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JCBP83DP2BB General Electric Range - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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eye wouldnt come on
0 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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daniel from valentines, VA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver
removed the top section on stove and removed the wires off swtitch and put on new one then put new switch in
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light keep burning out in oven.
2 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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john from Mc Kees Rocks, PA
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
Remove the door. Just open a little and pull up. Removed racks. Removed 3 screws with nutdriver. Pulled out housing. Disconnected 2 wires. Assembled new housing with with bulb receptacle and gasket. Reconnected wires and crimped a little to make them snug. Pushed housing back into hole. Put 3 screws back in, inserted bulb and cover. Slid
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door back on and done. 30 minutes at most.
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Other Parts Used:
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Burner not heating.
1 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jack from Greensboro, GA
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
Isolated to control switch.
Replaced
Replaced
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Burner Would Not Turn Off
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BILLY from WEBSTER, FL
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
Replace control switch
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oven continued to get F2, F3 and F5 error messages when ovewn got hot
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Ralph from Redding, CA
- Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
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Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
This repair was quite a bit more difficult then what had been described on the web site. First off, I have a double wall oven that is built in. Sliding it out of the cabinet was difficult and because oven was hard wired, I had to disconnect the actual wiring from the oven back. . Positioning the oven and allowing for it to rest on a s
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upport bench was the most difficult part The oven is heavy. Eventually, removing the back and top panels of the oven revealed the sensor connection. I was then able to feed it through the oven and reconnect all the wiring harnesses.. Getting the oven back in the cabinet was equally a challenge. But it did seem to fix the problem with over heating.
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Replacment of burner control switches
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Judith from Keezletown, VA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
I watched your video on the subject and followed it exactly. It explained everything I needed to know. The hardest part was CLEANING under the stove once I pulled it out from the wall!
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Pilot light out
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Henry from Sonoita, AZ
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
Removed the power plug from the wall, screwdriver and small socket allowed me to remove the front control panel. Once I located the pilot light I pulled off the holding clips and placed a new light into the holding clips...problem solved.
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Bottom Heating Element not heating up.
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Wallace from Demorest,, GA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I miss diagnosed the situation at first. When the top element only heated up I thought the control was the problem. Wrong. Apparently both elements heat up during initial start up. It turned out that the bottom element was not working so it needed to be replaced rather then the control. Now both are replaced and the oven is now back
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to original status. Entire repair cost about $80. I saved over $100 by attempting this myself. Easy fix. Obviously I am not a pro. My local hardware store had a generic heating element that worked just fine and only cost $22. Two screws to repair after removing the back panel. Remember to pull the plug before you begin and after the repair put all panels back on before plugging back in. Pizza anyone?
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Blew the electronic Control Board
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PETE from MANCHACA, TX
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
It was easy to replace it. Just remove the screws and unplug each wire and plug them back. The problem was to take off the plate cover that has the printed letters on. The plate cover cost more than the Electronic Control Board.
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Range top burners work, but Oven would not. Click flashed and made a clicking noise when trying to turn on the oven, but shut off
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James from Hope Mills, NC
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
My Range had the issue I mentioned here. I put off the repairs for a long time, but Thanksgiving was around the corner and we needed a working oven. I had made a previous call to repair man and was quoted $75.00 for a service call to come and check the issue. Before calling a repair man back, I decided to pull the rear cover off the range
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to see how complicated it would be to repair. I removed the rear cover and found that everything was connected to this "Oven Electronic Control" except for the top elements (explaining why they still worked and the oven didn't). This made it seem that this part would surely have to be causing the issue. I did a search on Google and found this company and the part that I needed. The cost of the part was less than the service call for a repair man would have been. I ordered the part and paid for next day delivery. The part shipped on Monday and arrived on Tuesday. For the installation, I had to identify the wiring because the connector layout was a little different. When I looked closely I found that the terminals were numbered the same as the old part. I replaced wire for wire, put it all back together and tried it out. It worked like a champ. I was thrilled to have been able to find the part with schematics on this web site and it was the correct part and fixed the problem. I was also thrilled that I saved a couple hundred dollars fixing it myself and that it was so easy. I would highly recommend this company for the ease of use of finding the part on their web site, the reasonable price and their prompt processing and delivery.
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clock, over control, oven light , timer did not work
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Robert from Austin, AR
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
remove rear panel cover, removered four screws that held control panel, disconnected colored wires, removed circuit control board, reinstall new board and connected color coded wire to the correct spot on the board, plugged in 220 volt cord, switch on circuit breaker, everything worked normal again
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Oven light wire broken, damaged socket
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Patricia from Brandenburg, KY
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Nutdriver, Pliers
Remove light bail, glass cover held by two nut screws. Pull socket, removed clips in back, replaced wire connectors, placed new socket in, then glass cover and bail. Wire connected in back, cover plate replaced.
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Heating Element Burned out
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Rick from Tombstone, AZ
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
The task was very easy. After recieving the replacement I removed 2 small hex head screws using a nut driver. I pulled the slip on connectors apart the reversed the steps. I was done and able to use the oven in less than minutes.
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Plastic glide broke
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Mary Ann from Granby, CT
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
The person I spoke to knew exactly what I was trying to describe. The part arrived in 2 days. 5 minutes later the drawer was back in place. I was glad I save the screw as the part did not come with one.
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Bad control board
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Daryl from Savannah, TN
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Nutdriver, Pliers
Removed top back plate of oven. unpluged all of the wiring plugs on the control board. Removed two screws on the control board. Removed face plate from old control board and put it on the new control board. Atteched new board with the two screws. Connected all of the plugs to new board ( all plugs are color coded to board). Re-installed o
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ven back plate. Pluged oven in. Works great.
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