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JCBP81DM2BB General Electric Range - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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Dual Burner was not turning off or turning on by itself
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Michael from North Miami Beach, FL
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Pulled the top back panel off, pulled off burner control knob, removed 2 screws which released switch, removed 5 wires from switch and connected them to new switch (pulled off faily easily). Reconnected the 2 screws to range and pushed knob back on. Replaced panel and reconnect the electric. Now works as it should.
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Mother board was blown
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Kenneth from Bradenton, FL
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
Purchased the board installed it and saved about 130 dollars.
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Pilot light out
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Henry from Sonoita, AZ
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
Removed the power plug from the wall, screwdriver and small socket allowed me to remove the front control panel. Once I located the pilot light I pulled off the holding clips and placed a new light into the holding clips...problem solved.
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Range top burners work, but Oven would not. Click flashed and made a clicking noise when trying to turn on the oven, but shut off
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James from Hope Mills, NC
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
My Range had the issue I mentioned here. I put off the repairs for a long time, but Thanksgiving was around the corner and we needed a working oven. I had made a previous call to repair man and was quoted $75.00 for a service call to come and check the issue. Before calling a repair man back, I decided to pull the rear cover off the range
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to see how complicated it would be to repair. I removed the rear cover and found that everything was connected to this "Oven Electronic Control" except for the top elements (explaining why they still worked and the oven didn't). This made it seem that this part would surely have to be causing the issue. I did a search on Google and found this company and the part that I needed. The cost of the part was less than the service call for a repair man would have been. I ordered the part and paid for next day delivery. The part shipped on Monday and arrived on Tuesday. For the installation, I had to identify the wiring because the connector layout was a little different. When I looked closely I found that the terminals were numbered the same as the old part. I replaced wire for wire, put it all back together and tried it out. It worked like a champ. I was thrilled to have been able to find the part with schematics on this web site and it was the correct part and fixed the problem. I was also thrilled that I saved a couple hundred dollars fixing it myself and that it was so easy. I would highly recommend this company for the ease of use of finding the part on their web site, the reasonable price and their prompt processing and delivery.
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Bottom Heating Element not heating up.
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Wallace from Demorest,, GA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I miss diagnosed the situation at first. When the top element only heated up I thought the control was the problem. Wrong. Apparently both elements heat up during initial start up. It turned out that the bottom element was not working so it needed to be replaced rather then the control. Now both are replaced and the oven is now back
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to original status. Entire repair cost about $80. I saved over $100 by attempting this myself. Easy fix. Obviously I am not a pro. My local hardware store had a generic heating element that worked just fine and only cost $22. Two screws to repair after removing the back panel. Remember to pull the plug before you begin and after the repair put all panels back on before plugging back in. Pizza anyone?
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one burner not working
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Edwin from HIGHLANDS RANCH, CO
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Socket set
Removed two screws to access burner. Removed three power clips from burner, reattached the clips to new burner, removed brace clips and attach to new burner, close lid and reattach stove cover.
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F2 reading
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lynn from sunnyside, NY
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
Followed the instructions that were sent to me by E-Mail.
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Oven slow to heat up
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Joe from Harkers Is., NC
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver
Removed oven door. Removed 2 screws from heat sensor on rear upper wall of oven. Pulled unit out to access rear of unit. Removed six screws on shield on back of unit. Dis connected heat sensor wire and pulled old sensor through from inside of oven. Feed wire of new sensor through from inside and plug in. Everything in reverse. I also had
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the gas(propane) company come out and check the pressure coming out of the "low pres." regulator. It was low, they changed the regulator.
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The middle of the element quit working.
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Ruth Ann from New Columbia, PA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Took the old burner out, tranferred the wires from old to new. Installed the new burner. Works fine.
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The oven temperature could not be controlled
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Keith from Annapolis, MD
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Socket set
Disconnect the range from the mains. Open the door. Remove the single screw holding the temperature sensor - this is located on the back wall on center and is screwed to the broiler mounting plate. Remove the four screws holding the boiler element and allow it to hang down on the wire; this exposes a space to feed the wire through later.
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Now move to the back of the range and remove the six screws that hold the central cover plate. Now push the insulation to up out of the way and you can disconnect the temperature sensor, pull it out through front, insert the new one and connect it. Reassemble in the reverse order. Mine worked perfectly!
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We had a broken glass
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Allison from Madison, AL
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Socket set
Very easy to fix with two people and works great
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oven control panel was blacked out..no clock no start.
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Pam from Daphne, AL
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers
Took out the old control module and removed the sticker and reattached sticker to new part and installed the plugs, put the screws back in and it started working, thankyou so much.
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broken light socket
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James from Monterey, TN
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Nutdriver
The only tool needed was a nutdriver to remove the lamp socket. I needed my head mounted light to see what I was doing, and everything went smoothly from there. Simple job.
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burned out oven light
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Herbert from Virginia Beach, VA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Pliers, Socket set
Turned off the power to the stove. Removed the oven door, Removed two screws holding the metal housing from the oven wall. pulled the assembly forward, removed the two electrical wires from the back of the socket, installed new gasket on back of metal assembly,inserted the wires thru the hole in the metal assembly, attached the wires to t
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he new socket, pushed the new socket in place making sure the two holding clamps were in place, screwed assembly back in oven wall, replaced new bulb, replaced glass cover over bulb, Replaced oven door, turned the power back on, Light works like new.
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Other Parts Used:
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Shorted Control Unit -
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Gerald from Plantsville, CT
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
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Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Control unit was easy to remove ,wires color coded-the face plate(key pad) needed to be separated from the old unit. Carefully used a hair dryer to warm the decal. . . Secured the old unit gently in a vise, warmed ( and separated slowly, with a razor blade and thin putty knife(patience). . Once removed, applied to the new unit. .
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. 5 Stars to partselect for service. . . . Turned a $400 repair into $100 do-it your self. Partselect will be my 1st "go to" from now-on.
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