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JDP47WF2WW General Electric Range - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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Heating element was completely broken.
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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George from FREDERICKSBRG, VA
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Socket set
Removed old element with a socket wrench. Replaced new element with socket wrench. Pretty easy!
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The center element of the 2-stage electric burner failed.
2 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Robert from Cinnaminson, NJ
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
The cooktop is just set in the counter with no fasteners. I shut off the power and lifted the unit out. Ten small screws held the top to the body. After removal, I took a picture to have a wiring reference. I disconnected five wires with push-on terminals, then removed two Tinnerman nuts with needle-nose pliers. The failed burner was
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free to remove. There were two mounting ears on the bottom of the burner at positions 12 and 48 as stamped on the bottom. I transferred the mounting ears to the new burner, one screw each. I then positioned the new burner and secured with the two Tinnerman nuts, replaced the five wires, screwed the top back on and slipped the unit into the counter. Done.
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oven racks old and ugly
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Claudene from ORCUTT, CA
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
1. Open oven door
2. insert oven racks (perfect fit)
3. close oven door. Done and finished - man am I tired
2. insert oven racks (perfect fit)
3. close oven door. Done and finished - man am I tired
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Burned out
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Dean from Elkton, FL
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Remove two screws to loosen the ceramic top....prop top open and change part...the part was exactly the same...change wires from one to the other and transfer clamps.....1st grade craft class would have done it in half the time I did......you folks have your parts inventory and description application to a science.....God Bless
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Oven quit heating
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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LARRY from MOSELLE, MS
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Socket set
Disconnected power, removed two screws from bracket. Unplugged old element, installed new element and replaced screws in bracket. Restored power and back in business!
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The heating element failed for the oven. Broiler element continued to function.
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Steve from ANAHEIM, CA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
This is a pretty easy job. Took 20 min. because I was especially careful. Once the new element arrived, I simple shot off the power (DO THAT, BE SURE TO DO THAT ). Two 5/16 screws hold the element in place at the rear of the oven. Once removed the element can move forward. A surprise was that wires attached to the element come
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with it. There are simple push on connections on the element. There were a little difficult to remove (heat I am sure ), but a couple of needle nose plyers and the two wires removed with ease. Plug in the new element connectors and push the wires and the connection back into place. Once in place, reinstall the screws and test.
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Small burner of Dual Burner no longer would work.
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Jerry L from Palmetto, FL
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Pull out Range and unplug from wall receptacle. Open Range door and remove 2 hex head screws with pliers. Screws located at top inside of range door opening. They hold the burner top in place. Slowly lift front of top burner section up and at same time slightly lifting back of burner section since it rests on 2 pivots. Prop front of
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burner section open, tilted back, with a piece of 2X4 maybe 2 1/2 ft. long. Make sure the 2X4 is located at the front/middle of range [resting on insulation] and at front middle of burner top to keep it opened firmly and balanced. You have about 5 or 6 wire clips to remove from elec. posts. Use pliers to gently remove clips. Tag the wires with tape to remember which wires go onto the new burner. Or take a close up picture with your phone to remember which wires go where. There are 2 philips head screws holding clips that hold the burner in place. The clips are slipped into a slot to help hold them in place. Mark the 2 slots so that when you remove the clips you will remember which slots to put them back into. You will need to hold the burner with one hand while you are removing the last clip as it could just fall out. Remove old burner and install new burner at same angle as was the old burner. You will have to make sure that the 2 clips are in the slotted openings first as you can not put them in place after the burner is installed in the opening. Reinstall the 2 screws into the 2 clips. Hold the electrical pole fittings with one hand while you gently reattach the electrical clips with a set of pliers. You may need to wiggle the clips back and forth to get them on securely. Remove the 2X4 and gently lower the burner top. The hardest part is now you have to slightly lift the back of the burner top while the front is lifted up and maneuver the back to drop down over the 2 pivots. Then the burner top will drop down in place so that the 2 screws in the range door opening can be reinstalled. I don't know of an easy way of making the top of the burner section fall down over the pivots except trial and error. Maybe use a flashlight to look back where the pivots are located while the top is propped open. That may help you visually to see what you are trying to do.
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Burner didn't go on
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Mike from Hatfield, PA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Turned off juice
Pulled stove from wall
Unscrewed 2 screws to loosen range top
Lifted n propped top
Unplugged 4 wires
Unscrewed burner assembly
Installed burner-reversed steps to reassemble
Pulled stove from wall
Unscrewed 2 screws to loosen range top
Lifted n propped top
Unplugged 4 wires
Unscrewed burner assembly
Installed burner-reversed steps to reassemble
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Top oven not keeping baking temperature
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Donald from BUFORD, GA
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
Used a nut driver to remove element the insulation was tight and pulled the wires off before they came out of the oven. I made a small hook out of a coat hanger and pulled the wires through the opening.
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Bake and convection cycles quit working after a10 minutes
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Stephen from Zachary, LA
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
Unbolted temperature sensor from back of oven. Disconnect cable connector. Replaced and reconnected new sensor and bolted back in place. Haven’t had to replace bake element yet, but it’s a major job being this GE Profile oven has the bake element hidden. That’s a new one on me.
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Keypad gave an F7 error code
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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John from Charleston, SC
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
I learned that an F7 code on the GE Profile oven meant an error in the touchpad for the oven. A repair shop quoted $89.95 to just show up, and then unknown labor charges, and, if it was the touchpad, could replace that for >$120 in parts. I ordered the touchpad from Partselect, hoping it was indeed the touchpad that was faulty. It was in
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stock, shipped the next day, for $73 including shipping. It took about 5 minutes to replace the touchpad (at most), and disassembly/assembly was so easy it is not worth detailing; it is obvious. The replacement fixed the problem, and saved hundreds of dollars...
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burner didn't work
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Richard from Coon Rapids, MN
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
lift stove top, 2 undermount screws. Then unplug 4 wires, I did them 1 at a time plugging into new burner as I go so I wouldn't screw up. Take 2 screws out of old burner to stove top, # all around circle put screws in same # on new burner.Done Good experience all the way around. Order delivery and install
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Lower bake element was not working.
2 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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James from Miami, FL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Socket set
Simple job. Disconnected the power to the oven, removed the two screws holding the old lower element, pulled it out and disconnected the two electrical wires. Installed the new one by simply reversing the removal process. Very impressed with PartSelect on price and delivery. My local repair company wanted to charge me twice the price
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and a part delivery time three times longer. Will definitely use PS in future
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Remove back panel or access sensor, replace sensor and panel
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Mike from Glencoe, NM
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
Removed back panel, change out sensor
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The light inside the oven had burned out
3 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Catherine from SEATTLE, WA
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
... Read more />3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.
No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
... Read more />3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.
No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.
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