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JCGS650SEF1SS General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the JCGS650SEF1SS
46 - 60 of 294

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Oven Light Stays On
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • MaryAnn from CAMDEN, TN
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
When this happens the plunger switch has to be replaced. This is a small plug like piece that has 4 plug in wires.

So you first unplug the range from the wall outlet. Then remove the oven door off the hinges ( see owners manual for removal ) then you take the right side panel off and there you will see the plunger switch. Bef ore removing the old switch make sure you plug the new one in exactly like the old one. I laid the old one next to the new one and plug them in one at a time. Its a little tricky unplugging them . After a few tries I figured it out. You have to use your thumb and finger and press and pull up by where the wire plugs in. Before putting back together you may want to test the new switch. Plug range back in wall outlet push the black piece that sticks out from switch and if the oven light goes out its fixed. Unplug from wall while reassembling side panel and door. I can say this do it yourself saves a lot of money not having a repairman fix it.
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The eye would not light
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Solomon A from COLLEGE PARK, GA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
Remove the existing burner and install the replacement.
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Oven would not light
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • WAYNE from HAMMOND, NY
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Tested for power to the igniter, (had power) so I knew it must have been the igniter that had failed. Removed two screws that held the shield in place, remove two screws that hold the igniter and disconnect the plug form the igniter, replace with new igniter.
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Oven wouldn't heat
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William from South Bristol, ME
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
In general, other repair stories on this site collectively give a good description of the repair process. My words concern the decision that has to be made as to which element is bad - igniter or gas valve. To reach a conclusion about this question, I was comforted by the fact that I could measure the AC electric current through the ga s valve which then let me decide that my problem was in the igniter. Since the circuit is a simple series with three elements, thermostat, igniter, and valve and the resistance of the valve unit was 1.0 to 1.2 ohms (per GE range equipment instruction which came with the range) by measuring the AC volts across the valve, I found (by dividing the volts AC across the gas valve (2.3 volts) by the resistance of the valve mechanism (1.0 ohms) that my old igniter was only supplying 2.3 AC amperes (instruction sheet states 2.9 amps. is needed to actuate the valve and further while heating of the oven is occurring the valve AC current will raise to 3.2 to 3.6 amps.). At 2.3 amps. the igniter will glow at a yellow color but will not actuate the valve. When you replace the old igniter with a new one you will enjoy to measure voltage across the gas valve once again and discover that the voltage rises to 2.9 volts and that the gas turns on and the heater tube gas is ignited.
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Oven wouldn't heat
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Erin from San Diego, CA
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
I let my brother do the actual installation but it only look about 15 min. I did look at the website of the appliance manufacturer first and then came to this website. The cost of the part I needed was almost half as much as the other site. When I saw that someone with the same oven model number and had the same problem and was able to fi x it, I decided to order here. It came quickly and my oven now works.
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Oven would smell like natural gas odor , burner slow to come on
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Raymond from LAKEFIELD, MN
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Replaced the flat style oven igniter. First, I watched the video on your web site, and used it as a reference to make the repair. I did remove the oven door tho, as it made it easier to complete the work, the video didn't show the door being removed. The video was very helpful.
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Burner had uneven flames
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Akshay from Bridgeton, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Too easy a five year old could do it
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Oven would not heat to the degree you set it for
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • MARY from BIG LAKE, MN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
I first took out the screw which held the bottom plate for the oven. then took the screws off the igniter unhooked the wires , took the new igniter hooked up the wires then put the screws back in put the bottom plate back in and turned the oven on to test it and it worked great.
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Bottom part of the Drawer Glider broke off on both sides of the drawer.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William from SPOKANE, WA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Remove the draw from the stove. Then unscrew two Phillips Head screws ( one on each side). Remove the old gliders. Slip in the new gliders. Screw the two phillis head screws back in. Make sure when you put the drawer back in the stove that you lift the front of the drawer up enough that the lower portion of the new glider is engaged on t he side rail of the oven drawer space.
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Part will wear out after a couple of years
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from Mt Solon, VA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
In my case it was the lower burner so I unplugged oven and turned gas off.
Then I removed the bottom drawer, and the lower burner cover.
Next unplug Oven Igniter, found where drawer existed.
Removed 2 screws attaching Igniter using nutdriver
Placed new Igniter on
Plug Igniter in and tested oven
Replace burn er cover and drawer


This was much easier then what I went through with a repair man the first time around. These Igniter are designed for certain model stoves and are not interchangable with other model stoves!!!
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Gas burner wasn’t burning properly
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Karin from ARUNDEL, ME
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I ordered the new burner head and replaced it and now it works perfectly.
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Igniter was glowing but would not light the oven.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gary from ROCKY POINT, NC
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Step 1 pull the broiler completely out of the bottom of the oven. Step 2 unplug the igniter Step 3 remove 3 small screws to pull the burner tube completely out of the oven. Step 4 replace the igniter and repeat steps to install burner tube back into the oven.
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oven would not get hot
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Paul from GATE CITY, VA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
ordered over the phone a new temp sensor. Un plug the oven, take off the back, open oven and unscrew the temp sensor, pull the sensor until the elec connector clip comes through so you can unclip the old sensor, clip on the new then pull the line back and re attach the sensor to the ovn. Plug in the oven.
Pretty simple, just hard t o work inside the oven. I unclipped the sensor line outside the oven to make sure it would come apart first before I was working inside the oven.
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burner had hot spots where the matieral melted some cause a distorted flame that would spit sputter
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dan from WARROAD, MN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Remove the top grate and remove the top burner plate and then pull the burner out and remove the torx screw and adapter install onto the new burner and place back on the stove , good to go.
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Gas Broiler Igniter didn't work. Broiler would not come on
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Guilford, CT
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Pulled the gas stove out so that I could shut off the gas valve and unplug the power cord. Job was made easier by removing the oven door (which just slides out). I took the 2 screws out that held the old igniter in place. Went to the rear of the range where there was a small 3"X2" electrical cover for the igniter, and disconnected the wire leads from the wiring harness. I then pulled the old igniter out through the oven front. Fed the new igniter wires through the back of the range and plugged the new igniter in. Reinstalled the electrical cover in the back of the range, attached the 2 -1/4" screws to reinstall the igniter inside the broiler. Put back the oven door. Turned the gas valve back on and sprayed on a soapy solution to check for gas leaks. Plugged the electrical cord back in. Pushed range back in place, Turned broiler on. Wait for a few seconds till the gas comes back thru the line. Works great Our stove was a GE Profile Gas Range. The part number for the igniter is WB13K21. We are very satisfied. Jim
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All Instructions for the JCGS650SEF1SS
46 - 60 of 294