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JCBP78DM2WW General Electric Range - Instructions
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No clock, oven control buttons don't work, stove top work ok, tested power was ok to the control board.
9 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
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David from SANTA CLARA, CA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
Removed back panel screws, removed back panel, removed screws of the control board, remove control board, heated glue and tore off plastic face plate, placed face plate on new control board, installed new control board, moved wires from old control board to new control board, test out oven, reinstalled back panel
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Phantom burner activation when switched off!
10 of 13 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Peter from Phoenix, AZ
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
Scary when stove burner comes on by itself, was turning breaker off for safety! GE website not helpful at all. PartSelect website enabled diagnosis of problem and then provided easy source for replacement switch. PartSelect has schematics: all I had to do is unscrew the back of control panel, unscrew offending infinite switch, hook up
... Read more
replacement switch same way, put panel back and done. GE service call starts at $80 and then who knows what kinda $$$? Did repair myself: cost just $38. Yay!
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Oven on range did not work properly
10 of 13 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Dinah from Juneau, AK
- Very Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Socket set
My oven bake element melted one day. I had my husband replace it and for a short while it worked. Then it quit but then our broil element would not shut off. My husband said that it might be the heat sensor. We checked here in town and that element cost over $80. Since we have order from Parts Select before we decide to do so again. When
... Read more
we received the heat sensor my husband replaced it taking out the original heat sensor. This did not work as the broil element still would not turn off. I call the repair man and I found out that the initial melt down of the bake element also effected the main circut board that had to e replaced.
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Broken Liight Socket
14 of 26 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Rchard from Derry, NH
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
Removed the broken socket, and replaced with new one.
Other Parts Used:
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Twice I ordered the oven light bulb & each time the light bulb was defected
18 of 38 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Barbara from BELLEVUE, WA
- Very Difficult
- Less than 15 mins
I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appl
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iance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance
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Oven not holding a consistant temperature. Found the replacement part easily on you website.Thanks to your photo.
10 of 14 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Cindy from Murrells Inlet, SC
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver
First turned off power at breaker box. Pulled stove out to remove the half dozen hex screws on the back panel.(some nuts were stripped)Removed old oven sensor inside oven held by one hex screw and replaced it with the new part. Oven works great now! Repair job was done by husband Mike.
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Broken Outside Oven Door Glass
13 of 24 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Mark from Gardendale, AL
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
The repair took Less than 20 Mins. So easy anyone that is handy should be able to do this with ease. And PartSelect is great to order from Order was placed on a Weekend and order was at my home on Tues! Thats a one day shipping and it was a ground shipment!!! Great Job PartSelect!!!!!! Mark
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Oven door gasket was fraying and started to fall apart.
8 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Zachary from ARLINGTON, TX
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers
1.) I removed the old oven door gasket by taking out the ends of the gasket out of the bottom of the oven door first.
2.) Pry up on each one of the retainer clips, they easily pop out of their slots.
3.) Work your way around the oven door gasket.
4.) If any remain stuck you can just wiggle the clip around and it should po ... Read more p out of each hole. If need be you could use pliers, but I did not need to.
5.) Take your new gasket, it should already have new clips, so you can throw away the old ones.
6.) Work your way around the oven door making sure the clips are nicely seated.
7.) Finish off by inserting the ends back into the 2 holes on each side of the bottom of the oven door, I just used a small spoon to make sure the tops were nicely placed in.
8.) If your gasket needs to compress, you can close the oven door and lock it that should hold it in place and compress it.
9.) All done!
2.) Pry up on each one of the retainer clips, they easily pop out of their slots.
3.) Work your way around the oven door gasket.
4.) If any remain stuck you can just wiggle the clip around and it should po ... Read more p out of each hole. If need be you could use pliers, but I did not need to.
5.) Take your new gasket, it should already have new clips, so you can throw away the old ones.
6.) Work your way around the oven door making sure the clips are nicely seated.
7.) Finish off by inserting the ends back into the 2 holes on each side of the bottom of the oven door, I just used a small spoon to make sure the tops were nicely placed in.
8.) If your gasket needs to compress, you can close the oven door and lock it that should hold it in place and compress it.
9.) All done!
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Heat sensor malfunction
7 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Diane from BUTLER, PA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Socket set
Disconnect power, then remove racks from oven, locate heat sensor by the broiler element. Use ratchet with extension and correct socket to remove the bolt directly under the heat sensor, pull the sensor out till you see the plug, disconnect the plug and then connect new sensor to it push wire back thru and then rebolt the new sensor on,
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thats it...
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Missing Oven Racks
8 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Micala from Tucson, AZ
- A Bit Difficult
- Less than 15 mins
When we moved into our new home I discovered that the oven that came with the home did not have any racks in it. I ordered these racks because they said they were compatible with Hotpoint ovens. However, when the racks arrived they were just a tad too wide to easily slide in the oven. With a bit of force my husband was able to shove th
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e racks in. Luckily I don't cook enough to care if they are moved again because I don't think they'll come out easily.
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Storage Drawer rear support broken
8 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Tiffany from Denver, CO
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Socket set
Tried GE onoine parts department first and ordered the wrong part, then tried the customer hotline and they referred me to the right part but didn't explain that the design had been modified (the drawings had not been updated). I found an explanation on Part Select AND the parts were cheaper. Part Select sent the part, the necessary scr
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ew, and an appropriate instruction manual. Each support took less than a minute to screw in with a socket wrench.
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Cooktop oil fire melted plastic parts; control defaced
12 of 22 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John from Gaston, OR
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Some of the original TO-9 switches were fused by the heat. I made them functional again with a cutter on a rotary tool, but to make the repair properly, I ordered the new control unit and the faceplate graphics. Note the guide tabs at the bottom and right edges when replacing the graphics. Don't plan on reusing your old graphics (unless y
... Read more
ou are a wizard at removing the very strong adhesive).
To gain access to the part, remove the 2 screws (part 715) in the bottom of the control assembly with a stubby screwdriver. Using a nut driver, remove the two screws (part 1000) on the back at the corners, being careful not to drop them behind the oven. Pull out at the bottom, then move the whole unit toward you. Note the position of the wires. A digital photo can help here. Remove the wiring and 4 screws holding the clear plastic TO-9. Put the screws in the new unit in the same holes and rewire. Put the assembly in place top-first and align the screw holes. Finding the same thread placement for the lower screws can be tricky, so start them gently.
To gain access to the part, remove the 2 screws (part 715) in the bottom of the control assembly with a stubby screwdriver. Using a nut driver, remove the two screws (part 1000) on the back at the corners, being careful not to drop them behind the oven. Pull out at the bottom, then move the whole unit toward you. Note the position of the wires. A digital photo can help here. Remove the wiring and 4 screws holding the clear plastic TO-9. Put the screws in the new unit in the same holes and rewire. Put the assembly in place top-first and align the screw holes. Finding the same thread placement for the lower screws can be tricky, so start them gently.
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Element burst into flames, then oven wouldn't heat properly
7 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Gregory from Bethlehem, PA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Socket set
First I shut off power to the unit. Then I removed the oven shelves. Next, I removed the two screws that hold the element in place using a socket ratchet. Then I carefully pulled the element out a few inches. I had some clothes pins with me because I read how some people had problems with the wire leads slipping back into the unit ins
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ulation. When the terminals and wire leads were exposed, I clamped the clothes pins on the wires between the leads and the oven wall so the wires could not be pulled back into the wall. Then I disconnected the wires from the old element. Next, I connected the new element to the wires, removed the clothes pins and gently nudge the element terminals back into the oven wall. Then I put the screws back to secure the element. Finally, I turn the power on and set the oven to 400 degrees. When I saw the element get red hot in a couple of minutes, I knew it was fixed. I've used it several times since then.
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Bake element started on fire.
7 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Maria from Lakeville, MN
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Used a pliers to remove old bake element (2 nuts that none of our socket set would fit). Removed the back panel with screwdriver. Unattached bake element from wires. Then removed old element and put new element in, pulled new element wires through back and reattached to range. Screwed back in the oven with the pliers. Closed up the b
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ack panel with the screws.
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new tea kettle burned out both the element and the control
9 of 14 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Dwight from Warrenton, VA
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Screw drivers
After replacing the dual element and still having a problem with the range, I started troubleshooting the switch. Fortunately, our range has 2 dual burners, and the switches are the same, so I was able to move the switch and see the problem follow the switch (also, using a VOM, I could tell there was a short in the switch).
Since I'd ... Read more already replaced the element, I only had to work on the controls, which are very easy to access.
I carefully documented all the connections (took a couple of pictures as well), and swapping out the switch took almost no time.
Lesson learned - follow the manufacturer's requirement to use only cookware with a flat bottom. This tea kettle only sat flat around the outside edge. That caused both the element and switch to blow. The "hot cooktop" light stayed on constantly, even after the element was replaced.
Since I'd ... Read more already replaced the element, I only had to work on the controls, which are very easy to access.
I carefully documented all the connections (took a couple of pictures as well), and swapping out the switch took almost no time.
Lesson learned - follow the manufacturer's requirement to use only cookware with a flat bottom. This tea kettle only sat flat around the outside edge. That caused both the element and switch to blow. The "hot cooktop" light stayed on constantly, even after the element was replaced.
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