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JCBP67SP4SS General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the JCBP67SP4SS
76 - 90 of 121

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burner was inoperative
0 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • bryan from cocoa, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
verified switch operation , checked continuity of burner element found open ordered new part and installed next day
after extremely fast
service from partselect thank you
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light keep burning out in oven.
2 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • john from Mc Kees Rocks, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
Remove the door. Just open a little and pull up. Removed racks. Removed 3 screws with nutdriver. Pulled out housing. Disconnected 2 wires. Assembled new housing with with bulb receptacle and gasket. Reconnected wires and crimped a little to make them snug. Pushed housing back into hole. Put 3 screws back in, inserted bulb and cover. Slid door back on and done. 30 minutes at most.
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Burner not heating.
1 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jack from Greensboro, GA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Isolated to control switch.

Replaced
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oven continued to get F2, F3 and F5 error messages when ovewn got hot
  • Ralph from Redding, CA
  • Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
This repair was quite a bit more difficult then what had been described on the web site. First off, I have a double wall oven that is built in. Sliding it out of the cabinet was difficult and because oven was hard wired, I had to disconnect the actual wiring from the oven back. . Positioning the oven and allowing for it to rest on a s upport bench was the most difficult part The oven is heavy. Eventually, removing the back and top panels of the oven revealed the sensor connection. I was then able to feed it through the oven and reconnect all the wiring harnesses.. Getting the oven back in the cabinet was equally a challenge. But it did seem to fix the problem with over heating.
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Burner Would Not Turn Off
  • BILLY from WEBSTER, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
Replace control switch
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The electronic board controls failed to illuminate or work after very strong power surge associated with lightening. The stove top burners still worked fine but not the clock and controlls for the oven.
  • Leon from Cullowhee, NC
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
I found a video on Youtube with a similar circuit board repair and decided that I could probably do it. First and most important is to be certain the range is disconnected from its electric circuit. I did this by turning off the breaker at the electrical panel and then unplugging the range. Second, I removed a panel (four screws) on the back of my stove to expose the circuit board, Next I removed the board (four screws) without disconnecting the wiring. Then I removed the flexible plastic covering from the board which has the control button identities on it. This was the most difficult part because the glue was very sticky and I did not want to tear the cover. After removal, I stuck the plastic covering (still sticky) onto the new circuit board and made sure the buttons were in the correct position. Then, I unplugged the wires one at a time from the old circuit board and made sure I plugged them into the new board in the correct position. Finally, I reattached the new board and the back panel on the stove. This repair was easy and no problem for the average "do it yourself" type.
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Shorted Control Unit -
  • Gerald from Plantsville, CT
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Control unit was easy to remove ,wires color coded-the face plate(key pad) needed to be separated from the old unit. Carefully used a hair dryer to warm the decal. . . Secured the old unit gently in a vise, warmed ( and separated slowly, with a razor blade and thin putty knife(patience). . Once removed, applied to the new unit. . . 5 Stars to partselect for service. . . . Turned a $400 repair into $100 do-it your self. Partselect will be my 1st "go to" from now-on.
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Oven Sensor Replacement
  • Barbara from Edwardsville, IL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
The part was just like the old one and would have been an easy fix except our range suffered from a lighting hit. The clips had melted together. Called a dealer and asked about a new wiring harness. He said in those cases just cut the clip off and hard wire with wire clips,or firecrackers. We used wire nuts and taped all together and the oven works just great. Nothing is ever as easy as it should be.
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Mother board was blown
  • Kenneth from Bradenton, FL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
Purchased the board installed it and saved about 130 dollars.
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Drawer glider broke about a year ago.
  • loma from Neah Bay, WA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
My wife could open and close the drawer without too much difficulty, but occasionally, it would not close properly and she would have to empty the contents do could alaign it properly to close. The last time she was talking about buying a whole new drawer. I asked her what the part looked like, as I never to fight with it. I went online a nd found the part for $1.16 plus shipping at $8 plus. It was well worth the time and effort, and I now have a happy wife. Paul Parker
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oven control panel was blacked out..no clock no start.
  • Pam from Daphne, AL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Took out the old control module and removed the sticker and reattached sticker to new part and installed the plugs, put the screws back in and it started working, thankyou so much.
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broken light socket
  • James from Monterey, TN
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
The only tool needed was a nutdriver to remove the lamp socket. I needed my head mounted light to see what I was doing, and everything went smoothly from there. Simple job.
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Blew the electronic Control Board
  • PETE from MANCHACA, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
It was easy to replace it. Just remove the screws and unplug each wire and plug them back. The problem was to take off the plate cover that has the printed letters on. The plate cover cost more than the Electronic Control Board.
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Replacment of burner control switches
  • Judith from Keezletown, VA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
I watched your video on the subject and followed it exactly. It explained everything I needed to know. The hardest part was CLEANING under the stove once I pulled it out from the wall!
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Bottom Heating Element not heating up.
  • Wallace from Demorest,, GA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I miss diagnosed the situation at first. When the top element only heated up I thought the control was the problem. Wrong. Apparently both elements heat up during initial start up. It turned out that the bottom element was not working so it needed to be replaced rather then the control. Now both are replaced and the oven is now back to original status. Entire repair cost about $80. I saved over $100 by attempting this myself. Easy fix. Obviously I am not a pro. My local hardware store had a generic heating element that worked just fine and only cost $22. Two screws to repair after removing the back panel. Remember to pull the plug before you begin and after the repair put all panels back on before plugging back in. Pizza anyone?
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All Instructions for the JCBP67SP4SS
76 - 90 of 121