Burner at full red hot power despite setting
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Matt from TAZEWELL, VA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
After removing power from the range, I pulled the unit out for better access to the rear. I carefully pulled all four knobs off the front of the control panel. Next, using a short phillips screwdriver, I removed two screws from the front bottom of the control panel. On the rear of the control panel, there are four screws to loosen, now th e whole panel is free to remove toward the front of the unit. The burner switches are held onto the panel with two screws that are located on the front under where the knob had been. The wires are all connected to the switch with crimp type connectors. These are on tight, but can be removed carefully with pliers. Before doing so, I took a picture on my phone to ensure I replaced the wires in the correct order. Everything goes back together in reverse order. This is a good time to clean behind and under the whole stove. The whole process took around 20 minutes.
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All Instructions for the JS250RF1SS
46 - 60 of 265