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JCBP79SP1SS General Electric Range - Instructions
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terminal block melted
56 of 77 people
found this instruction helpful.
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jonathan from willow springs, IL
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The existing terminal block on my Ge oven/Range had melted due to a loose wire causing sparking and starting the plastic casing of the terminal block on fire and melting it, Part select made the part easy to find and had it at my house in 2 days. All I had to do was remove six screws to take the back sheet metal cover off of the oven. U
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nscrew the terminal connections remove two mounting screws that held the terminal on to the oven body. This was a little trickier than it should have been because the melted plastic had reformed making it very hard to access the mounting screws. i then mounted the new piece and plugged the oven in, it took 15 minutes and was very easy. definitely saved me at-least a $100 for the service call i would have made if finding the part wasn't so convenient
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Oven sensor was not holding temperature range.
48 of 81 people
found this instruction helpful.
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CHARLA from NEW BRAUNFELS, TX
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
Per the instructions included with part.
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defective temp. sensor
20 of 30 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Armand from COVENTRY, CT
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Screw drivers
Removed oven from cabinet. unblug old sensor pluged in new and reinstalled oven. Esay repair though wish oven was designed so did not have to pull itout of cabinet which requires disconect electric cabel
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When baking at temps > 400 the oven would beep with an error code F5 and shut off
16 of 20 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jack from Cypress, TX
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I downloaded the installaion manual from the web for this model. First htings first, I located the circuit breaker for the oven and turned it off. Removed the lower trim piece from the bottom, next lifted the oven door off its hinges and set it to the side. I then wrapped a couple of small towels around the hinges for the door as per
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the manual (the hinges can pinch a finger). I then removed the four screws which secured the oven into the cabinet. Next I slid the oven forward allowing me access to the rear. I removed the pieces from the rear to gain access to the sensors connector, and unpl;ugged the sensor. Went around to the front and unscrewed the 2 screws securing the sensor and removed it. I then installed the new sensor, replaced the rear covers, slid the oven back into the cabinet, secured the four screws, snapped on the lower trim, remounted the oven door, and turned the breaker on. Oven working fine now.
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Oven was not reaching or maintaining temperature.
14 of 20 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Raymond from Madrid, IA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver
Took off oven door and removed racks. Removed the cover on the back side (5 screws removed with nut driver) Pulled sensor out the front side of the oven. Threaded the new sensor through and put all back together.
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Interior light needed replaced
22 of 46 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Leo from TWIN FALLS, ID
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Nutdriver
Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.
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Twice I ordered the oven light bulb & each time the light bulb was defected
18 of 38 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Barbara from BELLEVUE, WA
- Very Difficult
- Less than 15 mins
I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appl
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iance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance
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back burner not getting hot
8 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
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William from Shenandoah, PA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
unplug stove first...take back of stove off to get to burner switch remove wires colors coded.. get new switch put wires on the same way.plug stove in test burner...very simple to replace.and save $$$$$$$$
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Replace stove top burners (3 total)
8 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Thomas from Bonifay, FL
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Unplug stove first. Raised the stove top and propped up useing wooden spoon and wife assistance holding up. Pay attention to spot brackets hand to top. Removed sheet metal screws from bracket clamp holding burner in place. Removed one extension bracket from old burner and transfeered to new burner. Removeing one bracket clamp allows the
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other one to act like a hinge and make for easy removal and replacement. Back of burner had corresponding numbers which made it easy to replace brackets in same place as old. I carefully take one electrical wire at a time from old burner and transfeered to the new burner. Replaced burner same way it came off.
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Replace Oven light socket and light bulb in kitchen Range
6 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Ronald from TUCSON, AZ
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
1) Turn off power at circuit breaker panel
2) Slide out Range from wall
3) Unplug Range
4) Remove back panel and unplug electrical connections to socket
5) From front of oven, remove glass cover over old oven light bulb and remove flange that holds socket and bulb
6) Remove old socket from mounting flange and disc ... Read more ard.
7) Place new socket into mounting flange
8) Screw mounting flange and new socket into the oven from front. Reattach electrical connections from back.
9) Screw in new light bulb from front
10) Replace existing glass cover over new light bulb and snap wire holder in place
11) Replace back panel
11) Plug in range
12) Slide range back to original position
13) Turn on power
Works like a charm! Thanks for having the parts after 30 years!
2) Slide out Range from wall
3) Unplug Range
4) Remove back panel and unplug electrical connections to socket
5) From front of oven, remove glass cover over old oven light bulb and remove flange that holds socket and bulb
6) Remove old socket from mounting flange and disc ... Read more ard.
7) Place new socket into mounting flange
8) Screw mounting flange and new socket into the oven from front. Reattach electrical connections from back.
9) Screw in new light bulb from front
10) Replace existing glass cover over new light bulb and snap wire holder in place
11) Replace back panel
11) Plug in range
12) Slide range back to original position
13) Turn on power
Works like a charm! Thanks for having the parts after 30 years!
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switch went to high setting no matter what the setting was
10 of 19 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Frank from Glen Cove, NY
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
took off cover, pulled all wires off switch, pushed wires on new switch, put cover back on. Whalaa..
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The drawer support broke.
8 of 14 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Cindy from Golden Valley, ND
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Removed the screw from the broken piece and put the new piece on and put the screw on.
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Original terminal block plastic shielding melted, protecting appliance when the wires overheated.
6 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Brian from DOVER, PA
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
Safety first * Unplugged 220 VAC from outlet. Removed shield cover screws with 1/4" hex nut driver (5 screws). Removed all 6 silver screws from terminal block with 1/4" nut driver, freeing all wires. Removed the green ground screw and ground bracket from center terminal. Cut away (using the drill) melted original terminal block plastic to
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access the 2 black 1/4" nuts holding original terminal block onto appliance. Discarded the original damaged terminal block. Attached the new terminal block, aligning the mounting holes and the terminal block the same way the original terminal block was lined up and re-used the black 1/4" nuts (original used because the replacement package did not include new black screws). I bought a new appliance cord, since the original cord overheated. Reattached all wires using the 6 new silver screws. Start with the middle terminal by attaching the appliance wires and the ground bracket. The ground must be attached to the bracket and the bracket bridges between the terminal block and the range body. Reattached shield cover. Plugged in appliance. Note: it doesn't matter which outside wire attaches to the outside terminals (both are hot), but the middle wire (neutral) must attach to the middle terminal. However, the ring terminal should be flush on the terminal block so you don't bend the ring.
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Red Light On
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Lawrence from DECATUR, AL
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
Red Light Off
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surface burner switch was burned
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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abbas from redmond, WA
- Really Easy
- More than 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
After receiving the new swith from part select in less than four days with surface mail as they promised, it took me less than five minutes to replace the new swith with the old one. The only tools that I needed were A) a 5/16 nut driver to remove the back panel in order to get an access to the swith.B) a phillips screw driver to remove t
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he swith assembley from the front panel.
I had an estimate from a technician to do the job for 196.27 dollars!!!!!:(:(. I only paid 29.56 Dollars to part select to get this swith, including the shipping.:):):)
I had an estimate from a technician to do the job for 196.27 dollars!!!!!:(:(. I only paid 29.56 Dollars to part select to get this swith, including the shipping.:):):)
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