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JCBP80CK3CC General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the JCBP80CK3CC
76 - 90 of 428

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surface burner switch was burned
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • abbas from redmond, WA
  • Really Easy
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
After receiving the new swith from part select in less than four days with surface mail as they promised, it took me less than five minutes to replace the new swith with the old one. The only tools that I needed were A) a 5/16 nut driver to remove the back panel in order to get an access to the swith.B) a phillips screw driver to remove t he swith assembley from the front panel.

I had an estimate from a technician to do the job for 196.27 dollars!!!!!:(:(. I only paid 29.56 Dollars to part select to get this swith, including the shipping.:):):)
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Oven Wouldn't Heat
7 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Russell from Yuma, AZ
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Replaced
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Oven control panel shorted while remove a broken lightbulb from the oven
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Terry from SEATTLE, WA
  • Very Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
I removed the new control panel from its packaging and noticed that the button overlay was not included. I grabbed a putty knife and carefully loosened the adhesive on the old panel and was able to apply it to the new control panel. After installing it I looked up the number of my old panel on the included paperwork and simply entered the “profile” number after powering up the new one and It worked perfectly. I was very relieved to not have to buy a new range!
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The broil element was burned through
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Reza from Scottsdale, AZ
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Wrench set
First thing I unplugged the range. Then I unscrewed 4 screws in the back of the stove to take the back cover off. Then inside the oven, I unscrewed three screws to lossen the element. Then disconnected the two wires from the element.

Then replaced the old element with the new one going exactly backward as mentioned above finis hing with plugging the range.
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temp sensor in oven was failing.
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Chad from FRANKLIN, NC
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
I picked the least expensive and most likely issue with our oven that was not indicating a correct oven temperature. I am sure with a 15+ year appliance that the circuitry is on its way out but wanted to give this a try to avoid a new appliance purchase. Oven pre-heat setting takes much longer to finish with the age of the oven. However, after the new sensor the oven will maintain a more even temperature for the cycle.

Removal of the sensor from the inside of the oven is a bit awkward since it is located between the broiler elements at the back but a nut driver was the correct tool and worked fine. A bit stuck with the heating of the connection but pretty simple to replace. Must remove the back first to uncouple the connector. Simplest part of the repair.

At best a temporary fix for a an appliance this old.
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F2 fault code kept appearing on oven
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • emmett from rocky mount, NC
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Removed the oven door and shelves. Moved the oven out from wall, so that I could access the rear panel. Unplugged the oven. Removed the five (5) screws holding the rear panel in place and removed the panel. Disconnected the sensor at the connector. Removed the screw holding the sensor in place inside the oven and removed the sensor. Thea ded the sensor wire through the rear of the oven wall. Installed the sensor and screw to hold it in place. Snapped the connector from the sensor to the mating connector at the rear of the oven. Installed the rear panel. Installed the five (5) screws to hold the panel. Plugged the oven back in and slide the oven back to the wall. Installed the oven shelves and the oven door.
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outside element burned out
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • peter from westfield, MA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
. First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two plugs.
plugged in the new element and screwed it in place
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One of the drawer supports broke off
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Sandy Hook, CT
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
I pulled out the drawer and inserted the new support. This one inserts into the back of the drawer as opposed to the sides. I had ordered two of the replacements even though I only needed one and decided to replace both. I think it was a good move as the drawer works better than when we first got it. Just one simple screw made it com plete.
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F2 Error on Display
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tom from FORNEY, TX
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The repair was very easy to do. Our oven was showing the F2 error code, which is associated with an over-temperature fault. Upon inspection, the oven was warm, but definitely not beyond the temperature threshold. I researched the issue and found this temperature sensor.
Swapping the sensor was extremely easy. You take off the back pa nel of the oven, unhook a single wiring harness, and undo some bolts inside the oven, which allows you to pull off the old sensor. Simply hook up the new sensor to the harness, pull everything back through, replace the fasteners, and you're good to go.
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Oven Temp. went too high and the door locked. Burnt the food
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Nathan from BILLINGS, MT
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
This temperature sensor is very easy to replace. There are two screws inside the oven in the top middle of the back of the oven. Take these off. on the back of the stove there is a metal plate with 5 screws I believe. Take these off with a nut driver. Then you will see a white connector coming from the spot where you took the other screws off. Take the white connector apart and pull out the temperature sensor from the inside of the oven. Then put the new one in.
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Burner element was burnt
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Chandra from Naugaeuck, CT
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
It was very easy. First turn off the power. Remove two screws to pick up the hood then remove two screws holding the element. Tag the wires with number. Unplug the old burner attach the wires to new burner. Attach two screws with spring to hold the burner, put the hood down and put the screws holding the top hood.
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The front right outer element was defective.
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Peter from Abbeville, LA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
My cooktop is a stand alone unit mounted in a counter top not associated with an oven.
-Removed power to the cook top. Breaker off.
-Lifted the cook top straight up from the counter top and placed two 24 inch board strips to support it above the counter top. This was very easy by pushing up from the bottom of the cook top. T his is a two person job preferably.
-Removed the six phillip screws below the glass surface edge. 3 in the front, three in the back.
-Remove knobs and remove the glass top by lifting straight up.
-Record the wire positions on the element on paper and remove the connections.
-The element is mounted on two spring loaded studs that have spring clips as a retainer. Remove the two clips by pulling straight up with a plier or needlenose.
-The replacement element did not come equipped with the two mounting ears that the original had. I removed the two ears from the defective element and installed them on the new element. Very easy. Two phillips screws. The elements have perferations in the correct areas to accommodate this.
-Placed the new element in position and reinstalled the spring clips.
-Install the wiring terminals in the correct positions.
-Reinstalled the glass surface and the six phillips screws. Reinstall the knobs.
-Lower the cook top back into its counter top position.
-Return power to the cook top.
-Installation complete. Very simple!
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top oven heating element
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • marlene from Pilgrim, KY
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I first turned off power, then I removed the old top oven heating element, I connected the new element to power supply then placed the element back into holders.
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Broker inner glass
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • marc from PARK RIDGE, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Very easy to remove the parts and to reassemble
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oven would not heat
5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jim from Williamsburg, VA
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
I removed the 4 hex head screws holding the control panel , then the other 4 slotted screws. Disconnected all wires being careful to keep track of the color coding. Had a little trouble with the adhesive holding the face plate( I don't know why they even used it). Put the new panel in and reconnected it. Re set circuit breaker and tried t he oven. It still wouldn't heat. it wasn't the control panel, but a burned out wire connecting the element in the back of the oven. Well, anyway I learned how to do the job and the the new panel activates better, so all was not lost.
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All Instructions for the JCBP80CK3CC
76 - 90 of 428