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JCBP70DP2WW General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the JCBP70DP2WW
106 - 120 of 138

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prior knobs were discolored and ugly
  • Barbara from Sun City West, AZ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
just purchased new knobs. The price was great, just took a little longer to receive then anticipated though.
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I needed an oven with three racks, mine came with two.
  • BETTY from CYPRESS, TX
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
just slipped it in
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Heating Element Burned out
  • Rick from Tombstone, AZ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
The task was very easy. After recieving the replacement I removed 2 small hex head screws using a nut driver. I pulled the slip on connectors apart the reversed the steps. I was done and able to use the oven in less than minutes.
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Plastic glide broke
  • Mary Ann from Granby, CT
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
The person I spoke to knew exactly what I was trying to describe. The part arrived in 2 days. 5 minutes later the drawer was back in place. I was glad I save the screw as the part did not come with one.
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no racks to oven
  • Johnette from Baltimore, MD
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Easily glide in.
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Missing oven rack
  • Damaris from Easton, PA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I opened oven and pushed oven rack inside.
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Bad control board
  • Daryl from Savannah, TN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Removed top back plate of oven. unpluged all of the wiring plugs on the control board. Removed two screws on the control board. Removed face plate from old control board and put it on the new control board. Atteched new board with the two screws. Connected all of the plugs to new board ( all plugs are color coded to board). Re-installed o ven back plate. Pluged oven in. Works great.
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Replaced damaged oven rack
  • Vicki from Irvine, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I ordered the oven rack on a Tuesday and received it the very next day - was wowed at the service.
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Replacment of burner control switches
  • Judith from Keezletown, VA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
I watched your video on the subject and followed it exactly. It explained everything I needed to know. The hardest part was CLEANING under the stove once I pulled it out from the wall!
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Range top burners work, but Oven would not. Click flashed and made a clicking noise when trying to turn on the oven, but shut off
  • James from Hope Mills, NC
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
My Range had the issue I mentioned here. I put off the repairs for a long time, but Thanksgiving was around the corner and we needed a working oven. I had made a previous call to repair man and was quoted $75.00 for a service call to come and check the issue. Before calling a repair man back, I decided to pull the rear cover off the range to see how complicated it would be to repair. I removed the rear cover and found that everything was connected to this "Oven Electronic Control" except for the top elements (explaining why they still worked and the oven didn't). This made it seem that this part would surely have to be causing the issue. I did a search on Google and found this company and the part that I needed. The cost of the part was less than the service call for a repair man would have been. I ordered the part and paid for next day delivery. The part shipped on Monday and arrived on Tuesday. For the installation, I had to identify the wiring because the connector layout was a little different. When I looked closely I found that the terminals were numbered the same as the old part. I replaced wire for wire, put it all back together and tried it out. It worked like a champ. I was thrilled to have been able to find the part with schematics on this web site and it was the correct part and fixed the problem. I was also thrilled that I saved a couple hundred dollars fixing it myself and that it was so easy. I would highly recommend this company for the ease of use of finding the part on their web site, the reasonable price and their prompt processing and delivery.
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Bottom Heating Element not heating up.
  • Wallace from Demorest,, GA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I miss diagnosed the situation at first. When the top element only heated up I thought the control was the problem. Wrong. Apparently both elements heat up during initial start up. It turned out that the bottom element was not working so it needed to be replaced rather then the control. Now both are replaced and the oven is now back to original status. Entire repair cost about $80. I saved over $100 by attempting this myself. Easy fix. Obviously I am not a pro. My local hardware store had a generic heating element that worked just fine and only cost $22. Two screws to repair after removing the back panel. Remember to pull the plug before you begin and after the repair put all panels back on before plugging back in. Pizza anyone?
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Blew the electronic Control Board
  • PETE from MANCHACA, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
It was easy to replace it. Just remove the screws and unplug each wire and plug them back. The problem was to take off the plate cover that has the printed letters on. The plate cover cost more than the Electronic Control Board.
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one burner not working
  • Edwin from HIGHLANDS RANCH, CO
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
Removed two screws to access burner. Removed three power clips from burner, reattached the clips to new burner, removed brace clips and attach to new burner, close lid and reattach stove cover.
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The middle of the element quit working.
  • Ruth Ann from New Columbia, PA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Took the old burner out, tranferred the wires from old to new. Installed the new burner. Works fine.
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All Instructions for the JCBP70DP2WW
106 - 120 of 138