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JCBP79DM1WW General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the JCBP79DM1WW
31 - 45 of 163

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Oven is off 10 degrees
7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ike from LOGANVILLE, GA
  • Very Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
I changed out the sensor and still same problem. Change out Thermosat and still same problem.
I call the help number and emailed the help but I got nothing but have to many calls because of the virus situation.
Still need help.
I’m an electrician and I don’t want to call a service technician and pay that big bill.
Can anyone there help me out, if so please call.
Ike Stanton
678-525-6644
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Replace Oven light socket and light bulb in kitchen Range
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ronald from TUCSON, AZ
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
1) Turn off power at circuit breaker panel
2) Slide out Range from wall
3) Unplug Range
4) Remove back panel and unplug electrical connections to socket
5) From front of oven, remove glass cover over old oven light bulb and remove flange that holds socket and bulb
6) Remove old socket from mounting flange and disc ard.
7) Place new socket into mounting flange
8) Screw mounting flange and new socket into the oven from front. Reattach electrical connections from back.
9) Screw in new light bulb from front
10) Replace existing glass cover over new light bulb and snap wire holder in place
11) Replace back panel
11) Plug in range
12) Slide range back to original position
13) Turn on power
Works like a charm! Thanks for having the parts after 30 years!
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The oven did not get up to or hold the correct temperature
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from ARROYO GRANDE, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
This should have been a very easy fix. But, as I tried to pull out the old temperature sensor, the wire would not come out. I was afraid to pull too hard because I did not want to break the wire. So, I coxed it out easily until I could see the plastic connector. Then, the old wire pulled free from the connector leaving the end of the c onnector inside the back of the oven. I then had to fish the end of the wire around with the piece of wire through the very small hole in the back of the oven. Once I got it close to the hole, I was able to grab the connector with some needle nose plyers. Connecting the new sensor and reinstalling everything was easy and the oven now works just fine.
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Oven temperature would not go above 240 degrees
7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Glenn from Grapevine, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Pulled the oven out and unplugged it. Removed five screws and the back cover. Disconnected the electrical connection. Removed one screw and pulled the sensor out. Installed the sensor and screw. Made the electrical connection on the back, replaced the cover and five screws. Plugged the electrical cord back in and tested the oven tem perature compared to the setting. Worked great. My wife then made a small batch of muffins to test it out and they were good.
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F2 error; over heating, unknown reason
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tim from LEAVENWORTH, WA
  • Very Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I just followed the instructions on the link provided with the part
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Replace window pack assembly
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Rose from BEND, OR
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Socket set
This door required a lot more screws to be removed in order to remove the inside window assembly. I counted a total of 19 screws. That is why the estimated time is 30-60 minutes.

- remove door from range following the basic guide to removing any range door.
- place door on work surface with the outside facing down.
- remove three 1/4 socket screws from bottom and two star screws on top.
- Flip door over, remove outer door panel and set aside.
- There will be a separate pane of glass that needs to be removed. Remove 1/4 socket screws holding glass and set aside.
- Slide door over your work surface edge so you can remove the star screws holding the door hinges (from underneath). You could flip the door over but the door would have to be flipped back once the hinges were removed.
- Remove the remaining 1/4 screws holding the aluminum shielding.
- Remove the shielding being careful not to disturb the insulation around the window.
- Remove the damaged window. Take note of the writing and orientation on the aluminum window frame. (upper right if hinges were on the bottom)
- Set the new window in its place.
- Reverse the process by replacing the aluminum shield, hinges, than internal glass pane.
- Set outer door on top and holding everything together, flip door.
- Tighten the two star screws on top and the three 1/4 socket screws on the bottom.
- Replace door. Don't forget to lift up those hinge tabs before trying to close the door.
All done. Pat yourself on the back for a job well done.
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The small burner inside the double burner shortd out.
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • david from PORT ORANGE, FL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
The first thing was to watch U-Tube . The replacement burner was being
replaced in a GE glass top range. Exter tools were required than depicted
in the U-Tube project. The project overall was not dificult for me however I was a general contracter for over 25 years
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Original terminal block plastic shielding melted, protecting appliance when the wires overheated.
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Brian from DOVER, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
Safety first * Unplugged 220 VAC from outlet. Removed shield cover screws with 1/4" hex nut driver (5 screws). Removed all 6 silver screws from terminal block with 1/4" nut driver, freeing all wires. Removed the green ground screw and ground bracket from center terminal. Cut away (using the drill) melted original terminal block plastic to access the 2 black 1/4" nuts holding original terminal block onto appliance. Discarded the original damaged terminal block. Attached the new terminal block, aligning the mounting holes and the terminal block the same way the original terminal block was lined up and re-used the black 1/4" nuts (original used because the replacement package did not include new black screws). I bought a new appliance cord, since the original cord overheated. Reattached all wires using the 6 new silver screws. Start with the middle terminal by attaching the appliance wires and the ground bracket. The ground must be attached to the bracket and the bracket bridges between the terminal block and the range body. Reattached shield cover. Plugged in appliance. Note: it doesn't matter which outside wire attaches to the outside terminals (both are hot), but the middle wire (neutral) must attach to the middle terminal. However, the ring terminal should be flush on the terminal block so you don't bend the ring.
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Outer ring of burner did not work
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Barry from Bradenton, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
1- opened oven door
2- unscrewed 2 screws underneath top with a socket wrench
3- unscrewed clips that held burner
4-used needle nose pliers to pull off wire clips off old burner
5- placed wires onto new burner
6- opened clips to make it easier to reinsert burner
7-reattached burner
8-Replaced top