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JDP47CF2CC General Electric Range - Instructions
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Burner burned out
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Daniel from Norborne, MO
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Very easy. Unpluged range from outlet, took two screws from the front under side of the range top, raised cook top up, took off four wires from burner, removed two screws than holds burner on cook top, replaced with new burner, installed two screws that hold burner in place, installed the four wires to burner, lowered cook top back into
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place replaced two screws that hold cook top down, pluged back into outlet. DONE!
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Burner didn't go on
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Mike from Hatfield, PA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Turned off juice
Pulled stove from wall
Unscrewed 2 screws to loosen range top
Lifted n propped top
Unplugged 4 wires
Unscrewed burner assembly
Installed burner-reversed steps to reassemble
Pulled stove from wall
Unscrewed 2 screws to loosen range top
Lifted n propped top
Unplugged 4 wires
Unscrewed burner assembly
Installed burner-reversed steps to reassemble
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inner element not working
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Michael from BAY CITY, MI
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
opened oven door and removed two 1/4 " screws from range top. lifted range top and propped open like a car hood with a 1" diam dowel rod. marked on new element the wire color locations from old element and removed wires. removed the two small screws and clips that hold the element to the range top and removed element. Matched where the
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mounting screws locate to the new element. Installed new element in reverse order.
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shortage in wiring cause the housing to burn out
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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fred from PALM COAST, FL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Replaced new light housing.
Thanks to you guys for the prompt response
Thanks to you guys for the prompt response
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Burned out
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Dean from Elkton, FL
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Remove two screws to loosen the ceramic top....prop top open and change part...the part was exactly the same...change wires from one to the other and transfer clamps.....1st grade craft class would have done it in half the time I did......you folks have your parts inventory and description application to a science.....God Bless
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Oven quit heating
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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LARRY from MOSELLE, MS
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Socket set
Disconnected power, removed two screws from bracket. Unplugged old element, installed new element and replaced screws in bracket. Restored power and back in business!
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The heating element failed for the oven. Broiler element continued to function.
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Steve from ANAHEIM, CA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
This is a pretty easy job. Took 20 min. because I was especially careful. Once the new element arrived, I simple shot off the power (DO THAT, BE SURE TO DO THAT ). Two 5/16 screws hold the element in place at the rear of the oven. Once removed the element can move forward. A surprise was that wires attached to the element come
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with it. There are simple push on connections on the element. There were a little difficult to remove (heat I am sure ), but a couple of needle nose plyers and the two wires removed with ease. Plug in the new element connectors and push the wires and the connection back into place. Once in place, reinstall the screws and test.
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Small burner of Dual Burner no longer would work.
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Jerry L from Palmetto, FL
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Pull out Range and unplug from wall receptacle. Open Range door and remove 2 hex head screws with pliers. Screws located at top inside of range door opening. They hold the burner top in place. Slowly lift front of top burner section up and at same time slightly lifting back of burner section since it rests on 2 pivots. Prop front of
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burner section open, tilted back, with a piece of 2X4 maybe 2 1/2 ft. long. Make sure the 2X4 is located at the front/middle of range [resting on insulation] and at front middle of burner top to keep it opened firmly and balanced. You have about 5 or 6 wire clips to remove from elec. posts. Use pliers to gently remove clips. Tag the wires with tape to remember which wires go onto the new burner. Or take a close up picture with your phone to remember which wires go where. There are 2 philips head screws holding clips that hold the burner in place. The clips are slipped into a slot to help hold them in place. Mark the 2 slots so that when you remove the clips you will remember which slots to put them back into. You will need to hold the burner with one hand while you are removing the last clip as it could just fall out. Remove old burner and install new burner at same angle as was the old burner. You will have to make sure that the 2 clips are in the slotted openings first as you can not put them in place after the burner is installed in the opening. Reinstall the 2 screws into the 2 clips. Hold the electrical pole fittings with one hand while you gently reattach the electrical clips with a set of pliers. You may need to wiggle the clips back and forth to get them on securely. Remove the 2X4 and gently lower the burner top. The hardest part is now you have to slightly lift the back of the burner top while the front is lifted up and maneuver the back to drop down over the 2 pivots. Then the burner top will drop down in place so that the 2 screws in the range door opening can be reinstalled. I don't know of an easy way of making the top of the burner section fall down over the pivots except trial and error. Maybe use a flashlight to look back where the pivots are located while the top is propped open. That may help you visually to see what you are trying to do.
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Repair was slow, due to replacement part was incorrect. Original part had two spring loaded spacers, & holes for them to sit in. The replacement part did not have holes. I was able to drill two holes to make it work.
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Victor from FAYETTEVILLE, GA
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Turned off power. Opened range door, removed 2 screws that held top in place. Took a photo of the existing wiring for reference. Removed old burner. Be careful with spacers & springs. If dropped, they will be hard to locate in the insulation. Replaced wiring connectors & verified proper location with photo. Closed cover, replaced 2 scr
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ews & turned on circuit breaker.
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Heating element was completely broken.
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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George from FREDERICKSBRG, VA
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Socket set
Removed old element with a socket wrench. Replaced new element with socket wrench. Pretty easy!
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Small element in center burned into(inoperative
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Douglas from Gravette, AR
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
1.Move range in position to access electrical wall disconnect and unplug. 2.Remove two 5/16 screws (located under top fwd. edge of cook top, Lift entire top assy up from front and prop with appropriate device(short 2x4 about18 inches long works well) 3.Remove two small phillips screws securing two metallic keeper devices holding burner a
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ssy in place. This should allow burner assy to be removed.4.Disconnect electrical spade connectors from ceramic terminal blocks on old burner assy.CAUTION: [SPADE CONNECTORS FIT TIGHTLY DO NOT PULL ON WIRES USE PRYING FORCE WITH FLAT SCREWDRIVER DIRECTLY ON TERMINAL].Remove connectors one at a time re-connecting to same location on new assy. Reassemble in reverse order.
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burner would switch to full power randomly
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Richard from SIMSBURY, CT
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Remove the top back panel to expose the switch. Remove the switch knob & mounting bezel and then unscrew the 2 mounting screws from the front. Replace the wires one by one and follow the enclosed directions in the event that this is an upgrade for an older switch. Remount the switch from the front and replace the back panel.
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The center element of the 2-stage electric burner failed.
2 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Robert from Cinnaminson, NJ
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
The cooktop is just set in the counter with no fasteners. I shut off the power and lifted the unit out. Ten small screws held the top to the body. After removal, I took a picture to have a wiring reference. I disconnected five wires with push-on terminals, then removed two Tinnerman nuts with needle-nose pliers. The failed burner was
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free to remove. There were two mounting ears on the bottom of the burner at positions 12 and 48 as stamped on the bottom. I transferred the mounting ears to the new burner, one screw each. I then positioned the new burner and secured with the two Tinnerman nuts, replaced the five wires, screwed the top back on and slipped the unit into the counter. Done.
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Oven not heating
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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David from HIGHLAND, UT
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
Removed element. Ordered new one. Installed it.
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Dual burner only had hidden setting.
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Steve from HENDERSON, TX
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
Removed old switch, put metal jumper from old switch to new one and connected wires to the new one . Reinstalled. Works great.
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