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JCBP67DP1WW General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the JCBP67DP1WW
76 - 90 of 132

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

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Missing screw to range door handle
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Stanley from TRENTON, NJ
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
The part that was ordered based on the shamanic wasn't the part that was needed for the repair. It was to short. I took the other screw for the other side and that screw was an inch longer than the screw that was ordered thru your company. I then went too a jar that I placed extra screws, nuts and bolts which l keep in my garage . I found a same length screw but a different head and it works perfectly fine. When I ordered the part from your company most of the parts did not have a photo of the part on file, or a description like how long the part is. I still ordered it because it should fit the make and model number that was posted on the shamanic that was showed to me on line.
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replacment of oven door handle
3 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Todd from Cincinnati, OH
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
the part was an exact fit. the instalation of the product was very easy. I just removed the 4 hex bolts and 2 star head bolts and reattached. Instalation took about 10 minutes.
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Water dumped over in in my overhead microwave, which dripped down on, & shorted out a burner switch.
1 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Deanna from Buckeye, AZ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
My husband had already removed the back plate form the stove and detached the wires from the old burner switch because it was keeping the burner on. He unscrewed the old switch and removed it. He then popped in the new switch, attached the wires to the correct contacts, and put the back plate back on. We plugged in the stove, and that burner works good as new.
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fried oven control using raid
4 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kerry from Loveland, CO
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
replaced oven clock control ref maintenance manual, 4 screws and 8 wires. plugged in new control and op checks good.
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burner was inoperative
0 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • bryan from cocoa, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
verified switch operation , checked continuity of burner element found open ordered new part and installed next day
after extremely fast
service from partselect thank you
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eye wouldnt come on
0 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • daniel from valentines, VA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
removed the top section on stove and removed the wires off swtitch and put on new one then put new switch in
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Light burnt out.
2 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Roscoe G from ROCHESTER, NY
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.
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light keep burning out in oven.
2 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • john from Mc Kees Rocks, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
Remove the door. Just open a little and pull up. Removed racks. Removed 3 screws with nutdriver. Pulled out housing. Disconnected 2 wires. Assembled new housing with with bulb receptacle and gasket. Reconnected wires and crimped a little to make them snug. Pushed housing back into hole. Put 3 screws back in, inserted bulb and cover. Slid door back on and done. 30 minutes at most.
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Burner not heating.
1 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jack from Greensboro, GA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Isolated to control switch.

Replaced
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Replacment of burner control switches
  • Judith from Keezletown, VA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
I watched your video on the subject and followed it exactly. It explained everything I needed to know. The hardest part was CLEANING under the stove once I pulled it out from the wall!
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oven continued to get F2, F3 and F5 error messages when ovewn got hot
  • Ralph from Redding, CA
  • Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
This repair was quite a bit more difficult then what had been described on the web site. First off, I have a double wall oven that is built in. Sliding it out of the cabinet was difficult and because oven was hard wired, I had to disconnect the actual wiring from the oven back. . Positioning the oven and allowing for it to rest on a s upport bench was the most difficult part The oven is heavy. Eventually, removing the back and top panels of the oven revealed the sensor connection. I was then able to feed it through the oven and reconnect all the wiring harnesses.. Getting the oven back in the cabinet was equally a challenge. But it did seem to fix the problem with over heating.
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I needed an oven with three racks, mine came with two.
  • BETTY from CYPRESS, TX
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
just slipped it in
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Missing oven rack
  • Damaris from Easton, PA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I opened oven and pushed oven rack inside.
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Bad control board
  • Daryl from Savannah, TN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Removed top back plate of oven. unpluged all of the wiring plugs on the control board. Removed two screws on the control board. Removed face plate from old control board and put it on the new control board. Atteched new board with the two screws. Connected all of the plugs to new board ( all plugs are color coded to board). Re-installed o ven back plate. Pluged oven in. Works great.
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Replaced damaged oven rack
  • Vicki from Irvine, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I ordered the oven rack on a Tuesday and received it the very next day - was wowed at the service.
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All Instructions for the JCBP67DP1WW
76 - 90 of 132