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JCBP83DP2BB General Electric Range - Instructions
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Cooktop oil fire melted plastic parts; control defaced
12 of 22 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John from Gaston, OR
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Some of the original TO-9 switches were fused by the heat. I made them functional again with a cutter on a rotary tool, but to make the repair properly, I ordered the new control unit and the faceplate graphics. Note the guide tabs at the bottom and right edges when replacing the graphics. Don't plan on reusing your old graphics (unless y
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ou are a wizard at removing the very strong adhesive).
To gain access to the part, remove the 2 screws (part 715) in the bottom of the control assembly with a stubby screwdriver. Using a nut driver, remove the two screws (part 1000) on the back at the corners, being careful not to drop them behind the oven. Pull out at the bottom, then move the whole unit toward you. Note the position of the wires. A digital photo can help here. Remove the wiring and 4 screws holding the clear plastic TO-9. Put the screws in the new unit in the same holes and rewire. Put the assembly in place top-first and align the screw holes. Finding the same thread placement for the lower screws can be tricky, so start them gently.
To gain access to the part, remove the 2 screws (part 715) in the bottom of the control assembly with a stubby screwdriver. Using a nut driver, remove the two screws (part 1000) on the back at the corners, being careful not to drop them behind the oven. Pull out at the bottom, then move the whole unit toward you. Note the position of the wires. A digital photo can help here. Remove the wiring and 4 screws holding the clear plastic TO-9. Put the screws in the new unit in the same holes and rewire. Put the assembly in place top-first and align the screw holes. Finding the same thread placement for the lower screws can be tricky, so start them gently.
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Replace stove top burners (3 total)
8 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Thomas from Bonifay, FL
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Unplug stove first. Raised the stove top and propped up useing wooden spoon and wife assistance holding up. Pay attention to spot brackets hand to top. Removed sheet metal screws from bracket clamp holding burner in place. Removed one extension bracket from old burner and transfeered to new burner. Removeing one bracket clamp allows the
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other one to act like a hinge and make for easy removal and replacement. Back of burner had corresponding numbers which made it easy to replace brackets in same place as old. I carefully take one electrical wire at a time from old burner and transfeered to the new burner. Replaced burner same way it came off.
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back burner not getting hot
8 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
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William from Shenandoah, PA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
unplug stove first...take back of stove off to get to burner switch remove wires colors coded.. get new switch put wires on the same way.plug stove in test burner...very simple to replace.and save $$$$$$$$
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Replace Oven light socket and light bulb in kitchen Range
6 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Ronald from TUCSON, AZ
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
1) Turn off power at circuit breaker panel
2) Slide out Range from wall
3) Unplug Range
4) Remove back panel and unplug electrical connections to socket
5) From front of oven, remove glass cover over old oven light bulb and remove flange that holds socket and bulb
6) Remove old socket from mounting flange and disc ... Read more ard.
7) Place new socket into mounting flange
8) Screw mounting flange and new socket into the oven from front. Reattach electrical connections from back.
9) Screw in new light bulb from front
10) Replace existing glass cover over new light bulb and snap wire holder in place
11) Replace back panel
11) Plug in range
12) Slide range back to original position
13) Turn on power
Works like a charm! Thanks for having the parts after 30 years!
2) Slide out Range from wall
3) Unplug Range
4) Remove back panel and unplug electrical connections to socket
5) From front of oven, remove glass cover over old oven light bulb and remove flange that holds socket and bulb
6) Remove old socket from mounting flange and disc ... Read more ard.
7) Place new socket into mounting flange
8) Screw mounting flange and new socket into the oven from front. Reattach electrical connections from back.
9) Screw in new light bulb from front
10) Replace existing glass cover over new light bulb and snap wire holder in place
11) Replace back panel
11) Plug in range
12) Slide range back to original position
13) Turn on power
Works like a charm! Thanks for having the parts after 30 years!
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Other Parts Used:
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switch went to high setting no matter what the setting was
10 of 19 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Frank from Glen Cove, NY
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
took off cover, pulled all wires off switch, pushed wires on new switch, put cover back on. Whalaa..
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The drawer support broke.
8 of 14 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Cindy from Golden Valley, ND
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Removed the screw from the broken piece and put the new piece on and put the screw on.
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Red Light On
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Lawrence from DECATUR, AL
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
Red Light Off
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Shorted the control panel changing bulb without shutting off power dumbass
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Stephen from BELLINGHAM, MA
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Replaced control panel after removing original control panel facing with heat gun and Wala
Other Parts Used:
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surface burner switch was burned
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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abbas from redmond, WA
- Really Easy
- More than 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
After receiving the new swith from part select in less than four days with surface mail as they promised, it took me less than five minutes to replace the new swith with the old one. The only tools that I needed were A) a 5/16 nut driver to remove the back panel in order to get an access to the swith.B) a phillips screw driver to remove t
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he swith assembley from the front panel.
I had an estimate from a technician to do the job for 196.27 dollars!!!!!:(:(. I only paid 29.56 Dollars to part select to get this swith, including the shipping.:):):)
I had an estimate from a technician to do the job for 196.27 dollars!!!!!:(:(. I only paid 29.56 Dollars to part select to get this swith, including the shipping.:):):)
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I broke the left drawer glide on our oven
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Keith from Freeport, IL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
I unscrewed to old glide and replaced it then re attached the screw
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nylon guide was broke off
5 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Lathan from Goodyear, AZ
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
took drawer out removed broken guide. It had 1 screw removed it put the new guide in place put screw back in. Put drawer back in stove, It works fine.
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Oven Wouldn't Heat
7 of 13 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Russell from Yuma, AZ
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Replaced
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Oven control panel shorted while remove a broken lightbulb from the oven
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Terry from SEATTLE, WA
- Very Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
I removed the new control panel from its packaging and noticed that the button overlay was not included. I grabbed a putty knife and carefully loosened the adhesive on the old panel and was able to apply it to the new control panel. After installing it I looked up the number of my old panel on the included paperwork and simply entered the
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“profile” number after powering up the new one and It worked perfectly. I was very relieved to not have to buy a new range!
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Other Parts Used:
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oven would not heat
5 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jim from Williamsburg, VA
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
I removed the 4 hex head screws holding the control panel , then the other 4 slotted screws. Disconnected all wires being careful to keep track of the color coding. Had a little trouble with the adhesive holding the face plate( I don't know why they even used it). Put the new panel in and reconnected it. Re set circuit breaker and tried t
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he oven. It still wouldn't heat. it wasn't the control panel, but a burned out wire connecting the element in the back of the oven. Well, anyway I learned how to do the job and the the new panel activates better, so all was not lost.
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OVEN CLOCK CONTROL MALFUNCTIONED
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Gregoire from N CHESTERFLD, VA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
I turned off the circuit breaker and unplugged the stove. I removed the back panel and marked the location of the wires on the new oven clock control. I detached the wires and removed the old card. I installed the new one and reconnected the wires. I plugged the stove and turned on the circuit breaker. All the lights came on and the oven
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worked fine. I reinstalled the back panel and it took me less than thirty minutes to complete the job.
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