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JCBP81DM3BB General Electric Range - Instructions
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Oven is off 10 degrees
7 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Ike from LOGANVILLE, GA
- Very Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
I changed out the sensor and still same problem. Change out Thermosat and still same problem.
I call the help number and emailed the help but I got nothing but have to many calls because of the virus situation.
Still need help.
I’m an electrician and I don’t want to call a service technician and pay that big bill.
... Read more Can anyone there help me out, if so please call.
Ike Stanton
678-525-6644
I call the help number and emailed the help but I got nothing but have to many calls because of the virus situation.
Still need help.
I’m an electrician and I don’t want to call a service technician and pay that big bill.
... Read more Can anyone there help me out, if so please call.
Ike Stanton
678-525-6644
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new tea kettle burned out both the element and the control
9 of 14 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Dwight from Warrenton, VA
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Screw drivers
After replacing the dual element and still having a problem with the range, I started troubleshooting the switch. Fortunately, our range has 2 dual burners, and the switches are the same, so I was able to move the switch and see the problem follow the switch (also, using a VOM, I could tell there was a short in the switch).
Since I'd ... Read more already replaced the element, I only had to work on the controls, which are very easy to access.
I carefully documented all the connections (took a couple of pictures as well), and swapping out the switch took almost no time.
Lesson learned - follow the manufacturer's requirement to use only cookware with a flat bottom. This tea kettle only sat flat around the outside edge. That caused both the element and switch to blow. The "hot cooktop" light stayed on constantly, even after the element was replaced.
Since I'd ... Read more already replaced the element, I only had to work on the controls, which are very easy to access.
I carefully documented all the connections (took a couple of pictures as well), and swapping out the switch took almost no time.
Lesson learned - follow the manufacturer's requirement to use only cookware with a flat bottom. This tea kettle only sat flat around the outside edge. That caused both the element and switch to blow. The "hot cooktop" light stayed on constantly, even after the element was replaced.
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Replace Oven light socket and light bulb in kitchen Range
6 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Ronald from TUCSON, AZ
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
1) Turn off power at circuit breaker panel
2) Slide out Range from wall
3) Unplug Range
4) Remove back panel and unplug electrical connections to socket
5) From front of oven, remove glass cover over old oven light bulb and remove flange that holds socket and bulb
6) Remove old socket from mounting flange and disc ... Read more ard.
7) Place new socket into mounting flange
8) Screw mounting flange and new socket into the oven from front. Reattach electrical connections from back.
9) Screw in new light bulb from front
10) Replace existing glass cover over new light bulb and snap wire holder in place
11) Replace back panel
11) Plug in range
12) Slide range back to original position
13) Turn on power
Works like a charm! Thanks for having the parts after 30 years!
2) Slide out Range from wall
3) Unplug Range
4) Remove back panel and unplug electrical connections to socket
5) From front of oven, remove glass cover over old oven light bulb and remove flange that holds socket and bulb
6) Remove old socket from mounting flange and disc ... Read more ard.
7) Place new socket into mounting flange
8) Screw mounting flange and new socket into the oven from front. Reattach electrical connections from back.
9) Screw in new light bulb from front
10) Replace existing glass cover over new light bulb and snap wire holder in place
11) Replace back panel
11) Plug in range
12) Slide range back to original position
13) Turn on power
Works like a charm! Thanks for having the parts after 30 years!
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Other Parts Used:
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The oven did not get up to or hold the correct temperature
6 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Robert from ARROYO GRANDE, CA
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
This should have been a very easy fix. But, as I tried to pull out the old temperature sensor, the wire would not come out. I was afraid to pull too hard because I did not want to break the wire. So, I coxed it out easily until I could see the plastic connector. Then, the old wire pulled free from the connector leaving the end of the c
... Read more
onnector inside the back of the oven. I then had to fish the end of the wire around with the piece of wire through the very small hole in the back of the oven. Once I got it close to the hole, I was able to grab the connector with some needle nose plyers. Connecting the new sensor and reinstalling everything was easy and the oven now works just fine.
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Oven temperature would not go above 240 degrees
7 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Glenn from Grapevine, TX
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver
Pulled the oven out and unplugged it. Removed five screws and the back cover. Disconnected the electrical connection. Removed one screw and pulled the sensor out. Installed the sensor and screw. Made the electrical connection on the back, replaced the cover and five screws. Plugged the electrical cord back in and tested the oven tem
... Read more
perature compared to the setting. Worked great. My wife then made a small batch of muffins to test it out and they were good.
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Small radiant wasn't working but large was.
6 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Joan from CLEMMONS, NC
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Ordered the dual replacement. I am 76 so I had someone else do it. It took him about 15 minutes. Just pulled the oven forward about 8" so he could lift the top up. 2 Screws to release the top. Then just removed the part and plugged in the replacement. Rescrewed the top screws and pushed the oven back.
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F2 error; over heating, unknown reason
6 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Tim from LEAVENWORTH, WA
- Very Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I just followed the instructions on the link provided with the part
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Replace window pack assembly
6 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Rose from BEND, OR
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Socket set
This door required a lot more screws to be removed in order to remove the inside window assembly. I counted a total of 19 screws. That is why the estimated time is 30-60 minutes.
- remove door from range following the basic guide to removing any range door.
- place door on work surface with the outside facing down.
... Read more - remove three 1/4 socket screws from bottom and two star screws on top.
- Flip door over, remove outer door panel and set aside.
- There will be a separate pane of glass that needs to be removed. Remove 1/4 socket screws holding glass and set aside.
- Slide door over your work surface edge so you can remove the star screws holding the door hinges (from underneath). You could flip the door over but the door would have to be flipped back once the hinges were removed.
- Remove the remaining 1/4 screws holding the aluminum shielding.
- Remove the shielding being careful not to disturb the insulation around the window.
- Remove the damaged window. Take note of the writing and orientation on the aluminum window frame. (upper right if hinges were on the bottom)
- Set the new window in its place.
- Reverse the process by replacing the aluminum shield, hinges, than internal glass pane.
- Set outer door on top and holding everything together, flip door.
- Tighten the two star screws on top and the three 1/4 socket screws on the bottom.
- Replace door. Don't forget to lift up those hinge tabs before trying to close the door.
All done. Pat yourself on the back for a job well done.
- remove door from range following the basic guide to removing any range door.
- place door on work surface with the outside facing down.
... Read more - remove three 1/4 socket screws from bottom and two star screws on top.
- Flip door over, remove outer door panel and set aside.
- There will be a separate pane of glass that needs to be removed. Remove 1/4 socket screws holding glass and set aside.
- Slide door over your work surface edge so you can remove the star screws holding the door hinges (from underneath). You could flip the door over but the door would have to be flipped back once the hinges were removed.
- Remove the remaining 1/4 screws holding the aluminum shielding.
- Remove the shielding being careful not to disturb the insulation around the window.
- Remove the damaged window. Take note of the writing and orientation on the aluminum window frame. (upper right if hinges were on the bottom)
- Set the new window in its place.
- Reverse the process by replacing the aluminum shield, hinges, than internal glass pane.
- Set outer door on top and holding everything together, flip door.
- Tighten the two star screws on top and the three 1/4 socket screws on the bottom.
- Replace door. Don't forget to lift up those hinge tabs before trying to close the door.
All done. Pat yourself on the back for a job well done.
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12" Haliant Element would only work on the outer ring.
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
William from RICHMOND, TX
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
Watched repair videos on YouTube to prepare. The repair was very easy.
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Interior burner of right front dual burner was out
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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MARK from PHOENIXVILLE, PA
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
Initially replaced the switch on the range--a simple job--pull the wires one by one and place them on the new switch. This did not resolve the problem, which meant that it was the burner, not the switch. I left the new switch in place and ordered a new burner. This, too, was simple, but involved creating a detailed drawing of the switch c
... Read more
onnectors rather than photos, which, because of the crossing of similarly colored wires, might have been confusing. The only hitch was that the burner is attached to the top by indented clips that fit into pegs at numbered locations on the burner. The clips were very difficult to open and situate, but once done (and this step was the only one where a second person was required) the top was closed and screwed back in place (two screws) and it worked perfectly.
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Original terminal block plastic shielding melted, protecting appliance when the wires overheated.
6 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Brian from DOVER, PA
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
Safety first * Unplugged 220 VAC from outlet. Removed shield cover screws with 1/4" hex nut driver (5 screws). Removed all 6 silver screws from terminal block with 1/4" nut driver, freeing all wires. Removed the green ground screw and ground bracket from center terminal. Cut away (using the drill) melted original terminal block plastic to
... Read more
access the 2 black 1/4" nuts holding original terminal block onto appliance. Discarded the original damaged terminal block. Attached the new terminal block, aligning the mounting holes and the terminal block the same way the original terminal block was lined up and re-used the black 1/4" nuts (original used because the replacement package did not include new black screws). I bought a new appliance cord, since the original cord overheated. Reattached all wires using the 6 new silver screws. Start with the middle terminal by attaching the appliance wires and the ground bracket. The ground must be attached to the bracket and the bracket bridges between the terminal block and the range body. Reattached shield cover. Plugged in appliance. Note: it doesn't matter which outside wire attaches to the outside terminals (both are hot), but the middle wire (neutral) must attach to the middle terminal. However, the ring terminal should be flush on the terminal block so you don't bend the ring.
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Inside burner did not heat
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Roberto L from LAUREL, MD
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
Disconnect old burner and reconnect new one
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Oven in accurate temp too low.
6 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Joseph from LIBERTY HILL, TX
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
Open the oven , remove one screw holding the sensor remove the sensor and replace the sensor.
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When inspecting the back of my oven I noticed the cable had been pushed under (my guess from the mouse I found electrocuted where the power lines come in) and was touching one of the element prongs which burned the covering.
6 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Mary from Bolton, MA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Socket set
Not counting unplugging it and taking off the 3 back panels of the oven (< 5 min.) It took < 2min. to change out. Unclipped cable in back, unscrewed one screw inside of oven at top between the two elements and pulled cable through to front, reversed to attach new sensor. Buttoned up the back, plugged back in and was good to go.
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Broke oven door handle while unloadin new stove.
6 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Tom from Mt. Pleasant, MI
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
loosen interior panel of oven with star driver. Removed broken arm. install inner screw and then install final screw to both panels and handle.
The inner screw mount only through the exterior door only making it tricky to line up the final bolt which goes through both panels and the handle.
Other than that it when sm ... Read more oothly.
The inner screw mount only through the exterior door only making it tricky to line up the final bolt which goes through both panels and the handle.
Other than that it when sm ... Read more oothly.
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