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JCBP84DPBB General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the JCBP84DPBB
46 - 60 of 212

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Red Light On
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lawrence from DECATUR, AL
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
Red Light Off
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12" Haliant Element would only work on the outer ring.
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William from RICHMOND, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Watched repair videos on YouTube to prepare. The repair was very easy.
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The dryer drum wasn't spinning, but I could hear the motor and feel the heat from the heating element.
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from LAWRENCEVILLE, GA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
UNPLUG the dryer. I removed the top panel by removing the two screws at the top of the dryer door. There are some hooks toward the back of the top panel, so you'll need to slide it to the left to get it off. The front panel needs to be removed by removing two screws just inside the top left and right corners. Lift and set it aside. I didn 't disconnect the door wiring, but you can if you need to do so. I just spun the front panel to the left and out of the way. With the drum exposed, I confirmed the belt was broken. I replaced the belt, then the front panel and top panel. While I was inside the dryer, I did a through cleaning with the vacuum to get all the lint.

The video on the site is easy to understand and a snap to follow.
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Oven in accurate temp too low.
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joseph from LIBERTY HILL, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Open the oven , remove one screw holding the sensor remove the sensor and replace the sensor.
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When inspecting the back of my oven I noticed the cable had been pushed under (my guess from the mouse I found electrocuted where the power lines come in) and was touching one of the element prongs which burned the covering.
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mary from Bolton, MA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
Not counting unplugging it and taking off the 3 back panels of the oven (< 5 min.) It took < 2min. to change out. Unclipped cable in back, unscrewed one screw inside of oven at top between the two elements and pulled cable through to front, reversed to attach new sensor. Buttoned up the back, plugged back in and was good to go.
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Tub seal leaking, grinding noise on spin.
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lee from GRANDVILLE, MI
  • Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Purchased spanner wrench for tub nut wouldn’t budge, impacted off. Then spin tub took 2days to get loose, lots of WD40 , also heated up center area, used a small sledgehammer head to hit a socket on the large part of the shaft . Had to take out outer tub to replace seal and support bearing unit.
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surface burner switch was burned
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • abbas from redmond, WA
  • Really Easy
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
After receiving the new swith from part select in less than four days with surface mail as they promised, it took me less than five minutes to replace the new swith with the old one. The only tools that I needed were A) a 5/16 nut driver to remove the back panel in order to get an access to the swith.B) a phillips screw driver to remove t he swith assembley from the front panel.

I had an estimate from a technician to do the job for 196.27 dollars!!!!!:(:(. I only paid 29.56 Dollars to part select to get this swith, including the shipping.:):):)
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burner inside element not working
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Daniel from BURLINGTON, MA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Being a front burner, I used a 24 in piece of wood to hold up range top. After removing to screws holding top. Made note of numbers on old burner and wire locations. Took off wires and three spring clips. Then replaced with new in numbered locations , wires next
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GE oven showed "F2" error code and was over-heating
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kyle from AURORA, CO
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
I am not the handiest person in the world, and this repair was easy even for me. If you suspect that the temperature sensor is the problem, do yourself a favor and buy this inexpensive replacement part and install it yourself prior to calling a professional who will charge a service fee just for checking it out. Pull your oven out from the wall so you can access the back. Unscrew the small nuts on the back to remove the sheet metal cover. Find the wire that goes to the sensor and unplug the plastic coupling. In the oven, unscrew the one nut that secures the sensor to the back wall of the oven. Pull the broken sensor out and replace it with the new sensor. Feed the wire through to the back and plug the new sensor into the same wire that was just disconnected. Reinstall all of the nuts. Do a "test cook" on some frozen food to ensure that the temperature seems correct (i.e., does it cook as expected in the recommended amount of time). The actual repair takes less than five minutes. I put "30-60 minutes" to account for unplugging the oven, pulling it out, removing the screws, replacing the screws, pushing it back in, and testing the temperature.
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temp sensor in oven was failing.
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Chad from FRANKLIN, NC
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
I picked the least expensive and most likely issue with our oven that was not indicating a correct oven temperature. I am sure with a 15+ year appliance that the circuitry is on its way out but wanted to give this a try to avoid a new appliance purchase. Oven pre-heat setting takes much longer to finish with the age of the oven. However, after the new sensor the oven will maintain a more even temperature for the cycle.

Removal of the sensor from the inside of the oven is a bit awkward since it is located between the broiler elements at the back but a nut driver was the correct tool and worked fine. A bit stuck with the heating of the connection but pretty simple to replace. Must remove the back first to uncouple the connector. Simplest part of the repair.

At best a temporary fix for a an appliance this old.
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F2 fault code kept appearing on oven
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • emmett from rocky mount, NC
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Removed the oven door and shelves. Moved the oven out from wall, so that I could access the rear panel. Unplugged the oven. Removed the five (5) screws holding the rear panel in place and removed the panel. Disconnected the sensor at the connector. Removed the screw holding the sensor in place inside the oven and removed the sensor. Thea ded the sensor wire through the rear of the oven wall. Installed the sensor and screw to hold it in place. Snapped the connector from the sensor to the mating connector at the rear of the oven. Installed the rear panel. Installed the five (5) screws to hold the panel. Plugged the oven back in and slide the oven back to the wall. Installed the oven shelves and the oven door.
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Old handle broke off.
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Emily from BUENA VISTA, CO
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Removed any broken pieces from old handle and popped in new handle.
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Oven Temp. went too high and the door locked. Burnt the food
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Nathan from BILLINGS, MT
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
This temperature sensor is very easy to replace. There are two screws inside the oven in the top middle of the back of the oven. Take these off. on the back of the stove there is a metal plate with 5 screws I believe. Take these off with a nut driver. Then you will see a white connector coming from the spot where you took the other screws off. Take the white connector apart and pull out the temperature sensor from the inside of the oven. Then put the new one in.
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F2 Error on Display
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tom from FORNEY, TX
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The repair was very easy to do. Our oven was showing the F2 error code, which is associated with an over-temperature fault. Upon inspection, the oven was warm, but definitely not beyond the temperature threshold. I researched the issue and found this temperature sensor.
Swapping the sensor was extremely easy. You take off the back pa nel of the oven, unhook a single wiring harness, and undo some bolts inside the oven, which allows you to pull off the old sensor. Simply hook up the new sensor to the harness, pull everything back through, replace the fasteners, and you're good to go.
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Oven Wouldn't Heat
7 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Russell from Yuma, AZ
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Replaced
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All Instructions for the JCBP84DPBB
46 - 60 of 212