JCBP80SJ3SS General Electric Range - Instructions

Removed the broken socket, and replaced with new one.

Basically removed the screws holding the op on and removed the vent from back. Just "figured it out" and now it works. Wish I could be more helpful. Recommend moderate experience and confidence.

First turned off power at breaker box. Pulled stove out to remove the half dozen hex screws on the back panel.(some nuts were stripped)Removed old oven sensor inside oven held by one hex screw and replaced it with the new part. Oven works great now! Repair job was done by husband Mike.

When we moved into our new home I discovered that the oven that came with the home did not have any racks in it. I ordered these racks because they said they were compatible with Hotpoint ovens. However, when the racks arrived they were just a tad too wide to easily slide in the oven. With a bit of force my husband was able to shove th ... Read more e racks in. Luckily I don't cook enough to care if they are moved again because I don't think they'll come out easily.

Disconnect power, then remove racks from oven, locate heat sensor by the broiler element. Use ratchet with extension and correct socket to remove the bolt directly under the heat sensor, pull the sensor out till you see the plug, disconnect the plug and then connect new sensor to it push wire back thru and then rebolt the new sensor on, ... Read more thats it...

Tried GE onoine parts department first and ordered the wrong part, then tried the customer hotline and they referred me to the right part but didn't explain that the design had been modified (the drawings had not been updated). I found an explanation on Part Select AND the parts were cheaper. Part Select sent the part, the necessary scr ... Read more ew, and an appropriate instruction manual. Each support took less than a minute to screw in with a socket wrench.

Unplug stove first. Raised the stove top and propped up useing wooden spoon and wife assistance holding up. Pay attention to spot brackets hand to top. Removed sheet metal screws from bracket clamp holding burner in place. Removed one extension bracket from old burner and transfeered to new burner. Removeing one bracket clamp allows the ... Read more other one to act like a hinge and make for easy removal and replacement. Back of burner had corresponding numbers which made it easy to replace brackets in same place as old. I carefully take one electrical wire at a time from old burner and transfeered to the new burner. Replaced burner same way it came off.

Some of the original TO-9 switches were fused by the heat. I made them functional again with a cutter on a rotary tool, but to make the repair properly, I ordered the new control unit and the faceplate graphics. Note the guide tabs at the bottom and right edges when replacing the graphics. Don't plan on reusing your old graphics (unless y ... Read more ou are a wizard at removing the very strong adhesive).
To gain access to the part, remove the 2 screws (part 715) in the bottom of the control assembly with a stubby screwdriver. Using a nut driver, remove the two screws (part 1000) on the back at the corners, being careful not to drop them behind the oven. Pull out at the bottom, then move the whole unit toward you. Note the position of the wires. A digital photo can help here. Remove the wiring and 4 screws holding the clear plastic TO-9. Put the screws in the new unit in the same holes and rewire. Put the assembly in place top-first and align the screw holes. Finding the same thread placement for the lower screws can be tricky, so start them gently.

unplug stove first...take back of stove off to get to burner switch remove wires colors coded.. get new switch put wires on the same way.plug stove in test burner...very simple to replace.and save $$$$$$$$

First I shut off power to the unit. Then I removed the oven shelves. Next, I removed the two screws that hold the element in place using a socket ratchet. Then I carefully pulled the element out a few inches. I had some clothes pins with me because I read how some people had problems with the wire leads slipping back into the unit ins ... Read more ulation. When the terminals and wire leads were exposed, I clamped the clothes pins on the wires between the leads and the oven wall so the wires could not be pulled back into the wall. Then I disconnected the wires from the old element. Next, I connected the new element to the wires, removed the clothes pins and gently nudge the element terminals back into the oven wall. Then I put the screws back to secure the element. Finally, I turn the power on and set the oven to 400 degrees. When I saw the element get red hot in a couple of minutes, I knew it was fixed. I've used it several times since then.

TURNED OFF CIRCUIT BREAKER FIRST. Pulled Stove from wall, Removed 5 screws to remove back plate. Unplugged 2 spade electrical connections. Unpluged temp. sensor plug. Opened oven door and removed 2 screws holding element to top of oven. removed screw holding temp probe to element. Installed the elment in the reverse order starti ... Read more ng with the temp probe. when finished with install, I tested the unit before covering the back. I used a oven temp tester to make sure that when the element went out that the temp probe was not damaged. Everything checked out fine and I finished installing the back cover and putting stove in place. Cleaned up area and JOB DONE.

Used a pliers to remove old bake element (2 nuts that none of our socket set would fit). Removed the back panel with screwdriver. Unattached bake element from wires. Then removed old element and put new element in, pulled new element wires through back and reattached to range. Screwed back in the oven with the pliers. Closed up the b ... Read more ack panel with the screws.

I changed out the sensor and still same problem. Change out Thermosat and still same problem.
I call the help number and emailed the help but I got nothing but have to many calls because of the virus situation.
Still need help.
I’m an electrician and I don’t want to call a service technician and pay that big bill.
... Read more Can anyone there help me out, if so please call.
Ike Stanton
678-525-6644

After replacing the dual element and still having a problem with the range, I started troubleshooting the switch. Fortunately, our range has 2 dual burners, and the switches are the same, so I was able to move the switch and see the problem follow the switch (also, using a VOM, I could tell there was a short in the switch).
Since I'd ... Read more already replaced the element, I only had to work on the controls, which are very easy to access.
I carefully documented all the connections (took a couple of pictures as well), and swapping out the switch took almost no time.
Lesson learned - follow the manufacturer's requirement to use only cookware with a flat bottom. This tea kettle only sat flat around the outside edge. That caused both the element and switch to blow. The "hot cooktop" light stayed on constantly, even after the element was replaced.

This should have been a very easy fix. But, as I tried to pull out the old temperature sensor, the wire would not come out. I was afraid to pull too hard because I did not want to break the wire. So, I coxed it out easily until I could see the plastic connector. Then, the old wire pulled free from the connector leaving the end of the c ... Read more onnector inside the back of the oven. I then had to fish the end of the wire around with the piece of wire through the very small hole in the back of the oven. Once I got it close to the hole, I was able to grab the connector with some needle nose plyers. Connecting the new sensor and reinstalling everything was easy and the oven now works just fine.