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JF1601 General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the JF1601
1 - 15 of 134

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The lower bake element burned out.
67 of 72 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Carlos from Southaven, MS
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires, reconnected the wires to the new element, reattached it to the oven and voila!

It worked. What was really cool, once I ordered the part, I received it in only two work days!

Goo d job folks!
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Replaced lower element in GE Spectra range.
22 of 31 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Phillip from Greeneville, TN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Hardest part was getting the wrong element and having to send it back and reordering correct one....too many variables. Two screws inside the oven removed, pull out range and take off back and attach new element to plug ins!
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Old element burned through. Sparks were flying!
19 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Baton Rouge, LA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Turned off power at breaker panel. Removed 2 screws attaching element to stove. Pulled element out a couple of inches and removed 2 wires attached with screws. Installation is reverse order of removal.
Be careful not to twist the terminal ends when tightening screws.

shipping was very fast!
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The gasket needed to be replaced in top oven, it was brittle and broken.
19 of 28 people found this instruction helpful.
  • JoAnn from Auburn, WA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
We took out the philips screws on the right and left side of inside of the oven and two hex head screws on the clip on the top of the oven in the front. Then using a slot screw driver pryed the oven liner out enough to remove old gasket and replace the new gasket. We did see in some online directions that we were suppose to remove enti re oven from cabinet and loosen bolts in the back. But, we were able to get enough space to get the old gasket out and new one installed. We did use a 1/4" thick piece of wood on face of oven to prevent any denting of oven when prying out the liner of the oven.
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Heating element burned out
11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Steven from Morganton, NC
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Of course I unplugged the stove. Then I removed the cover to reveal the connections for the element. After unscrewing the two wire connectors, I had to use a nut driver to remove the two screws holding it in place in the oven. The new element went in easily. I screwed it in place in the oven and then attached the two wires in the back and replaced cover. Plugged it in, tested it, and we were good to go.

Note: this was a second attempt, The first time I ordered a heating element with push on connectors not screw on. Beware! Pay attention to the pictures and description. I ordered too quickly.
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Bad Element
9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Sarah from Gladstone, MI
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Our element blew in our oven, we took it out and saw what we needed. It was very easy to see what part we needed to order because of the great pictures on the website. The larger views really helped. We got the part quickly and put it in. It was a breeze and now our oven is working great! The best part however, is it only cost about $33.00 including shipping and handling. Much cheaper than if we would have had someone come in to fix it!
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Lower oven heat element burned out
7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Debra from Colorado Springs, CO
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
First, shut off the breaker to the stove. Removed old element by unscrewing the two screws on the plate where the element attached at the bottom of the inside of the oven. The old element was corroded at the connection, so disconnect it, attached the new one, pushed it back in the insulated socket then reattached the two screws on the pla te. Flipped the breaker back on. Works great. Only took about 25 min. from start to finish.
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Oven Gasket Worn and Brittle
7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Karen from Yakima, WA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Took oven door off. Removed screws that were holding oven insert. Pulled out oven insert. Removed old gasket. Installed new gasket. Push oven insert back. Installed screws. Replaced oven door.
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Gasket around rim of oven broke while cleaning
7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dorothy from Santa Rosa, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Son-in-law unscrewed oven compartment; broken gasket was easy enough to remove and new gasket easy to replace; only problem was oven door would not shut tight. Tried shoving gasket harder into groove, tried turning on oven and heating new gasket to see if it would soften. Finally got it to close by pushing hard on left side of oven and inside light would at least go off and stay off.
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Faulty lower element in oven
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Larry from Batesburg, SC
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Note: Please make sure power is off!!! Turn off at the fuse panel,Main. Test oven after you turn off breaker...try turning on oven with normal switch, indicator light should be off. Also check interior light, usually wired 110 volts, may be on a separate circuit, just for safety!!. Remove retaing screws, scewdriver will work , but a nut d river is easier. Pull old element out gently and check between terminals with volt meter. Remove screws on element holding feed wire, reverse this process to install. Test oven for proper operation after installation...make sure oven cycles through a set temperature range.
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The Bake Element in my 23yo GE range literally MELTED!
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Nick from Port Orchard, WA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Finding the replacement part on partselect.com was easy. The search feature brought me to a diagram of the bake element and offered precise grid measurements to assure me it was the correct part.

Be sure to completely unplug your stove before doing anything. The only tools I used were a small nut driver, a standard pliers a nd a flashlight (and a cushion for my old knees, ha).

Installation was easy, but you have to be very careful to not bend the little prongs were you attach the element to the stove wires... they bend pretty easily, so hold them tight or hold them in a pliers firmly but without crushing them. Drive the two screws to attach the element to the wires; then, drive the two screws to hold the element face plate against the rear of the oven, and viola, you're done!

Thanks, partselect - website, price, packaging and shipping were perfect! Also, I got several good tips from the feedback of other customers that were very helpful. That is a nice feature of your website and a good customer service.
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Heating element not warming up
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Alexandre from CARY, NC
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Before you start, make sure the circuit breaker is not tripped, which can explain element not heating.
In my case, the toaster element was ok, which tells us that the oven is receiveing electric current.
1) Take the grills out so you have free access
2) Remove the door - this model just pull it up to let it free
3) rem ove the 2 screws securing the element on backwall of the oven and gently pull the element out
4) if you have a multimeter:
a) set it to AC, greater than 300 V
b) use your alligator clips, attach the clips
to the contacts of the element
c) briefly turn the oven on: expect to read between 230 and 260 volts
5) remove the screws securing the old element
6) install the new element;
7) secure the element back to the backwall
8) turn the oven briefly on and feel the heating element: should come warm pretty quic;
- Job done -

When you remove the screws securing the wire to the old element, make sure the wires are not cracked, or interrupted.

Otherwise, a real simple and easy fix.

Specs of this element are what I missed but here they are:
Resitence : 25.5 Ohms
Volts: 230 - 260Volst
Power : 2050 to 2650 Watts
The power depends on the voltage, so make sure you dont have it too low (less than 220 ) or too much (yeah, 260V is nearing upper limits)
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Replace door gasket on very old wall oven
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • r from SUNNYVALE, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Repair went a lot faster and easier than I anticipated. Instructions are similar to those posted by others.
1. Verify that new gasket looks mostly like old gasket as best you can since not all of old gasket is visible.
2. Shut off circuit to oven (optional, but good practice)
3. Remove racks, trays, etc from oven to red uce weight at Step 7
4. Remove oven door by partially opening door to broiler position (about 20 degrees). Door should catch and stay open on its own. Slide up and lift off door. The “hinges” are spring loaded so carefully return them to closed position so they won’t snap shut on fingers.
5. Remove Phillips screws, one on each side wall of oven liner.
6. Remove two hex screws and metal gasket-holder on top center of oven liner.
7. Pull and slide oven liner out of oven mainframe about 1/4 “ to 3/8”. This may be the most difficult part of the job.
8. If possible to remove just a couple of inches of one bottom of old gasket (right side is easiest), verify that the cross-section profile of both old and new gaskets are essentially the same. If not, you have the wrong gasket.
9. Pull and remove old gasket. If gasket is dry and cracking, it may be necessary to scrape it out with putty knife, flat-blade screwdriver, etc. if it has fused to metal over the years. Note how it was installed on the metal edge of the oven liner.
10. Locate the mid-point on the new gasket length and begin inserting it at the top-center of the oven liner where you removed the two hex screws. Continue installing along both left and right sides of the liner. Each end of the gasket should extend to just above the respective hinge. No trimming should be necessary. Ensure a snug fit all along each side and top.
11. Push liner back into oven mainframe. Replace Phillips screws, gasket-holder, and hex screws.
11. Pull out each hinge to broiler position.
12. Replace door by sliding down onto hinges. Close door and check for tight fit against gaskets. Gaskets will flatten somewhat over time
13. Restore power, racks, trays, etc.
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Bake element failed - it kind of broke open in one spot.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Rocco from Kenvil, NJ
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Due to this wall oven being vintage 1972, I decided to replace the broil element along with the bake element that had actually failed. The repair was pretty straight forward as seen on the videos, altough it can be somewhat tight to use screw drivers or nut drivers with long handles. You may find that shorty screw drivers or a 1/4 inch ratchet wrench and appropriate socket are easier to work with. There were two things that I was cautious about. The first was to be very gentle with the power wires since I didn't know what condition their insulation was in. I tried not to scrape them on the sheet metal opening as I pulled them gently out through the oven insulation. Secondly, I was very, very careful in moving the oven temperature sensor probe out of the way so I could undo the broil element. Before I started the job, I had learned that this probe isn't a separate piece part, it is part of the entire THERMOSTAT ASSEMBLY for the stove and it's not readily available. Furthermore, this assembly costs $250 to $350 !!!! The only negative with this job was that the old broil element has some kind of heat resistant material on the rear of the plate that attaches it to the oven wall. This old material fell apart during disassembly. I kind of pieced it back together during assembly, but I would have liked to have been told I needed this piece (since there wasn't an exploded parts view on the web for me to look at)or a new piece of this material should have been supplied as part of the broil element.
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Bake element stopped working. Oven was not getting hot.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Emilia from MODESTO, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Used socket set to remove bolts holding the elements in place, then used a screw driver to remove the wires from the elements. Replaced with new elements, screwed in the wires and reattached the elements to the wall with the bolts.
It was easy, it was just a small space to work in.
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All Instructions for the JF1601
1 - 15 of 134