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JCBP40DM1WW General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the JCBP40DM1WW
1 - 15 of 230

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Oven would go in to a F2 Error
148 of 226 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Peter from stamford, CT
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Removed six 1/4" hex nuts on rear of oven. Then through front/inside removed a single 1/4" hex nut to actually remove sensor. Unplug sensor connector, remove. Reversed steps, push oven back in place and plugged in. Tested oven function.
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The switches failed on both front burners.
97 of 108 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Marc from Columbia, NJ
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Remove nobs from both switches.
Pull out the range (the hardest part).
REMOVE THE POWER PLUG FROM THE WALL
Remove 7 screws with nut driver and take off upper back panel.
Remove 2 phillips screws from front, they hold the switch brackets.
The new switches don't fit in the bracket so discard the bracket keeping the screws.
Removing 1 wire at a time from the old switch transfer to the new noting the letter/number ie "H1 P1" combos they are all there just not in the same places on the new switch.
When wiring is complete, using the bracket ,screws from the front screw on the switches.
Replace the back panel with 7 screws.
In my case the old nobs did not fit the shafts of the new switches. I found some at the local hardware store. I bought 4 for $0.29 each! I expect to be replacing the other burner switches shortly.
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burner was shorting out
47 of 49 people found this instruction helpful.
  • douglas from louisville, KY
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
unplugged unit pulled it away from wall took off the backplates traced wire to plug replaced with part ordered very smooth operation. the most impressive thing to me was i ordered part on computer and it was at my door in 30 hours awesome.
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terminal block melted
56 of 77 people found this instruction helpful.
  • jonathan from willow springs, IL
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The existing terminal block on my Ge oven/Range had melted due to a loose wire causing sparking and starting the plastic casing of the terminal block on fire and melting it, Part select made the part easy to find and had it at my house in 2 days. All I had to do was remove six screws to take the back sheet metal cover off of the oven. U nscrew the terminal connections remove two mounting screws that held the terminal on to the oven body. This was a little trickier than it should have been because the melted plastic had reformed making it very hard to access the mounting screws. i then mounted the new piece and plugged the oven in, it took 15 minutes and was very easy. definitely saved me at-least a $100 for the service call i would have made if finding the part wasn't so convenient
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Burner was constantly at high heat
46 of 51 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Rick from Avon Park, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
I removed the rear cover from the stove then removed the knob and two screws on the front panel that hold the control in place. I then took the wires off the old control one at a time and placed them on the new control. Then I placed the control in position and tightened the two screws on the front panel, replaced the knob and screwed t he back panel in place.
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Oven wouldn't preheat above 300 degrees
54 of 95 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gerald from Cape Canaveral, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Unplugged appliance and removed 5 screws on back of stove/oven and removed plate. Disconnected the sensor and unscrewed it on the inside of the oven. Pulled the cord through and replaced with new sensor. Replaced all parts and plugged in the appliance and tested. Worked great.
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when cooking on the 8" burner it would randomly go high heat.
30 of 33 people found this instruction helpful.
  • kevin from crossroads, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
first slide out range from wall and unplug it. then remove the rear panel, it is about 6 or 8 1/4" screws. remove the selector knob on the front of range and then remove the two philips head screws. this is how you remove the burner controller. hold the new controller next to the od one and one by one take the wires off the old one and pu t them on the new one. re-assemble and you are good to go.
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Plastic drawer support snapped off
30 of 35 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jeff Troiano from Sayville, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
The repair went very easy. The replacement part was designed differently than the original part. It installed on the rear of the drawer with a screw as the original snapped into the side. This was a bit confusing when researching and looking up the part online.
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I kept getting An F2 error and the temperature did not seem accurate
29 of 38 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Chad from Bloomington, IN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
1) pull out the stove
2) remove the 7 sheet metal screws holding the back panel on. (the panel that also covers where the cord splits and connects to the oven.
3) Find the small plastic connector located in the middle of the back of the range and unplug it.
4) open the front of the oven and remove the one screw holding in the oven temp sensor.
5) replace the sensor and make sure to "feed" the new cord through as best you can.
6) I had to dig through the insulation a little bit to find the new wiring harness
7) connect the wiring harness and put the back of the range back on

note: this was very simple to do if you think this might be the problem don't hesitate to handle this one yourself.
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Surface element indicator remained on.
25 of 29 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ed from Plymouth, MA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
The known problem: a short occured between the surface element and the INF switch. After replacing the wire between the surface element and INF switch. The surface indicator light remained on - indicating a power surge/spike. Prior to removing the old INF switch I disconnected the wires from the old switch one at a time and plugged eac h into the new switch terminals. Then I removed the knob from the front of the control panel and the 2 screws holding the old INF switch in place. Removed the old switch and replaced it with the new switch. Reinstalling the 2 screws and the knob. Surface indicator light was no longer illuminated and surface element works fine.
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Broken interior glass of oven door
22 of 29 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Frisco, TX
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Followed instructions and removed door. Loosened screws/bolts. Pulled the door apart. Removed the bracket that would hold the glass. Removed the broken glass and inserted the replacement glass. Re-assembled the door and reinstalled the door. Took all of 20 mins.
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Oven Overheating upto 200 degrees!!
20 of 25 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lee from Greenfield, IN
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Replaced temperature sensor in the oven first ($10 part, always start with least expensive possibility!), but that didn't solve the problem. 5-10 minute repair, not counting moving the range in and out of it's home between cabinets. Next replaced the control board ($90 part) which solved the overheating problem. 15 to 30 minute repair, don't be intimidated by all the wires. Remember to turn off power at the breaker (duh). Order the faceplate graphic ($37 part) because chances are the old one won't peel off cleanly (ours didn't, "I was really careful Honey!!) and the otherwise excellent PartSelect.com website doesn't suggest the part might be needed. Anyway, I saved a minimum of $80 plus Labor by doing it myself. I had the advantage of living about 100 miles from their warehouse and got NEXT DAY delivery from FedEx instead of 3-5 business days. Suggest you order before noon.
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oven would not heat; temperature sensor failed; needed replacement
18 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Roger from MARIETTA, GA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
Replacing the sensor was a snap and not as involved as I feared. 1) open the oven door; 2) remove the one hex screw holding the old sensor to the back of the oven; 3) gently pull the sensor, pulling the wiring out to access the plastic wire connector (carefully guide the plastic wire connector through the opening); 4) loop a small piece of wire (stiff enough to form a hook) around the base of the wire connector to keep the wire from falling into the back wall of the oven; 5) unclip the connector and remove the bad sensor; 6) clip in the new sensor; 7) remove your catch wire; 8) thread the wiring back through the opening; 9)position the new sensor and secure with the hex screw; and 10) turn on the oven and prove to your wife you do know what you are doing!
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Convection oven fan and door light not working
18 of 22 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Albuquerque, NM
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
The first step was to determine whether the problem was with the fan itself or the switch. I did this by opening the back cover and using a Volt meter to verify that the fan was not getting power. (I could have skipped this step.)

Next, I unplugged the range, closed up the back cover and lifted the range hood by removing two he x head screws that are just inside and on either side of the top of the opening in the range door. Propping the hood open, I removed the connector leading to the switch, then pushed the switch out the front. Inspection showed that the switch was damaged so I closed up the range and ordered the part from Part Select. Once the part arrived, it was a 15 minute job to unplug the range, lift the top, install the new switch, and close up the unit.

Caution. On starting to install the switch, I failed to unplug the range and my finger brushed one of the hot contacts leading to the switch. Thankfully, I was not injured. Do not repeat my mistake on this issue. Unplug the range even if you're only installing this simple switch.
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Oven door gasket needed replacement
21 of 32 people found this instruction helpful.
  • JUDITH from DANVILLE, NH
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Replacement was extremely easy. The new part fit perfectly and installed very easily without tools. Also, I received the part within a few days
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All Instructions for the JCBP40DM1WW
1 - 15 of 230