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JCBP63SK2SS General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the JCBP63SK2SS
31 - 45 of 251

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Cooktop oil fire melted plastic parts; control defaced
12 of 22 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Gaston, OR
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Some of the original TO-9 switches were fused by the heat. I made them functional again with a cutter on a rotary tool, but to make the repair properly, I ordered the new control unit and the faceplate graphics. Note the guide tabs at the bottom and right edges when replacing the graphics. Don't plan on reusing your old graphics (unless y ou are a wizard at removing the very strong adhesive).
To gain access to the part, remove the 2 screws (part 715) in the bottom of the control assembly with a stubby screwdriver. Using a nut driver, remove the two screws (part 1000) on the back at the corners, being careful not to drop them behind the oven. Pull out at the bottom, then move the whole unit toward you. Note the position of the wires. A digital photo can help here. Remove the wiring and 4 screws holding the clear plastic TO-9. Put the screws in the new unit in the same holes and rewire. Put the assembly in place top-first and align the screw holes. Finding the same thread placement for the lower screws can be tricky, so start them gently.
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Heat sensor malfunction
7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Diane from BUTLER, PA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
Disconnect power, then remove racks from oven, locate heat sensor by the broiler element. Use ratchet with extension and correct socket to remove the bolt directly under the heat sensor, pull the sensor out till you see the plug, disconnect the plug and then connect new sensor to it push wire back thru and then rebolt the new sensor on, thats it...
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The broiler element wouldn't work.
7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lajuanna from O'Fallon, IL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
After I ordered a new element unit, I read the "do it yourself" review on the page. I took the back off of the range and found the broken wire. I found that I had the same problem with the wiring, and that maybe the element was not the problem. I went to Lowe's and purchased a female spade connector, because no one would sell me one th rough the parts department. All I did was cut off the wire at the end of the burned section, stripped back about 1/2 inch of the wire and put on the new spade connector. I took off the origonal connector/crimp, and slipped on the new one. (You do have to make sure that the wiring doesn't touch the range back) The element was not the problem, so the origonal one still works fine. I may keep the element I ordered, just to have it if this one goes out. I didn't even need to remove the screws from the element inside the oven. It can all be done from the back of the range.
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Oven is off 10 degrees
7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ike from LOGANVILLE, GA
  • Very Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
I changed out the sensor and still same problem. Change out Thermosat and still same problem.
I call the help number and emailed the help but I got nothing but have to many calls because of the virus situation.
Still need help.
I’m an electrician and I don’t want to call a service technician and pay that big bill.
Can anyone there help me out, if so please call.
Ike Stanton
678-525-6644
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The oven did not get up to or hold the correct temperature
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from ARROYO GRANDE, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
This should have been a very easy fix. But, as I tried to pull out the old temperature sensor, the wire would not come out. I was afraid to pull too hard because I did not want to break the wire. So, I coxed it out easily until I could see the plastic connector. Then, the old wire pulled free from the connector leaving the end of the c onnector inside the back of the oven. I then had to fish the end of the wire around with the piece of wire through the very small hole in the back of the oven. Once I got it close to the hole, I was able to grab the connector with some needle nose plyers. Connecting the new sensor and reinstalling everything was easy and the oven now works just fine.
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Oven temperature would not go above 240 degrees
7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Glenn from Grapevine, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Pulled the oven out and unplugged it. Removed five screws and the back cover. Disconnected the electrical connection. Removed one screw and pulled the sensor out. Installed the sensor and screw. Made the electrical connection on the back, replaced the cover and five screws. Plugged the electrical cord back in and tested the oven tem perature compared to the setting. Worked great. My wife then made a small batch of muffins to test it out and they were good.
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F2 error; over heating, unknown reason
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tim from LEAVENWORTH, WA
  • Very Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I just followed the instructions on the link provided with the part
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The oven was not getting very hot because the bake element had stopped working (broiler element was fine).
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Linda from Bella Vista, AR
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers
I turned off the breaker to the stove, took the oven racks out, used my pliers to remove the nuts that hold the bake element in place, then used the pliers to disconnect the old element from the wires in the back of the stove. Connected the new element, screwed the nuts back in, flipped the breaker back on, and turned on the oven. Ten min utes, tops.
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switch went to high setting no matter what the setting was
10 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Frank from Glen Cove, NY
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
took off cover, pulled all wires off switch, pushed wires on new switch, put cover back on. Whalaa..
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the bake element broke
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Daniel from Apex, NC
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I removed the 2 screws and removed the bake element, replaced the new one
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The small burner inside the double burner shortd out.
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • david from PORT ORANGE, FL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
The first thing was to watch U-Tube . The replacement burner was being
replaced in a GE glass top range. Exter tools were required than depicted
in the U-Tube project. The project overall was not dificult for me however I was a general contracter for over 25 years
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Red Light On
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lawrence from DECATUR, AL
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
Red Light Off
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The drawer support broke.
8 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Cindy from Golden Valley, ND
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed the screw from the broken piece and put the new piece on and put the screw on.
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Oven in accurate temp too low.
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joseph from LIBERTY HILL, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Open the oven , remove one screw holding the sensor remove the sensor and replace the sensor.
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When inspecting the back of my oven I noticed the cable had been pushed under (my guess from the mouse I found electrocuted where the power lines come in) and was touching one of the element prongs which burned the covering.
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mary from Bolton, MA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
Not counting unplugging it and taking off the 3 back panels of the oven (< 5 min.) It took < 2min. to change out. Unclipped cable in back, unscrewed one screw inside of oven at top between the two elements and pulled cable through to front, reversed to attach new sensor. Buttoned up the back, plugged back in and was good to go.
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All Instructions for the JCBP63SK2SS
31 - 45 of 251