EasyApplianceParts is now PartSelect! We've merged our sites to provide a better shopping experience for you.   Full Details
✖

Find Parts

Parts Departments

Top Model Types

Top Brands

Repair Help

Expert Repair Videos

Keep typing for more specific results...

JCBS650ST1WW General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the JCBS650ST1WW
76 - 90 of 114

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
The electronic board controls failed to illuminate or work after very strong power surge associated with lightening. The stove top burners still worked fine but not the clock and controlls for the oven.
  • Leon from Cullowhee, NC
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
I found a video on Youtube with a similar circuit board repair and decided that I could probably do it. First and most important is to be certain the range is disconnected from its electric circuit. I did this by turning off the breaker at the electrical panel and then unplugging the range. Second, I removed a panel (four screws) on the back of my stove to expose the circuit board, Next I removed the board (four screws) without disconnecting the wiring. Then I removed the flexible plastic covering from the board which has the control button identities on it. This was the most difficult part because the glue was very sticky and I did not want to tear the cover. After removal, I stuck the plastic covering (still sticky) onto the new circuit board and made sure the buttons were in the correct position. Then, I unplugged the wires one at a time from the old circuit board and made sure I plugged them into the new board in the correct position. Finally, I reattached the new board and the back panel on the stove. This repair was easy and no problem for the average "do it yourself" type.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Right front burner not getting hot
  • Cory from Honesdale, PA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
After searching the internet for a cause for the burner not getting hot it looked as though it was the burner switch. I ordered the switch and installed it. Behold it still did not work. I then ordered the burner, installed it and it worked. So I had a 50/50 chance as to which part was the problem. This was my first stove repair and I found it easy to do. Finding something to hold up the ceramic cooktop took the most time. I cut a piece of wood to prop it up while I replaced the burner.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Burner Would Not Turn Off
  • BILLY from WEBSTER, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
Replace control switch
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
oven continued to get F2, F3 and F5 error messages when ovewn got hot
  • Ralph from Redding, CA
  • Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
This repair was quite a bit more difficult then what had been described on the web site. First off, I have a double wall oven that is built in. Sliding it out of the cabinet was difficult and because oven was hard wired, I had to disconnect the actual wiring from the oven back. . Positioning the oven and allowing for it to rest on a s upport bench was the most difficult part The oven is heavy. Eventually, removing the back and top panels of the oven revealed the sensor connection. I was then able to feed it through the oven and reconnect all the wiring harnesses.. Getting the oven back in the cabinet was equally a challenge. But it did seem to fix the problem with over heating.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Open Switch
  • John from Denham Springs, LA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Pull knob. Pull wires. Pull two screws. Replace switch
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Oven light wire broken, damaged socket
  • Patricia from Brandenburg, KY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Remove light bail, glass cover held by two nut screws. Pull socket, removed clips in back, replaced wire connectors, placed new socket in, then glass cover and bail. Wire connected in back, cover plate replaced.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
clock, over control, oven light , timer did not work
  • Robert from Austin, AR
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
remove rear panel cover, removered four screws that held control panel, disconnected colored wires, removed circuit control board, reinstall new board and connected color coded wire to the correct spot on the board, plugged in 220 volt cord, switch on circuit breaker, everything worked normal again
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Orange light "Hot Stovetop" lense broke off.
  • John from Woodbridge, VA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Parts arrived in record time and the right parts. The detailed diagram was so helpful in finding exactly the part I needed to order. Was so easy my girlfriend with no mechanical or electrical experience completely helped me through the entire project. She secured the electrical breaker to the range, and I had the top back to the oven r emoved. I showed her how the little white box simply slides off the lens cover, then replaced the new one in the holes and slide it back on. Secured the back and she turned on the breaker back on...and all lights work. Thanks for making this project easy, simple and quick.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Bad control board
  • Daryl from Savannah, TN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Removed top back plate of oven. unpluged all of the wiring plugs on the control board. Removed two screws on the control board. Removed face plate from old control board and put it on the new control board. Atteched new board with the two screws. Connected all of the plugs to new board ( all plugs are color coded to board). Re-installed o ven back plate. Pluged oven in. Works great.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
prior knobs were discolored and ugly
  • Barbara from Sun City West, AZ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
just purchased new knobs. The price was great, just took a little longer to receive then anticipated though.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Plastic glide broke
  • Mary Ann from Granby, CT
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
The person I spoke to knew exactly what I was trying to describe. The part arrived in 2 days. 5 minutes later the drawer was back in place. I was glad I save the screw as the part did not come with one.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Replacment of burner control switches
  • Judith from Keezletown, VA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
I watched your video on the subject and followed it exactly. It explained everything I needed to know. The hardest part was CLEANING under the stove once I pulled it out from the wall!
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Range top burners work, but Oven would not. Click flashed and made a clicking noise when trying to turn on the oven, but shut off
  • James from Hope Mills, NC
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
My Range had the issue I mentioned here. I put off the repairs for a long time, but Thanksgiving was around the corner and we needed a working oven. I had made a previous call to repair man and was quoted $75.00 for a service call to come and check the issue. Before calling a repair man back, I decided to pull the rear cover off the range to see how complicated it would be to repair. I removed the rear cover and found that everything was connected to this "Oven Electronic Control" except for the top elements (explaining why they still worked and the oven didn't). This made it seem that this part would surely have to be causing the issue. I did a search on Google and found this company and the part that I needed. The cost of the part was less than the service call for a repair man would have been. I ordered the part and paid for next day delivery. The part shipped on Monday and arrived on Tuesday. For the installation, I had to identify the wiring because the connector layout was a little different. When I looked closely I found that the terminals were numbered the same as the old part. I replaced wire for wire, put it all back together and tried it out. It worked like a champ. I was thrilled to have been able to find the part with schematics on this web site and it was the correct part and fixed the problem. I was also thrilled that I saved a couple hundred dollars fixing it myself and that it was so easy. I would highly recommend this company for the ease of use of finding the part on their web site, the reasonable price and their prompt processing and delivery.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Bottom Heating Element not heating up.
  • Wallace from Demorest,, GA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I miss diagnosed the situation at first. When the top element only heated up I thought the control was the problem. Wrong. Apparently both elements heat up during initial start up. It turned out that the bottom element was not working so it needed to be replaced rather then the control. Now both are replaced and the oven is now back to original status. Entire repair cost about $80. I saved over $100 by attempting this myself. Easy fix. Obviously I am not a pro. My local hardware store had a generic heating element that worked just fine and only cost $22. Two screws to repair after removing the back panel. Remember to pull the plug before you begin and after the repair put all panels back on before plugging back in. Pizza anyone?
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
one burner not working
  • Edwin from HIGHLANDS RANCH, CO
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
Removed two screws to access burner. Removed three power clips from burner, reattached the clips to new burner, removed brace clips and attach to new burner, close lid and reattach stove cover.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
All Instructions for the JCBS650ST1WW
76 - 90 of 114