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JCBP720ST4WW General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the JCBP720ST4WW
61 - 75 of 93

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The middle of the element quit working.
  • Ruth Ann from New Columbia, PA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Took the old burner out, tranferred the wires from old to new. Installed the new burner. Works fine.
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The oven temperature could not be controlled
  • Keith from Annapolis, MD
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Socket set
Disconnect the range from the mains. Open the door. Remove the single screw holding the temperature sensor - this is located on the back wall on center and is screwed to the broiler mounting plate. Remove the four screws holding the boiler element and allow it to hang down on the wire; this exposes a space to feed the wire through later. Now move to the back of the range and remove the six screws that hold the central cover plate. Now push the insulation to up out of the way and you can disconnect the temperature sensor, pull it out through front, insert the new one and connect it. Reassemble in the reverse order. Mine worked perfectly!
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burn out switches
  • Thomas from Hinesville, GA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Pull stove out from the wall unplug it remove the old switches and replaced them withe new one. they work just fine.
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F2 reading
  • lynn from sunnyside, NY
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Followed the instructions that were sent to me by E-Mail.
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one burner not working
  • Edwin from HIGHLANDS RANCH, CO
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
Removed two screws to access burner. Removed three power clips from burner, reattached the clips to new burner, removed brace clips and attach to new burner, close lid and reattach stove cover.
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Drawer glider broke about a year ago.
  • loma from Neah Bay, WA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
My wife could open and close the drawer without too much difficulty, but occasionally, it would not close properly and she would have to empty the contents do could alaign it properly to close. The last time she was talking about buying a whole new drawer. I asked her what the part looked like, as I never to fight with it. I went online a nd found the part for $1.16 plus shipping at $8 plus. It was well worth the time and effort, and I now have a happy wife. Paul Parker
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f-2 or f-3
  • daniel from gap, PA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
remove two bolts in on sensor and slip thru back un plug and reverse to put in
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Getting the right stove model number and part number
  • Gerald from San Diego, CA
  • Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Difficulty was in determining the right model number and part number of a switch. Noted that the left front burner came on when the switch for the left back burner was turned on. By inspection I found the left front burner switch had become faulty by actually hearing an electric arc in the switch and smelling the oder in the switch. With help from the person I called I was able to determine that the Model Number on the actual stove was wrong. It had an extra 0 between the W and F which she said was a common error in the GE model number. I then gave the switch number I found on the switch to the contact person and she was able to verify the right part number. It was relatively easy to replace the switch by taking off the back upper plate then taking off two screws that held the switch to the stove. The part came quite quickly once ordered. Sears repair wanted $75 just to diagnose then the cost of the part. I got the switch for $69.
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Dual Burner was not turning off or turning on by itself
  • Michael from North Miami Beach, FL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Pulled the top back panel off, pulled off burner control knob, removed 2 screws which released switch, removed 5 wires from switch and connected them to new switch (pulled off faily easily). Reconnected the 2 screws to range and pushed knob back on. Replaced panel and reconnect the electric. Now works as it should.
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broken light socket
  • James from Monterey, TN
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
The only tool needed was a nutdriver to remove the lamp socket. I needed my head mounted light to see what I was doing, and everything went smoothly from there. Simple job.
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oven not warming, f2 indicating overheat
  • David from Lisle, IL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Removed 4 screws from back panel, disconnected small electricsl connector from sensor, removed one mounting screw from sensor inside oven,pulled wires through and removed old sensor. Fed wires for new sensor through and connected electrical connector, installed panel, installed mounting screw on sensor and checked oven, worked like a cham p. Took 5 minutes.
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Plastic glide broke
  • Mary Ann from Granby, CT
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
The person I spoke to knew exactly what I was trying to describe. The part arrived in 2 days. 5 minutes later the drawer was back in place. I was glad I save the screw as the part did not come with one.
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Oven light wire broken, damaged socket
  • Patricia from Brandenburg, KY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Remove light bail, glass cover held by two nut screws. Pull socket, removed clips in back, replaced wire connectors, placed new socket in, then glass cover and bail. Wire connected in back, cover plate replaced.
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Flashing F2 and erratic temperature readings.
  • Kenneth from Salem, OR
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Unplugged from wall outlet, then opened oven front door. Reached in and removed two screws. Pulled oven sensor threw and detached electrical connector from old sensor. Plugged in new oven sensor and reversed removal procedure. No more Flashing F2 and oven temperature came to ready. Very easy.
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Left front burner would only heat on high setting.
  • Morris from Ardmore, TN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Identified part and part # using schematic found on GE website, contacted PartSelect and confirmed part number, ordered and paid for part. Two days later I recieved part. Unplugged stove, removed two screws on bottom side of front panel and two on top back of same panel, pulled panel forward, pulled the control knob off, removed two smal l screws that hold the control switch in place, situated new control switch next to bad switch and removed one wire at the time from the bad switch and connected to the same terminal on the new switch. Put everything back together and Bingo, works like a new one. Thanks PartSelect for the friendly, personal phone service, the fast shipment and competitive pricing on my part.
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All Instructions for the JCBP720ST4WW
61 - 75 of 93