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JCBP80SK2SS General Electric Range - Instructions
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Actual temperature in oven was not consistent with the temperature setting
11 of 11 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Martha from WILMINGTON, OH
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Socket set
I am a 69 year old woman. I watched the Repair Clinic YouTube Video before I started. I then pulled stove away from wall and unplugged it. Took off oven door and removed the top oven rack. Loosened and removed the screw holding the temperature sensor located inside at the top center back wall of the oven. Pulled the sensor through th
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e opening until the plastic plug came through. Unplugged and removed it and plugged in the new sensor. Fished it back through the opening. Replaced the bracket to the back wall of the oven and tightened the screw. Replaced the oven rack and stove door. Plugged it back in and moved it back into place. I turned on the oven and let is heat for over 30 minutes and the internal temperature was correct with the setting.
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rear supports were broken
11 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
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TED from herndon, VA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
The draw pictorial was not very clear. I orderd the two rear supports for the over storage draw, not sure they were correct.
They were correct and the design had been upgraded to add strength to the support.
The draw is now operational..better then ever.
They were correct and the design had been upgraded to add strength to the support.
The draw is now operational..better then ever.
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Element burned into two pieces
11 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Philip W. from White House, TN
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
Threw the breakers off for the range. Removed the 2 screws on element connection end. Pulled element out 3 to 4 inches being careful not to scrape insulation on 220 wires. Had wife hold element from moving as I wiggled off the pair of wires from the element connectors. Next made sure wires were clipped in wooden sprung closepin to pre
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vent slippage back into the rear of the hole in the oven. Next removed the screw holding the thermo lead being carefull not to kink or twist it. Removed the final 2 screws from the front hangers and removed the old unit from the cavity.
Placed the new unit in the cavity and slid the front clip backwards 3 inches to allow work romm when the unit was attached. Doing it this way allows the element to float so you have both hands to reconnect the 220 wires. After reconnecting then rescrew the thermo to the connection plate and carefully slide the unit backwards in the front clips allowing the wire connections to be put where they belong without touching the range sides or rear panel. Replace the final 2 screws when the unit is seated properly in the back wall.
Flip the breakers to on and test your handywork. You should see a glow off of the element in 30 seconds or less. Be aware a small bit of production lubricant may burn off with the first heating of the unit. No worry as it is a small wisp.
Placed the new unit in the cavity and slid the front clip backwards 3 inches to allow work romm when the unit was attached. Doing it this way allows the element to float so you have both hands to reconnect the 220 wires. After reconnecting then rescrew the thermo to the connection plate and carefully slide the unit backwards in the front clips allowing the wire connections to be put where they belong without touching the range sides or rear panel. Replace the final 2 screws when the unit is seated properly in the back wall.
Flip the breakers to on and test your handywork. You should see a glow off of the element in 30 seconds or less. Be aware a small bit of production lubricant may burn off with the first heating of the unit. No worry as it is a small wisp.
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Interior light needed replaced
22 of 46 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Leo from TWIN FALLS, ID
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.
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Main Oven Element failed
10 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
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james from cottage grove, MN
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Socket set
With circuit breaker off, I opened the oven door and removed the two mounting hex-head screws that held the cooking element at the rear of the oven. I pulled the oven away from the wall and unplugged the unit's 220 volt power cord from the wall. I removed the rear cover panel by removing five hex-head screws that held the panel in place
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. I sought out the wires that connected to the oven element and pulled the tabs from the failed element. I moved to the front of the stove to remove the old element. As the contact ends of the element are curved up, I needed to lift the front of the old element up to an approximate angle of 45 degrees before I was able to remove it from the oven. I then placed the new element into the mounting holes, again with the front of the element raised at an angle. Its insertion was easily performed. I replaced the main element mounting screws at the rear of the oven. I went to the rear of stove again and reconnected the power tabs to the element contacts. I repositioned the rear cover panel and replaced the five hex-head screws to secure it into place. The main power was reconnected to the power outlet and carefully slid the stove back into position. Circuit power was reset and the oven tested successfully.
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Inner oven door glass broke
10 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Micheal from SHEPHERDSVLLE, KY
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Pull the old one put in the new one ... took about 20 minutes
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No clock, oven control buttons don't work, stove top work ok, tested power was ok to the control board.
9 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
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David from SANTA CLARA, CA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
Removed back panel screws, removed back panel, removed screws of the control board, remove control board, heated glue and tore off plastic face plate, placed face plate on new control board, installed new control board, moved wires from old control board to new control board, test out oven, reinstalled back panel
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Phantom burner activation when switched off!
10 of 13 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Peter from Phoenix, AZ
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
Scary when stove burner comes on by itself, was turning breaker off for safety! GE website not helpful at all. PartSelect website enabled diagnosis of problem and then provided easy source for replacement switch. PartSelect has schematics: all I had to do is unscrew the back of control panel, unscrew offending infinite switch, hook up
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replacement switch same way, put panel back and done. GE service call starts at $80 and then who knows what kinda $$$? Did repair myself: cost just $38. Yay!
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Oven on range did not work properly
10 of 13 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Dinah from Juneau, AK
- Very Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Socket set
My oven bake element melted one day. I had my husband replace it and for a short while it worked. Then it quit but then our broil element would not shut off. My husband said that it might be the heat sensor. We checked here in town and that element cost over $80. Since we have order from Parts Select before we decide to do so again. When
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we received the heat sensor my husband replaced it taking out the original heat sensor. This did not work as the broil element still would not turn off. I call the repair man and I found out that the initial melt down of the bake element also effected the main circut board that had to e replaced.
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Oven not holding a consistant temperature. Found the replacement part easily on you website.Thanks to your photo.
10 of 14 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Cindy from Murrells Inlet, SC
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver
First turned off power at breaker box. Pulled stove out to remove the half dozen hex screws on the back panel.(some nuts were stripped)Removed old oven sensor inside oven held by one hex screw and replaced it with the new part. Oven works great now! Repair job was done by husband Mike.
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Twice I ordered the oven light bulb & each time the light bulb was defected
18 of 38 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Barbara from BELLEVUE, WA
- Very Difficult
- Less than 15 mins
I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appl
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iance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance
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Broken Liight Socket
14 of 26 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Rchard from Derry, NH
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
Removed the broken socket, and replaced with new one.
Other Parts Used:
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Storage Drawer rear support broken
8 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Tiffany from Denver, CO
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Socket set
Tried GE onoine parts department first and ordered the wrong part, then tried the customer hotline and they referred me to the right part but didn't explain that the design had been modified (the drawings had not been updated). I found an explanation on Part Select AND the parts were cheaper. Part Select sent the part, the necessary scr
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ew, and an appropriate instruction manual. Each support took less than a minute to screw in with a socket wrench.
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Heat sensor malfunction
7 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Diane from BUTLER, PA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Socket set
Disconnect power, then remove racks from oven, locate heat sensor by the broiler element. Use ratchet with extension and correct socket to remove the bolt directly under the heat sensor, pull the sensor out till you see the plug, disconnect the plug and then connect new sensor to it push wire back thru and then rebolt the new sensor on,
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thats it...
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Cooktop oil fire melted plastic parts; control defaced
12 of 22 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John from Gaston, OR
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Some of the original TO-9 switches were fused by the heat. I made them functional again with a cutter on a rotary tool, but to make the repair properly, I ordered the new control unit and the faceplate graphics. Note the guide tabs at the bottom and right edges when replacing the graphics. Don't plan on reusing your old graphics (unless y
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ou are a wizard at removing the very strong adhesive).
To gain access to the part, remove the 2 screws (part 715) in the bottom of the control assembly with a stubby screwdriver. Using a nut driver, remove the two screws (part 1000) on the back at the corners, being careful not to drop them behind the oven. Pull out at the bottom, then move the whole unit toward you. Note the position of the wires. A digital photo can help here. Remove the wiring and 4 screws holding the clear plastic TO-9. Put the screws in the new unit in the same holes and rewire. Put the assembly in place top-first and align the screw holes. Finding the same thread placement for the lower screws can be tricky, so start them gently.
To gain access to the part, remove the 2 screws (part 715) in the bottom of the control assembly with a stubby screwdriver. Using a nut driver, remove the two screws (part 1000) on the back at the corners, being careful not to drop them behind the oven. Pull out at the bottom, then move the whole unit toward you. Note the position of the wires. A digital photo can help here. Remove the wiring and 4 screws holding the clear plastic TO-9. Put the screws in the new unit in the same holes and rewire. Put the assembly in place top-first and align the screw holes. Finding the same thread placement for the lower screws can be tricky, so start them gently.
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