JE2160BF02 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

After looking up on the computer a schematic of the unit, all that was needed was removing four screws to remove the top and side cover which was one piece.
Next was removal of electrical connection to burned out lamp, then removing burned out lamp and installing the new lamp and reconnecting electrical connection.
Job was complete after reinstalling the cover.

Microwave now working with new lamp lighting when in use.

First I ordered and replaced the diode. That did not help. Then I ordered both the magnetron and the thermostat magnetron because I didn't know what I was doing. After I replaced those, it still wouldn't heat. So I called an electrician. He noticed I had knocked a wire loose. I connected it and the microwave worked. I reconnected the old magnetron, just to test it. It didn't work. Then I put the new one back in. It's working just fine now! It took quite a while to put everything back in place because it was a built-in. But it was a lot cheaper than getting a new microwave, even with the cost of a repair man to show me I had a loose wire!

First, I read the PartsSelect DIY report by Linda, Warsaw, IN. With confidence, I purchased the magnetron. Upon receipt, I took the built-in microwave out of the cabinet, set the unit on the kitchen floor, and was stopped cold by the Safety Torx nuts on the reverse of the unit. Borrowing the right wrench allowed the 20 minute start-to-finish part changeout and reinstallation of the unit in the cabinet to proceed. The old magnetron was the defective part. Discovery of the 10-year Parts-Only warranty on the less than 10-year old unit was insufficinet to guide me to take the unit in for their Labor bill to repair. New part in hand, it just was that easy - and assumed to be no less expensive.

Thanks to great instructions from a previous person, this was super easy. It took 5 minutes to remove and replace the new motor. The big part of this job was cleaning out the cabinet where the microwave sits, since I had to take it out.

There is a 'door cover' pressed into the bottom of the microwave, that just has 6 small tabs that you need to cut. Then remove 1 screw, and the wire clip and the motor is changed. The door just reverses and re-installs with 1 screw. When the microwave was designed, this repair was in the engineers mind. So simple I couldn't beleive it.

First step was to discharge the transformer's capacitor (very important to do), before attempting any microwave repair. I opened the diagram/schematic found inside the microwave oven and followed the technician's troubleshooting steps; checked the capacitor; it checked OK, I checked the diode for a short, it checked OK. I checked the windings of the transformer that supply the power to the Magnetron; it checked Ok. I proceeded to order the parts; the Magnetron and the sensor located on the top part of the Magnetron. When the parts arrived; I went straight to the location of the Magnetron, I attached the new sensor on the new Magnetron and removed the old one. I connected the harness from the transformer to the new Magnetron and tested the microwave oven and it worked perfectly like a new one. This site has a great deal of information about repairs for the do it-yourself like myself, unlike other appliance's parts websites. Thumbs up to this site, I am very pleased with my order, I received it in a timely fashion as promised. I recommend it to everyone; this site is the best place to shop for appliances parts.

I detached the metal plate on the bottom of the microwave that once removed by cutting the metal tabs could then be turned around and put back in place with 1 screw. The old motor was easy to detach (1 screw) and unplug. Hardest part of the whole project was finding where to get a replacement motor so I'm glad I stumbled on your website. Once the part was received it took just a couple of minutes to replace and it works great.
My husband called about getting it serviced and was told it would be at least $100 just for labor, parts would be additional. I'm now an electronic goddess in his eyes....

Door microswith was stuck on. This is caused, I discovered, by frequently stopping the oven, while running, by opening the door rather than using the stop button. Causes the switch to arc and eventually fail. This causes the safety microswitch to trip the breaker when door is opened. There are little nubs sticking up on the spade connectors. You must squeeze them down before you can remove them from the switch. The main door switch is the upper one, mounted at an angle. You have to remove the latch assembly to remove the switch. The problem was obvious once I got the switch out. This problem could also blow the fuse, but in my case the breaker tripped first. Use an ohmmeter to check switch and fuse. The door switch is normally open. The safety switch is normally CLOSED. Instructions inside were helpful and described this problem. So, avoid this repair by always stopping oven with stop button!

I checked out the two posts here. The one that said that the Plexiglass and Stainless Steel snapped off as one unit didn't work for me. Tried gently to pry stainless trim but it didn't want to budge and I didn't want to force it.
The second advice about using a thin knife to run down behind the Plexiglass worked.There is some kind of adhesive that stays sticky that is right at the opening edge of the door so you just have to gently break through the stickiness seal. As noted, you can bend the panel out in the middle, grab it, and slide it out toward you.
Take the protective coating off the front of the replacement part and slide it in, bending it slightly in the middle so that, when it is fully in, you can push it against the sticky part to hold it in place.
This was real easy.
The hardest part was getting the part delivered without it getting scratched. It has a protective film on the front, but nothing protects the back and the Shipping Department insists on sending it out with nothing to protect the back from the bouncing around it gets in its oversized cardboard box. (no bubble wrap, no wrapping plastic, no peanuts).
The first one arrived with the back heavily scratched. The second try (I explained the problem but the second was shipped exactly the same way as the first) had only a couple of abrasions on the back so I settled for it.
Customer Service is excellent but someone should tell Shipping not to send out Plexiglass sheets without protecting both sides.

I happen to have a set of "security" screw driver tips which are required for this appliance - available for about $10 at Home Depot or Harbor Freight. Remove three security screws from back of housing, lift up and aft to remove the cover. The light is on the left in a "snap in" mounting so use a flat blade screw driver to push back the retainer and lift out the old bulb then disconnect the two "push on" wires and install the new light. Total time about 10 minutes. The only issue is the requirement for a security driver set.

easy to handle

removed 3 screws to take off outer housing ( did not have proper screw driver but was able to remove with pliers). used flat head screw driver to pry light socket w/bulb off of snap-in mounting & unplugged socket wire attachments. plugged in & reattached new part.

R & R - Remove old part,cleaned roller grove,Replaced old part with new one.Job done.

Open the shipping package the new roller guide comes in and removed it from the package. Open the microwave door and removed the glass turntable plate. Remove the broken roller guide ring and roller wheel/s. Clean the surface that the roller guide assembly rides on. Place the new roller guide assembly into the microwave. Clean the bottom surface of the glass turntable plate that the roller guide wheels ride on and put the plate back into the oven. Place a cup of water onto the turntable plate close the oven door and start the microwave. Looking through the door assure that the new roller guide assembly is rolling smoothly under the turntable plate. Stop the oven, remove the cup, reset the oven timer.

I unplugged the microwave and turned it over. It was easy to spot where the motor was located. I noticed the cover had little tabs holding it in place. I noticed it had brackets that could be snipped and the cover reversed so the little tabs and hole for the metal screw could be installed. I used snips and cut the little tabs and removed the cover. The motor had one screw and a tab that held it in place. I unplugged the motor first removed the screw and changed the motor. Then I plugged it into the wiring harness.The plastic piece for the turn table dropped out. I used pliers and straightened the tabs turned the plate over and put two small extensions in the slots and removed the metal screw and pushed the tabs in place and the metal screw through the hole and tightened. I then set the microwave in place and opened the door and pushed the plastic piece into its proper place. I then got a cup of water and heated it up.

On the bottom of Microwave I cut the 6 clips holding the cover in place with side cutters. Removed the one screw holding motor in place. Un plugged it. Plugged in new motor, replaced screw. Filed off sharp points of clips. Slid cover tabs into slots, put screw in cover. Replaced parts inside oven, turned it on, it worked.
I did this twice. The first time the plug fell inside the housing and I had to turn the microwave over to fish it out. So when I received new part I left it plugged in. I should make it clear I am talking about the plug to the motor not the one to the microwave. Of course I unplugged that before I even moved the microwave. Thanks to another customer and his repair story because I was dreading the chore of dismantling the entire microwave to get to the turn table motor. He made it so easy. Thank you for having the part and great instructions.