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JCBP35SP1SS General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the JCBP35SP1SS
121 - 135 of 171

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Burner bowls had been used and abused for year gone by in this rental.
  • Diane from Rio Rancho, NM
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Replaced them all. Next I want to replace the burners.
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Oven light wire broken, damaged socket
  • Patricia from Brandenburg, KY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Remove light bail, glass cover held by two nut screws. Pull socket, removed clips in back, replaced wire connectors, placed new socket in, then glass cover and bail. Wire connected in back, cover plate replaced.
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burner control
  • hugh from sun city center, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
installed new burner control w/knob. about 30 min. stove back in place. working fine
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The burner combusted burning the the burner switch
  • Felipe from Donna, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Disconnected the appliacnce from the power source. Using screwdriver, removed the back panel and disconnected every wire that are connected to the switch. Pulled out the front nob and removed the switch. Then install the new switch by screwing it back in. Place all wires back and back panel. Connect and finish.
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bowls were worn out
  • frances from winston salem, NC
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Open the box and inserted the bowls
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Burner Would Not Turn Off
  • BILLY from WEBSTER, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
Replace control switch
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oven continued to get F2, F3 and F5 error messages when ovewn got hot
  • Ralph from Redding, CA
  • Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
This repair was quite a bit more difficult then what had been described on the web site. First off, I have a double wall oven that is built in. Sliding it out of the cabinet was difficult and because oven was hard wired, I had to disconnect the actual wiring from the oven back. . Positioning the oven and allowing for it to rest on a s upport bench was the most difficult part The oven is heavy. Eventually, removing the back and top panels of the oven revealed the sensor connection. I was then able to feed it through the oven and reconnect all the wiring harnesses.. Getting the oven back in the cabinet was equally a challenge. But it did seem to fix the problem with over heating.
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Shorted Control Unit -
  • Gerald from Plantsville, CT
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Control unit was easy to remove ,wires color coded-the face plate(key pad) needed to be separated from the old unit. Carefully used a hair dryer to warm the decal. . . Secured the old unit gently in a vise, warmed ( and separated slowly, with a razor blade and thin putty knife(patience). . Once removed, applied to the new unit. . . 5 Stars to partselect for service. . . . Turned a $400 repair into $100 do-it your self. Partselect will be my 1st "go to" from now-on.
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Oven Sensor Replacement
  • Barbara from Edwardsville, IL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
The part was just like the old one and would have been an easy fix except our range suffered from a lighting hit. The clips had melted together. Called a dealer and asked about a new wiring harness. He said in those cases just cut the clip off and hard wire with wire clips,or firecrackers. We used wire nuts and taped all together and the oven works just great. Nothing is ever as easy as it should be.
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one leg of the terminal block was loose and overheated under load.the terminal block melted and could have caused a fire.
  • brendan from lebanon, NH
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
I took a picture of the setup and damage . I then disconnected the burnt wires and replaced the wires . Then I installed the new terminal block and connected the wires to the proper positions. The reason for the failure was that the delivery people didn't tighten the cord when they installed the stove . I would check the connections per iodically as to avoid another situation like this .
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The electronic board controls failed to illuminate or work after very strong power surge associated with lightening. The stove top burners still worked fine but not the clock and controlls for the oven.
  • Leon from Cullowhee, NC
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
I found a video on Youtube with a similar circuit board repair and decided that I could probably do it. First and most important is to be certain the range is disconnected from its electric circuit. I did this by turning off the breaker at the electrical panel and then unplugging the range. Second, I removed a panel (four screws) on the back of my stove to expose the circuit board, Next I removed the board (four screws) without disconnecting the wiring. Then I removed the flexible plastic covering from the board which has the control button identities on it. This was the most difficult part because the glue was very sticky and I did not want to tear the cover. After removal, I stuck the plastic covering (still sticky) onto the new circuit board and made sure the buttons were in the correct position. Then, I unplugged the wires one at a time from the old circuit board and made sure I plugged them into the new board in the correct position. Finally, I reattached the new board and the back panel on the stove. This repair was easy and no problem for the average "do it yourself" type.
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Burner would not turn off
  • Thomas from Winter Garden, FL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
The burner light did not turn off, and the rear burner stayed hot. Unplugged unit and removed switch, which turned off the "burner lit" lamp. Thus I figured it was the switch that was causing the problem. Ordered the switch (I think around $18 and plugged it in. I think there were 4 screws to get the panel off, and then another 2 to get t he switch off. When I plugged the unit back in (it had been unplugged while I waited for the part to ship) it beeped for a while. I had to turn the breaker on and off, and that solved the beeping problem.
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Large eye would over heat when was on med. settings
  • LEE from ROME, GA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I unpluged the stove pulled it out and took the 6 screws off the back to get to the switch. Around front take knob off and removed the two screws holding the swich in place and pulled it out the back. Pulled one wire at a time off of the old switch and replace on the new switch. Nothing to it had it done in just a few mins.
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Blew the electronic Control Board
  • PETE from MANCHACA, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
It was easy to replace it. Just remove the screws and unplug each wire and plug them back. The problem was to take off the plate cover that has the printed letters on. The plate cover cost more than the Electronic Control Board.
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Burner went to high heat at any setting
  • Robert W from Whitehall, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Thanks to Partselect's instructions the repair went very easy. When I was done and the wife finished cleaning the sides of the stove and the floor behind it, I was surprised after I plugged the stove back in and noticed the clock was only 18 minutes off! Awesome company to deal with, Thanks!
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All Instructions for the JCBP35SP1SS
121 - 135 of 171