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JCS968BF2BB General Electric Range - Instructions
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Small element in center burned into(inoperative
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Douglas from Gravette, AR
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
1.Move range in position to access electrical wall disconnect and unplug. 2.Remove two 5/16 screws (located under top fwd. edge of cook top, Lift entire top assy up from front and prop with appropriate device(short 2x4 about18 inches long works well) 3.Remove two small phillips screws securing two metallic keeper devices holding burner a
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ssy in place. This should allow burner assy to be removed.4.Disconnect electrical spade connectors from ceramic terminal blocks on old burner assy.CAUTION: [SPADE CONNECTORS FIT TIGHTLY DO NOT PULL ON WIRES USE PRYING FORCE WITH FLAT SCREWDRIVER DIRECTLY ON TERMINAL].Remove connectors one at a time re-connecting to same location on new assy. Reassemble in reverse order.
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Burner not working
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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LUIS from CONCORD, MA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
First, disconnect electrical power to the stove by turning the main fuse to the off position. Confirm that there is no electrical power in the stove. The ceramic top is held by 10 screws that are closest to the ceramic surface. Other screws hold other parts of the stove and not need to be touched when opening the stove. Once the ceram
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ic surface is off there is access to the burners and the various lights and switches. It is important to determine whether it is the burner that is defective or the switch. Inasmuch as the switch has many moving parts, the switch is more likely to be the defective part. Check the switch by gaining access to the switch connections. There is a metal frame held by two screws on each side in the outside of the stove (same area where the initial 10 screws were removed to separate the ceramic surface). Remove these screws and flip the switch assembly so all the wires and cables are accessible. I checked the switch with a continuity tester and by trial and error determined that there were two connections that in all the remainder three switches had continuity when the switch was in the on position while the suspect switch did not. Replaced the suspect switch by pulling the wires and replacing them in identical positions in the new switch (a smartphone camera became very useful to remind me were exactly each cable's connection was). Restore power by turning the fuse to the on position. Check that the burner lights up. If not, change the burner as well. Same simple procedure of disconnecting and connecting cables to the burner). Make sure to disconnect power before working on the burner. Replace the screws that hold the switch assembly. Replace the ceramic top. Replace the screws. Set stove back in its hole. Reset fuse. Total time: 35 mins. Total cost: Approx $25.00 (switch + delivery). Quoted repair by local appliance repair service: $487.50. No contest. Next project is to fix a leaky water dispenser in the refrigerator.
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Burned out
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Dean from Elkton, FL
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Remove two screws to loosen the ceramic top....prop top open and change part...the part was exactly the same...change wires from one to the other and transfer clamps.....1st grade craft class would have done it in half the time I did......you folks have your parts inventory and description application to a science.....God Bless
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Plastic guide Broken
9 of 25 people
found this instruction helpful.
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NICK from Vernon, CA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
replaced Plastic Guides
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Replaced cracked inner oven door glass
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Sherry from SAINT PAUL, MN
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Screw drivers
This went pretty smoothly. Watch the video and just follow along step-by-step and it goes well. It would have only taken about 30-45 minutes (even being careful and slow) but I ended up placing the glass twice (be very careful and triple check that all the insulation gets poked under the housing and none is sticking out). The first time I
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had a small piece sticking out. (Use gloves for this part so your hands don't itch). The second time I needed to redo part of it is I forgot one of the spacers on the door handle and had to get that in there so the handle worked properly. I also took the time to clean the oven while the door was off so that took some time. Total I probably had 1.5-2 hours into this project but at least half of that was me cleaning and being fussy. This is an easy repair. I'm not a confident repair person and this wasn't difficult. It was a little time consuming but well worth the cost vs calling a repair person or buying a new appliance. You do need to have a specialty star head on a screwdriver but my simple tool kit had all the tools I needed. The oven has been working great since the repair.
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burner would switch to full power randomly
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Richard from SIMSBURY, CT
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Remove the top back panel to expose the switch. Remove the switch knob & mounting bezel and then unscrew the 2 mounting screws from the front. Replace the wires one by one and follow the enclosed directions in the event that this is an upgrade for an older switch. Remount the switch from the front and replace the back panel.
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Remove and replace Broil (upper) heating element.
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Russell from ARROYO GRANDE, CA
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
Turn off the power to the oven. (There should be a circuit breaker in the main power panel dedicated to just the oven) (the oven should be cool to the touch).
Open and remove the door by pulling it up and off the hinges (this is best accomplished with a helper).
Remove the racks (wire shelves).
Remove the two 1/4" mount ... Read more ing screws that secure the heating element to the back and the two screws that secure the element to the top of the oven..
Gently pull the wires out and disconnect them from the heating element.
Now reverse the process.
Connect the wires to the new heating element in the same fashion as they came off.
Push the wires and heating element back in place and secure with the four screws.
Replace the wire racks (shelves).
Replace the door (again, this is best accomplished with a helper).
Turn the power back on.
Run a test of the broiler to make sure the repair was completed properly.
voila!
Open and remove the door by pulling it up and off the hinges (this is best accomplished with a helper).
Remove the racks (wire shelves).
Remove the two 1/4" mount ... Read more ing screws that secure the heating element to the back and the two screws that secure the element to the top of the oven..
Gently pull the wires out and disconnect them from the heating element.
Now reverse the process.
Connect the wires to the new heating element in the same fashion as they came off.
Push the wires and heating element back in place and secure with the four screws.
Replace the wire racks (shelves).
Replace the door (again, this is best accomplished with a helper).
Turn the power back on.
Run a test of the broiler to make sure the repair was completed properly.
voila!
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Lower Oven Broiler Stopped Working
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Frank from PARKER, CO
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
Turned power off to oven
Unscrewed broiler nuts (total of 4)
Pulled Broiler out from back of stove
Disconnected wires
Reconnected wire
Remounted broiler and replaced bolts
Turned power back on
Unscrewed broiler nuts (total of 4)
Pulled Broiler out from back of stove
Disconnected wires
Reconnected wire
Remounted broiler and replaced bolts
Turned power back on
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cooktop switch broken
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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kathleen from Wynantskill, NY
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
Really easy. Part came in rapid time and was the right part. Went on web and got instructions with video how to install.
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Dual burner only had hidden setting.
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Steve from HENDERSON, TX
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
Removed old switch, put metal jumper from old switch to new one and connected wires to the new one . Reinstalled. Works great.
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Light bulb went out,could not find replacement part.
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Gregory from Pearl River, LA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Turn the glass enclosure counterclockwise to expose bulb.Turn the power off at circuit breaker panel.Handle the bulb carefully with paper towel covering the bulb.Push the bulb in socket.replace glass enclosure,turn power back on.
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small (inner) burner was not 'burning'
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jerry from Tierra Verde, FL
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
turn off the power at the breaker first
remove the 2 screws under the 'lip' of the stove top (open the oven door to get to them)
prop up the stove top on the cardboard box the part came in
pull off the wires one by one and attach to the new burner OR record where each wire goes first
remove the ... Read more old burner (2 screws) and attach the new burner
screw down the stove top
try the burner - when it does not work flip the power breaker back on and then try again
bask in the joy, admiration and wonder directed your way by various family members
remove the 2 screws under the 'lip' of the stove top (open the oven door to get to them)
prop up the stove top on the cardboard box the part came in
pull off the wires one by one and attach to the new burner OR record where each wire goes first
remove the ... Read more old burner (2 screws) and attach the new burner
screw down the stove top
try the burner - when it does not work flip the power breaker back on and then try again
bask in the joy, admiration and wonder directed your way by various family members
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only the inner/smaller part of the dual burner is working
2 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Albert from South Boston, VA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
I ordered a new burner assuming As is turns out: nothing wrong with the burner.
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cooktop inner ring did not work
1 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Matthew from Lexington Park, MD
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Dear PartSelect:
I am very impressed by your service and company. My order arrived in less than 24 hours. It was a perfect match and is currently in service. I am very satisfied with the entire experience and will use your company again.
I simply opened up the cooktop with a screwdriver and disconnected the wire ... Read more s to the affected burner. After the part arrived, I reconnected them. I had to swap over two brackets from the old burner, so don't throw it away until the new one arrives. It went back together very easily and worked immediately.
Matt Brennan
I am very impressed by your service and company. My order arrived in less than 24 hours. It was a perfect match and is currently in service. I am very satisfied with the entire experience and will use your company again.
I simply opened up the cooktop with a screwdriver and disconnected the wire ... Read more s to the affected burner. After the part arrived, I reconnected them. I had to swap over two brackets from the old burner, so don't throw it away until the new one arrives. It went back together very easily and worked immediately.
Matt Brennan
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Oven will not heat
1 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Joseph from Homosassa, FL
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
As many people have encountered, my oven would not heat but the igniter would be bright orange and glow! Over time, the igniter wears and degrades causing oxidation to the surface. This cause the igniter to fail and operate at a lower current level, below 2.8 amps! Normal igniters operator over 3.0 to 3.1 amps. When is happens, a low c
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urrent igniter does not have enough input to the control valve to tell the valve to open to allow gas to flow over the igniter to light the oven, thus heat the oven! This has got to be the NUMBER one reason for an oven not heating!
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