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JCSP38WK4WW General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the JCSP38WK4WW
61 - 75 of 282

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Oven control panel shorted while remove a broken lightbulb from the oven
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Terry from SEATTLE, WA
  • Very Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
I removed the new control panel from its packaging and noticed that the button overlay was not included. I grabbed a putty knife and carefully loosened the adhesive on the old panel and was able to apply it to the new control panel. After installing it I looked up the number of my old panel on the included paperwork and simply entered the “profile” number after powering up the new one and It worked perfectly. I was very relieved to not have to buy a new range!
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One of the drawer supports broke off
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Sandy Hook, CT
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
I pulled out the drawer and inserted the new support. This one inserts into the back of the drawer as opposed to the sides. I had ordered two of the replacements even though I only needed one and decided to replace both. I think it was a good move as the drawer works better than when we first got it. Just one simple screw made it com plete.
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Oven slow to heat.
6 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Scott from Burleson, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
First I removed the 4 screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches. I removed the sensor and disconnected the connector.
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Burner at full red hot power despite setting
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Matt from TAZEWELL, VA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
After removing power from the range, I pulled the unit out for better access to the rear. I carefully pulled all four knobs off the front of the control panel. Next, using a short phillips screwdriver, I removed two screws from the front bottom of the control panel. On the rear of the control panel, there are four screws to loosen, now th e whole panel is free to remove toward the front of the unit. The burner switches are held onto the panel with two screws that are located on the front under where the knob had been. The wires are all connected to the switch with crimp type connectors. These are on tight, but can be removed carefully with pliers. Before doing so, I took a picture on my phone to ensure I replaced the wires in the correct order. Everything goes back together in reverse order. This is a good time to clean behind and under the whole stove. The whole process took around 20 minutes.
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Burnt Broiler Element
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • ROBERT P. from Santa Fe,, NM
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Just like everyone else it was a simple r&r. However, when removing or installing wire clips I make it a habit to hold the ends with needle nose to prevent any: "snap!" ooops! However to prevent burning the element in the first place, it is strongly suggested to push that broil button twice so that it is set to low temp. It is too easy to use the high setting which will shorten the elements life by 40 - 60 %. Also, keep the oven door partially open when using the broiler. Like the manual tells you!!!
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terminal was broken due to maney uses
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Emmett J from Winchester, VA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
unscrew the terminal block,pulled the old wires out,installed the new wires installed the new block
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old blackened oven racks
8 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Roger from Falls Church, VA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Replaced old with new.
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oven would not heat
5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jim from Williamsburg, VA
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
I removed the 4 hex head screws holding the control panel , then the other 4 slotted screws. Disconnected all wires being careful to keep track of the color coding. Had a little trouble with the adhesive holding the face plate( I don't know why they even used it). Put the new panel in and reconnected it. Re set circuit breaker and tried t he oven. It still wouldn't heat. it wasn't the control panel, but a burned out wire connecting the element in the back of the oven. Well, anyway I learned how to do the job and the the new panel activates better, so all was not lost.
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Hole In Back Was Too Small
5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lloyd from Hemphill, TX
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
I had to cut about 1/4 in. Off the top part of the back hold so the bakeing element would set on the bottom of the oven. Everything else went okay.
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Broker inner glass
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • marc from PARK RIDGE, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Very easy to remove the parts and to reassemble
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OVEN CLOCK CONTROL MALFUNCTIONED
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gregoire from N CHESTERFLD, VA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
I turned off the circuit breaker and unplugged the stove. I removed the back panel and marked the location of the wires on the new oven clock control. I detached the wires and removed the old card. I installed the new one and reconnected the wires. I plugged the stove and turned on the circuit breaker. All the lights came on and the oven worked fine. I reinstalled the back panel and it took me less than thirty minutes to complete the job.
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Two sockets for electric elements and their end terminals were badly burned.
4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Marco from Santa Barbara, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
0) Take the back cover of the range off.
1) Carefully noted how the wires and the sockets were connected.
2) Visually checked that the new parts were practically identical old ones.
3) Put together the new sockets from the parts in the kit.
4) disconnect the old sockets and put the new sockets in place.
5) For eac h unit disconnect one old wire at the time and connect the new wire. Repeat the same for second wire.
6) Neatly bunch together the rest of the wires with electrical tape. Do not cut the wires!

That's it! It took about 20-30 minutes.
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Inner glass assembly had cracked
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from Gorham, ME
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Socket set, Wrench set
Took the oven door off and removed the inner door panel, put new glass assembly part in and reassembled. The hard part was getting the door hinges locked back into place.
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F2 Warning - Oven overheating
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • john from bend, OR
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
I checked various sites on the net and decided that the temperature sensor was the problem. The GE price for the replacement part was about $105, most of the other sites offered the sensor in the $70 range. PartSelect $12.95 When the part arrived, I removed a small self taping screw, pulled the high temperature wire connector into th e oven space, disconnected the quick disconnect fitting, attached the new temperature sensor, pushed the connecting wire into its hole, replaced the screw and that was it. I probably saved about $200 in parts and labor over what a local repairman would have charged. Oh yes!! I first disconnected the power at the breaker box. Very important.
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The burner bowls were burnt through and nasty looking.
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Isabel from The Colony, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I carefully removed the burners, removed the bowls and replaced them with the new ones. Easy as pie!
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All Instructions for the JCSP38WK4WW
61 - 75 of 282