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JCBP83SP1SS General Electric Range - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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Burner Would Not Turn Off
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BILLY from WEBSTER, FL
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Nutdriver
Replace control switch
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one leg of the terminal block was loose and overheated under load.the terminal block melted and could have caused a fire.
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brendan from lebanon, NH
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
I took a picture of the setup and damage . I then disconnected the burnt wires and replaced the wires . Then I installed the new terminal block and connected the wires to the proper positions. The reason for the failure was that the delivery people didn't tighten the cord when they installed the stove . I would check the connections per
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iodically as to avoid another situation like this .
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Drawer glider broke about a year ago.
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loma from Neah Bay, WA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers
My wife could open and close the drawer without too much difficulty, but occasionally, it would not close properly and she would have to empty the contents do could alaign it properly to close. The last time she was talking about buying a whole new drawer. I asked her what the part looked like, as I never to fight with it. I went online a
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nd found the part for $1.16 plus shipping at $8 plus. It was well worth the time and effort, and I now have a happy wife. Paul Parker
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Range top burners work, but Oven would not. Click flashed and made a clicking noise when trying to turn on the oven, but shut off
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James from Hope Mills, NC
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
My Range had the issue I mentioned here. I put off the repairs for a long time, but Thanksgiving was around the corner and we needed a working oven. I had made a previous call to repair man and was quoted $75.00 for a service call to come and check the issue. Before calling a repair man back, I decided to pull the rear cover off the range
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to see how complicated it would be to repair. I removed the rear cover and found that everything was connected to this "Oven Electronic Control" except for the top elements (explaining why they still worked and the oven didn't). This made it seem that this part would surely have to be causing the issue. I did a search on Google and found this company and the part that I needed. The cost of the part was less than the service call for a repair man would have been. I ordered the part and paid for next day delivery. The part shipped on Monday and arrived on Tuesday. For the installation, I had to identify the wiring because the connector layout was a little different. When I looked closely I found that the terminals were numbered the same as the old part. I replaced wire for wire, put it all back together and tried it out. It worked like a champ. I was thrilled to have been able to find the part with schematics on this web site and it was the correct part and fixed the problem. I was also thrilled that I saved a couple hundred dollars fixing it myself and that it was so easy. I would highly recommend this company for the ease of use of finding the part on their web site, the reasonable price and their prompt processing and delivery.
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Replacment of burner control switches
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Judith from Keezletown, VA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
I watched your video on the subject and followed it exactly. It explained everything I needed to know. The hardest part was CLEANING under the stove once I pulled it out from the wall!
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Pilot light out
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Henry from Sonoita, AZ
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers, Socket set
Removed the power plug from the wall, screwdriver and small socket allowed me to remove the front control panel. Once I located the pilot light I pulled off the holding clips and placed a new light into the holding clips...problem solved.
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Mother board was blown
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Kenneth from Bradenton, FL
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
Purchased the board installed it and saved about 130 dollars.
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Bottom Heating Element not heating up.
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Wallace from Demorest,, GA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I miss diagnosed the situation at first. When the top element only heated up I thought the control was the problem. Wrong. Apparently both elements heat up during initial start up. It turned out that the bottom element was not working so it needed to be replaced rather then the control. Now both are replaced and the oven is now back
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to original status. Entire repair cost about $80. I saved over $100 by attempting this myself. Easy fix. Obviously I am not a pro. My local hardware store had a generic heating element that worked just fine and only cost $22. Two screws to repair after removing the back panel. Remember to pull the plug before you begin and after the repair put all panels back on before plugging back in. Pizza anyone?
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Blew the electronic Control Board
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PETE from MANCHACA, TX
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Pliers, Screw drivers
It was easy to replace it. Just remove the screws and unplug each wire and plug them back. The problem was to take off the plate cover that has the printed letters on. The plate cover cost more than the Electronic Control Board.
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oven control panel was blacked out..no clock no start.
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Pam from Daphne, AL
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers
Took out the old control module and removed the sticker and reattached sticker to new part and installed the plugs, put the screws back in and it started working, thankyou so much.
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broken light socket
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James from Monterey, TN
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Nutdriver
The only tool needed was a nutdriver to remove the lamp socket. I needed my head mounted light to see what I was doing, and everything went smoothly from there. Simple job.
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