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JCBP79DM1WW General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the JCBP79DM1WW
121 - 135 of 163

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

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prior knobs were discolored and ugly
  • Barbara from Sun City West, AZ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
just purchased new knobs. The price was great, just took a little longer to receive then anticipated though.
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Broken drawer support
  • Mario from Deer Park, WA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Followed the example picture on the part bag. Anyone could do this, incredibly easy. Took about 4 minutes to install both sides.
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Oven light wire broken, damaged socket
  • Patricia from Brandenburg, KY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Remove light bail, glass cover held by two nut screws. Pull socket, removed clips in back, replaced wire connectors, placed new socket in, then glass cover and bail. Wire connected in back, cover plate replaced.
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Stove drawer rear guides broken
  • Robert from Shakopee, MN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Installed new guides with a nut driver without any problems.
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broken handle on oven door
  • Lowell from Boulder, CO
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Used star screw driver to take door apart used socket set to unscrew handle screws. Installed new handle. Handle fit perfectly.
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Orange light "Hot Stovetop" lense broke off.
  • John from Woodbridge, VA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Parts arrived in record time and the right parts. The detailed diagram was so helpful in finding exactly the part I needed to order. Was so easy my girlfriend with no mechanical or electrical experience completely helped me through the entire project. She secured the electrical breaker to the range, and I had the top back to the oven r emoved. I showed her how the little white box simply slides off the lens cover, then replaced the new one in the holes and slide it back on. Secured the back and she turned on the breaker back on...and all lights work. Thanks for making this project easy, simple and quick.
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rear drawer supports broke
  • TERRY from RICHMOND, VA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
Directtions were by diagram only, no written instructions. Drawing was small and difficult to follow but the repair itself was easy.
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F2 reading
  • lynn from sunnyside, NY
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Followed the instructions that were sent to me by E-Mail.
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Small burner not working, outside was fine
  • Lynda from Burdock, SD
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Followed directions that I found on the internet and it was easy to remove the old burner and replace it with the one I ordered from you. There was no problems at all.
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Pilot light out
  • Henry from Sonoita, AZ
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Removed the power plug from the wall, screwdriver and small socket allowed me to remove the front control panel. Once I located the pilot light I pulled off the holding clips and placed a new light into the holding clips...problem solved.
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f-2 or f-3
  • daniel from gap, PA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
remove two bolts in on sensor and slip thru back un plug and reverse to put in
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Convection fan came loose from shaft
  • Thomas from Albuquerque, NM
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
Convection fan came loose from the shaft with a lout rattle and grinding as the fan spun down. Had to remove four metal screws to remove the fan cover. Initially tried to just put the nut back on to hold the fan. However, I could not get the nut to start, so I assumed that threads were stripped on the nut or the shaft. Ordered the rep lacement nut, hoping that it was the nut that was the problem. However, I had the same problem with the new nut. I could see no damage on the shaft. It finally occurred to me that the nut and shaft had left-hand threads (counter-clockwise to tighten). At that point, it was extremely easy to put the nut back on and tighten it. I did not try using the old nut, since I had already received the new one, but I'm certain that if I had come to that realization earlier, I could have saved time and money. So, if you have the same problem, try putting the nut on "backwards."
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Oven slow to heat up
  • Joe from Harkers Is., NC
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Removed oven door. Removed 2 screws from heat sensor on rear upper wall of oven. Pulled unit out to access rear of unit. Removed six screws on shield on back of unit. Dis connected heat sensor wire and pulled old sensor through from inside of oven. Feed wire of new sensor through from inside and plug in. Everything in reverse. I also had the gas(propane) company come out and check the pressure coming out of the "low pres." regulator. It was low, they changed the regulator.
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broken light socket
  • James from Monterey, TN
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
The only tool needed was a nutdriver to remove the lamp socket. I needed my head mounted light to see what I was doing, and everything went smoothly from there. Simple job.
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The oven temperature could not be controlled
  • Keith from Annapolis, MD
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Socket set
Disconnect the range from the mains. Open the door. Remove the single screw holding the temperature sensor - this is located on the back wall on center and is screwed to the broiler mounting plate. Remove the four screws holding the boiler element and allow it to hang down on the wire; this exposes a space to feed the wire through later. Now move to the back of the range and remove the six screws that hold the central cover plate. Now push the insulation to up out of the way and you can disconnect the temperature sensor, pull it out through front, insert the new one and connect it. Reassemble in the reverse order. Mine worked perfectly!
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All Instructions for the JCBP79DM1WW
121 - 135 of 163