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JCBP84DM1BB General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the JCBP84DM1BB
76 - 90 of 114

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Light burnt out.
2 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Roscoe G from ROCHESTER, NY
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.
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F2 error code
0 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • jud from gatesville, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Really easy fix. Unplug oven. With a 5/16 nut driver take the 5 screws out of the center long tin cover and remove. Unplug little white temperature sensor plug located between broil heating element. Open oven door and remove one screw holding temp. sensor using same nut driver and simply pull out old sensor. Install new sensor. It's tha t easy. No more f2 been working like a champ!!!
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oven not warming, f2 indicating overheat
  • David from Lisle, IL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Removed 4 screws from back panel, disconnected small electricsl connector from sensor, removed one mounting screw from sensor inside oven,pulled wires through and removed old sensor. Fed wires for new sensor through and connected electrical connector, installed panel, installed mounting screw on sensor and checked oven, worked like a cham p. Took 5 minutes.
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Left front burner would only heat on high setting.
  • Morris from Ardmore, TN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Identified part and part # using schematic found on GE website, contacted PartSelect and confirmed part number, ordered and paid for part. Two days later I recieved part. Unplugged stove, removed two screws on bottom side of front panel and two on top back of same panel, pulled panel forward, pulled the control knob off, removed two smal l screws that hold the control switch in place, situated new control switch next to bad switch and removed one wire at the time from the bad switch and connected to the same terminal on the new switch. Put everything back together and Bingo, works like a new one. Thanks PartSelect for the friendly, personal phone service, the fast shipment and competitive pricing on my part.
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F2 reading
  • lynn from sunnyside, NY
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Followed the instructions that were sent to me by E-Mail.
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Haliant element was not heating
  • Mike from Marco Island, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Take off the two small screws under the glass top. Use a nut driver or small Cresent wrench. Prop up or have somone hold the top up while you remove the old element and make sure you mark where the two clips that hold it to the top are located. Now disconnected the wires and attached them to the new element. My suggestion is to take off o nly one wire at a time and attach it to the new unit. A very easy fix. Not more than a 15- 30 minute effort.
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The oven temperature could not be controlled
  • Keith from Annapolis, MD
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Socket set
Disconnect the range from the mains. Open the door. Remove the single screw holding the temperature sensor - this is located on the back wall on center and is screwed to the broiler mounting plate. Remove the four screws holding the boiler element and allow it to hang down on the wire; this exposes a space to feed the wire through later. Now move to the back of the range and remove the six screws that hold the central cover plate. Now push the insulation to up out of the way and you can disconnect the temperature sensor, pull it out through front, insert the new one and connect it. Reassemble in the reverse order. Mine worked perfectly!
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Dual Burner was not turning off or turning on by itself
  • Michael from North Miami Beach, FL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Pulled the top back panel off, pulled off burner control knob, removed 2 screws which released switch, removed 5 wires from switch and connected them to new switch (pulled off faily easily). Reconnected the 2 screws to range and pushed knob back on. Replaced panel and reconnect the electric. Now works as it should.
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Pilot light out
  • Henry from Sonoita, AZ
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Removed the power plug from the wall, screwdriver and small socket allowed me to remove the front control panel. Once I located the pilot light I pulled off the holding clips and placed a new light into the holding clips...problem solved.
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broken light socket
  • James from Monterey, TN
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
The only tool needed was a nutdriver to remove the lamp socket. I needed my head mounted light to see what I was doing, and everything went smoothly from there. Simple job.
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burned out oven light
  • Herbert from Virginia Beach, VA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Socket set
Turned off the power to the stove. Removed the oven door, Removed two screws holding the metal housing from the oven wall. pulled the assembly forward, removed the two electrical wires from the back of the socket, installed new gasket on back of metal assembly,inserted the wires thru the hole in the metal assembly, attached the wires to t he new socket, pushed the new socket in place making sure the two holding clamps were in place, screwed assembly back in oven wall, replaced new bulb, replaced glass cover over bulb, Replaced oven door, turned the power back on, Light works like new.
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f-2 or f-3
  • daniel from gap, PA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
remove two bolts in on sensor and slip thru back un plug and reverse to put in
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Convection fan came loose from shaft
  • Thomas from Albuquerque, NM
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
Convection fan came loose from the shaft with a lout rattle and grinding as the fan spun down. Had to remove four metal screws to remove the fan cover. Initially tried to just put the nut back on to hold the fan. However, I could not get the nut to start, so I assumed that threads were stripped on the nut or the shaft. Ordered the rep lacement nut, hoping that it was the nut that was the problem. However, I had the same problem with the new nut. I could see no damage on the shaft. It finally occurred to me that the nut and shaft had left-hand threads (counter-clockwise to tighten). At that point, it was extremely easy to put the nut back on and tighten it. I did not try using the old nut, since I had already received the new one, but I'm certain that if I had come to that realization earlier, I could have saved time and money. So, if you have the same problem, try putting the nut on "backwards."
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Flashing F2 and erratic temperature readings.
  • Kenneth from Salem, OR
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Unplugged from wall outlet, then opened oven front door. Reached in and removed two screws. Pulled oven sensor threw and detached electrical connector from old sensor. Plugged in new oven sensor and reversed removal procedure. No more Flashing F2 and oven temperature came to ready. Very easy.
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Old Element Cotrols were sparking due some type of Electrical Short
  • Steven from Boerne, TX
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Unplugged the stove, removed the back control cover, removed the Element Control Knob on front, removed the two screws holding the control in place, pull one wire of old control and connected to the new control - one at a time to ensure proper placement, re-attached the screws, control knob, back cover, plugged in stove, and repairs were completed in less then 15 minutes for both controls.
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All Instructions for the JCBP84DM1BB
76 - 90 of 114