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JCBP71DP1BB General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the JCBP71DP1BB
106 - 120 of 147

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Shorted Control Unit -
  • Gerald from Plantsville, CT
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Control unit was easy to remove ,wires color coded-the face plate(key pad) needed to be separated from the old unit. Carefully used a hair dryer to warm the decal. . . Secured the old unit gently in a vise, warmed ( and separated slowly, with a razor blade and thin putty knife(patience). . Once removed, applied to the new unit. . . 5 Stars to partselect for service. . . . Turned a $400 repair into $100 do-it your self. Partselect will be my 1st "go to" from now-on.
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Burner Would Not Turn Off
  • BILLY from WEBSTER, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
Replace control switch
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one leg of the terminal block was loose and overheated under load.the terminal block melted and could have caused a fire.
  • brendan from lebanon, NH
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
I took a picture of the setup and damage . I then disconnected the burnt wires and replaced the wires . Then I installed the new terminal block and connected the wires to the proper positions. The reason for the failure was that the delivery people didn't tighten the cord when they installed the stove . I would check the connections per iodically as to avoid another situation like this .
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Drawer glider broke about a year ago.
  • loma from Neah Bay, WA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
My wife could open and close the drawer without too much difficulty, but occasionally, it would not close properly and she would have to empty the contents do could alaign it properly to close. The last time she was talking about buying a whole new drawer. I asked her what the part looked like, as I never to fight with it. I went online a nd found the part for $1.16 plus shipping at $8 plus. It was well worth the time and effort, and I now have a happy wife. Paul Parker
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Range top burners work, but Oven would not. Click flashed and made a clicking noise when trying to turn on the oven, but shut off
  • James from Hope Mills, NC
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
My Range had the issue I mentioned here. I put off the repairs for a long time, but Thanksgiving was around the corner and we needed a working oven. I had made a previous call to repair man and was quoted $75.00 for a service call to come and check the issue. Before calling a repair man back, I decided to pull the rear cover off the range to see how complicated it would be to repair. I removed the rear cover and found that everything was connected to this "Oven Electronic Control" except for the top elements (explaining why they still worked and the oven didn't). This made it seem that this part would surely have to be causing the issue. I did a search on Google and found this company and the part that I needed. The cost of the part was less than the service call for a repair man would have been. I ordered the part and paid for next day delivery. The part shipped on Monday and arrived on Tuesday. For the installation, I had to identify the wiring because the connector layout was a little different. When I looked closely I found that the terminals were numbered the same as the old part. I replaced wire for wire, put it all back together and tried it out. It worked like a champ. I was thrilled to have been able to find the part with schematics on this web site and it was the correct part and fixed the problem. I was also thrilled that I saved a couple hundred dollars fixing it myself and that it was so easy. I would highly recommend this company for the ease of use of finding the part on their web site, the reasonable price and their prompt processing and delivery.
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Replacment of burner control switches
  • Judith from Keezletown, VA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
I watched your video on the subject and followed it exactly. It explained everything I needed to know. The hardest part was CLEANING under the stove once I pulled it out from the wall!
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oven continued to get F2, F3 and F5 error messages when ovewn got hot
  • Ralph from Redding, CA
  • Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
This repair was quite a bit more difficult then what had been described on the web site. First off, I have a double wall oven that is built in. Sliding it out of the cabinet was difficult and because oven was hard wired, I had to disconnect the actual wiring from the oven back. . Positioning the oven and allowing for it to rest on a s upport bench was the most difficult part The oven is heavy. Eventually, removing the back and top panels of the oven revealed the sensor connection. I was then able to feed it through the oven and reconnect all the wiring harnesses.. Getting the oven back in the cabinet was equally a challenge. But it did seem to fix the problem with over heating.
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one burner not working
  • Edwin from HIGHLANDS RANCH, CO
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
Removed two screws to access burner. Removed three power clips from burner, reattached the clips to new burner, removed brace clips and attach to new burner, close lid and reattach stove cover.
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Old dishwasher rack and silverware rack
  • Anne Marie from Andover, MA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
The whole process was very easy! I just got the model number and bought a new rack and silverware holder on,one. There was no assembly needed so I just popped them in and replaced the old ones! Very easy to do!
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Open door. Put racks in.
  • Harriet from Jacksonville Beach, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
nothing to it.
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clock, over control, oven light , timer did not work
  • Robert from Austin, AR
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
remove rear panel cover, removered four screws that held control panel, disconnected colored wires, removed circuit control board, reinstall new board and connected color coded wire to the correct spot on the board, plugged in 220 volt cord, switch on circuit breaker, everything worked normal again
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Oven light wire broken, damaged socket
  • Patricia from Brandenburg, KY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Remove light bail, glass cover held by two nut screws. Pull socket, removed clips in back, replaced wire connectors, placed new socket in, then glass cover and bail. Wire connected in back, cover plate replaced.
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burner control
  • hugh from sun city center, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
installed new burner control w/knob. about 30 min. stove back in place. working fine
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Orange light "Hot Stovetop" lense broke off.
  • John from Woodbridge, VA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Parts arrived in record time and the right parts. The detailed diagram was so helpful in finding exactly the part I needed to order. Was so easy my girlfriend with no mechanical or electrical experience completely helped me through the entire project. She secured the electrical breaker to the range, and I had the top back to the oven r emoved. I showed her how the little white box simply slides off the lens cover, then replaced the new one in the holes and slide it back on. Secured the back and she turned on the breaker back on...and all lights work. Thanks for making this project easy, simple and quick.
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I needed an oven with three racks, mine came with two.
  • BETTY from CYPRESS, TX
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
just slipped it in
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All Instructions for the JCBP71DP1BB
106 - 120 of 147