JCBP35SJ2SS General Electric Range - Instructions

Turned off circuit breaker to range.
Removed the 2 oven racks. Removed two screws in back of oven compartment. Pulled element forward and the terminal connections get exposed.
The right terminal clip disconnected by itself and the wire went back into the stove and could not be retrieved.
Removed range draw under the oven an ... Read more d pulled entire range out from wall about 4 feet.. Removed metal backing with a socket wrench and exposed the oven element wires and terminals.
Reinstalled new element and metal backing.
Since range was out from wall, cleaned and vacuumed before pushing stove back in place.
Since range draw was out re-leveled by setting adjustable feet.
Reinstalled drawer and racks.
Turned on circuit breaker.
Tested element by setting bake cycle on.

After the element cooled down, I pulled the racks out of the oven, turned off the oven at the breaker box, then, using a nut driver, loosened the screws that held the baking assembly in the back of the oven, and pulled the connecting wires off. I bent the wires to make sure they would stay out, because if they get back in the insulation, ... Read more they are hard to find. I would recommend getting a pair of locking pliers and putting them on the ends of the wires just to keep them from getting back into the insulation. Then I attached the left connection wire and then the right one, pushed them back into the insulation, tightened the baking assembly to the back wall of the oven, turned it back on at the breaker box, then tested the oven to see if it heated up. It did. Total repair time 15 -20 minutes. Would have been less if I didn't have to chase one of the wires back in the insulation. Shamless plug for the company ...By paying extra for 2-day shipping to receive the part, I saved just over $20 from buying it at Sears, which would have had to order the part anyway.

Removed six 1/4" hex nuts on rear of oven. Then through front/inside removed a single 1/4" hex nut to actually remove sensor. Unplug sensor connector, remove. Reversed steps, push oven back in place and plugged in. Tested oven function.

Remove nobs from both switches.
Pull out the range (the hardest part).
REMOVE THE POWER PLUG FROM THE WALL
Remove 7 screws with nut driver and take off upper back panel.
Remove 2 phillips screws from front, they hold the switch brackets.
The new switches don't fit in the bracket so discard the bracket keeping the ... Read more screws.
Removing 1 wire at a time from the old switch transfer to the new noting the letter/number ie "H1 P1" combos they are all there just not in the same places on the new switch.
When wiring is complete, using the bracket ,screws from the front screw on the switches.
Replace the back panel with 7 screws.
In my case the old nobs did not fit the shafts of the new switches. I found some at the local hardware store. I bought 4 for $0.29 each! I expect to be replacing the other burner switches shortly.

removed the oven racks. used a 6.5 mm socket to take out two bolts. pulled out old element and wires through insulation into oven. i used caution during this part i didn't want the wires to disconnect and fall into the oven. once the wires and element was pulled out approximately 3 inches. i used two magnet clips that hold papers ont ... Read more o the refrigerator and clipped both wires so they wouldn't go back into the stove. disconnected the element from the wires and connected the new element to the wires. pushed wires into the back of the oven and tightened the two 6.5 mm bolt. done in 10 minutes. turned oven on to 400 degrees and let same pre heat. a little smoke will come from the new element which is normal. works fine now.

repair took about 30minutes total tiem..first turn off power to stove..then open oven removed racks..used nut drive to loosen top two screw hold element..then remove screw hold temp sensor element...then removed two screws holding broiler element...then removed the top screw ...then pulled element out about 7 inches to expose wire connect ... Read more ion..held on with spade lugs.. pulled wires off...element now free to remove ...placed spade lug on new element...put element in pace with top two screws..loosely...then did rear screw that held temp element and broiler element...then tighten all screws ..turned on power..did 15 sec test to make sure wired properly..then 5 minutes to operating temperature... job done...hardest part was crazwling in and out the stove...old bones..

1. Removed the oven door -- this is a little tricky -- you need to lift to small metal covers on the hinges, then pull the door up and out from the broil (half open position). Replace the door the same way. It is important to insert the hinges with the door in the "broil" position, and after verifying that the door is aligned and closes ... Read more normally -- then lift hinge covers to lock in place.

2. After door is removed the glass assembly can be removed and replaced by unscrewing two long (2-3 inch long) screws at the top. And three hex head screws at the bottom of the door. Note -- there is no need to removed the six screws (3 either side) on th ebottom of the door -- because these only hold the hinges to the door. The other 5 screws that you do need to remove actually hold the two halves of the door together.

3. Replace glass assembly and reassemble.

It is not so hard but you need "star" screwdrivers for the long screws... (not philips -- but 6-pointed stars), and a socket wrench is useful for the bottom 3 hex head screws...

If I were to do again it would only take me 15 minutes.... but I messed up by removing the hinges unnecessarily so it took me an hour.

My husband had turned the oven on to cook something and didn't know that I have a plastic tray in there. Well, needless to say I needed to get some new oven racks. I tried to get them through the manufacturer (GE). They were 68$ each. I thought that was a bit steep, so I looked online. I decided to order through PartsSelect. Well...they ... Read more can 2 days later (the week before Christmas!!)and were a PERFECT fit.
Between the price, shipping speed and quality I will
definitely buy from again and recommend this site to everyone I know!!!!

Oh yeah, I work for Sears too. we have access to all sorts of parts....this site is the BEST for prices and delivery speed!!!!

After removing the back of the range the oven control board was visible and accessible by removing four nuts. There was some resistance removing the leads from the oven coils and light-bulb mechanisms but with some leverage and pliers they came loose. The only challenge was the face plate of the unit is attached using adhesive and neede ... Read more d to be carefully peeled off and added to the new oven control board. Getting this right was just a matter of taking time and lining up the components correctly. After applying the face, the new control board went right in. I reattached the back, plugged the unit back in, and the over has worked great for the past week. Part select being able to identify the part numbers listed from the component likely saved me at least $100 of having a GE certified repair technician come in.

After I got the right part(I ordered the wrong one at first, my fault) it was simple to remove the old element, 2 screws and push on termilnals, and replace with perfectly fitting new part. Word of caution, turn off the breaker to stove. I found that the element line is hot even if the control is off!

unplugged unit pulled it away from wall took off the backplates traced wire to plug replaced with part ordered very smooth operation. the most impressive thing to me was i ordered part on computer and it was at my door in 30 hours awesome.

I removed the rear cover from the stove then removed the knob and two screws on the front panel that hold the control in place. I then took the wires off the old control one at a time and placed them on the new control. Then I placed the control in position and tightened the two screws on the front panel, replaced the knob and screwed t ... Read more he back panel in place.

called service co. and described problem while i was looking at parts diagram and he agreed with my feeling what part got fried. he told me the part would be 183.00 plus labor and drive time. when i told him i was looking at the part on line for 65 dollars he hung up on me. i recieved the part and was slightly dissapointed to know there ... Read more was a sepperate adhesive overlay. i saw that it was a sepperate part but if i knew it was adhesive i would have spent the extra 20 dollars for a new one. but, to my surprise the old one peeled off easily and gently re-apllied it to the new conrol board alighning it well seemed to be the trickiest part of the job. took the five wires with connectors out of the old one and inserted them into the same place on the new one. removed the old one from the frame (4 pan phillp sheet metal screws) and then screwed the new wired control board in. plugged in the unit and pressed the bake button and then mixed the brownie batter. replaced the back panel cover. 65 dollars and 15 minutes.

thanks

bob

Very easy repair. The gasket ends are stuffed into slots right below the oven window and the gasket is held in with small wire clips that pop into holes in the door. Just pull the old gasket off, no tools. Install the gasket starting by stuffing one end into the slot mentioned above until the first clip lines up with the first small hole. ... Read more Then insert each successive clip into the corresponding holes. Then use a slot screwdriver to stuff the other end of the gasket into the second slot. No sweat.

Unplugged appliance and removed 5 screws on back of stove/oven and removed plate. Disconnected the sensor and unscrewed it on the inside of the oven. Pulled the cord through and replaced with new sensor. Replaced all parts and plugged in the appliance and tested. Worked great.