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JDP36BD2CT General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the JDP36BD2CT
46 - 60 of 371

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Lower heating element cracked
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Craig from Dayton, OH
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Socket set
Followed the video directions on your website - GREAT INFORMATION. Everything went very smoothly It took me longer to find my work light (after turning off the electric to the oven) out in the garage than it did to complete the repair!! SUPER PLEASED - WOULD NOT HESITATE TO RECOMMEND THIS COMPANY TO ANY DIY ADVENTURER!!
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Two sockets for electric elements and their end terminals were badly burned.
4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Marco from Santa Barbara, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
0) Take the back cover of the range off.
1) Carefully noted how the wires and the sockets were connected.
2) Visually checked that the new parts were practically identical old ones.
3) Put together the new sockets from the parts in the kit.
4) disconnect the old sockets and put the new sockets in place.
5) For eac h unit disconnect one old wire at the time and connect the new wire. Repeat the same for second wire.
6) Neatly bunch together the rest of the wires with electrical tape. Do not cut the wires!

That's it! It took about 20-30 minutes.
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Oven Light Assembly damaged
5 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jose from Frederick, MD
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
I have a double oven and coincidently I had to replace the two Oven Light Assemblies.
I am really glad about your web site because once I got the number from my oven model you guys were the first ones that came up. Thanks to your prompt and reliable service my oven is back to its original state.

Jose Figueroa
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burner wouldn't heat up
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Saratoga Springs, NY
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
pulled out the stove,,unhooked the power cord from outlet. I then pulled the control knob off and removed the the six screws from the back panel. I then removed the two screws the were under the knob and removed switch from panel..I unhooked the wires one at a time and rehooked them to the new switch,,pushed the switch back in the panel a nd installed the two screws. The knob was different from the shaft on the new switch so I took my dremel and contoured the shaft to fit my switch. I plugged the stove back into the outlet and it worked perfect..
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Oven door handle broke
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William from Bartlett, TN
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Had to take back off of the door to get to screw that held the broken piece of handle before installing the new part. Then had to put the back on the door and slip the door into place.
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F2 error code when oven was set at a higher temperature.
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Rachele from OCEANSIDE, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Socket set
I pretty much followed the youtube video posted under the part that I needed. Turned off electricity to that area of the house. Unplugged stove. Took out the old sensor, pushed new sensor cord through the back hole. I did put a small amount of tape,so I could pull it through from the back better. It was impossible to get the clip discon nected in the back and the new clip didn't match up correctly anyway. Ended up having to cut the wires and strip them. I twisted them together and put on the ceramic wire nuts on. Reversed ever thing I did and F3 appeared. Looked that code up on internet. It was from an open or shorted oven. Suggested I check the connections. Pulled stove out again, unscrewed caps on wires and noticed the sensor's wire had another cloth type coating on it. I gentle cut that off, twisted and capped wires again. Plugged in oven, turn on electricity, and tried out stove. Everything is working just fine. Everything took a little longer because this was first time doing this type of repair.
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the old screws were not correct so it took 1/2 hour for me to find screws that would. there should have been proper screws sent with the end cap.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • anthony from Jacksonville, FL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
I attached the end caps to my existing handle, but had to squeeze the parts together very hard to get them to mesh to the correct distance of the holes. I removed the screws holding outside frame of the oven door. I then opened the door fully, propping it up on my knee and removed the inside end cap screws. Placing the handle in positi on underneath the propped door, I attached the screws. Lastly I reassembled the door.
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Broken end cap
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jan from todd, NC
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
The end cap was completly broke off to replace just fit cap ove end and screwed into place.
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Alarm would sound whenever oven turned on - with an error message code
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Carolyn from MASON, MI
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Watched the video on the PartSelect site. Could not have been an easier repair and I saved the cost of a service call - probably saved at least $100 - $150 in service call and I can only guess what the labor cost would have been. Will use this business again for other appliance repairs on my older stove, washer, etc. By the way - the o fficial Kenmore site said this part was no longer made and unavailable --- Thank you PartSelect for having the part and saving me the cost of buying a new stove!
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broke
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Barbara from Winston Salem, NC
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
just replace the end cap with a new one all that was involue was to screw the new one in took about ten minutes and job done better than buying a new stove when the stove is still just like new. thank you for your on line help.
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Handle broke
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dean from Harrisonburg, VA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Took off the inside ( this allowed me to clean the glass) panel. Removed the two end parts with a screw driver. Replace the parts and we were good to go.
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lights blown out
6 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gerald from WINTERVILLE, GA
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer
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broken light cover
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Francis from LAKE ELSINORE, CA
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
twisted it in place
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It was burned out
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • lan from SANTA CLARA, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
I just follow Steve's Installation Vidio. My range works.
Thanks Steve
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Terminal block connectors worn out wasn’t making a good connection with the stove top burner
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lance from HAHIRA, GA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
Cut 4 inch’s off the new terminal block wires then using my wire strippers stripped 1/2 inch off the ends , the old terminal block wires I stripped 1/2 inch at the ends using a wire nuts on both wires and electrical tape connected the terminal block to the stove plugged the new burner in and the burner worked 100%.
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All Instructions for the JDP36BD2CT
46 - 60 of 371