JCBP23DM2WW General Electric Range - Instructions

Very easy repair, Pulled burner coil out, removed old burner bowl. Put in new burner bowl, plugged burner coil back in... easy as 1,2,3

Removed burner element and put in bowl

First I slid the stove out and unpluged it, then removed two screws,slid out element, disconected two wires, slid new element in to place, pluged two wires in ,put into place and installed two screws, pluged stove back in, and turned on to try. Works perfect.

Pulled out burner and put new bowls in. Looks like a new stove!

Took 5 minutes to replace the 4 bowls. Ordered the bowls one day & they arrived the next day All went perfect.

1)Turn off power to stove
2)remove 2 bolts holding heating element
3)pull element out of the back of the oven about 8" so that the wire connects is visable
4)pull wire clips off of heating element and remove element from the oven
5)put wire clips on the new heating element
6)push new heating element back into the holes in the back of the oven
7)screw botls back into the oven holding the heating element in place
8)Turn power back on

The existing terminal block on my Ge oven/Range had melted due to a loose wire causing sparking and starting the plastic casing of the terminal block on fire and melting it, Part select made the part easy to find and had it at my house in 2 days. All I had to do was remove six screws to take the back sheet metal cover off of the oven. Unscrew the terminal connections remove two mounting screws that held the terminal on to the oven body. This was a little trickier than it should have been because the melted plastic had reformed making it very hard to access the mounting screws. i then mounted the new piece and plugged the oven in, it took 15 minutes and was very easy. definitely saved me at-least a $100 for the service call i would have made if finding the part wasn't so convenient

Removed rear panel, disconnected wires, unscrewed switch X2 - installed new parts in reverse order. Note: Would have appreciated new mounting screws with replacement switch.

Per the instructions included with part.

Removed screws using nut driver. Pulled element way forward until wires came through. Pondered how to detach burned out element from wires. Chickened out, call neighbor who grasped things firmly with two hands and pulled. Old element came loose. Popped in new element. Cursed the screws that wouldn't align with holes to support element; finally did it. Screwed element plate in place. Put oven door back on, plugged it in and turned it on hoping that we hadn't reversed the wires. Job accomplished.

My husband did it, we unplugged the stove first then he removed the damaged element replaced it with the new plugged it back in and we were in buisness. I like that this was an acutual part for my stove(not some universal thing) and it arrived very quickly.

Removed oven from cabinet. unblug old sensor pluged in new and reinstalled oven. Esay repair though wish oven was designed so did not have to pull itout of cabinet which requires disconect electric cabel

I downloaded the installaion manual from the web for this model. First htings first, I located the circuit breaker for the oven and turned it off. Removed the lower trim piece from the bottom, next lifted the oven door off its hinges and set it to the side. I then wrapped a couple of small towels around the hinges for the door as per the manual (the hinges can pinch a finger). I then removed the four screws which secured the oven into the cabinet. Next I slid the oven forward allowing me access to the rear. I removed the pieces from the rear to gain access to the sensors connector, and unpl;ugged the sensor. Went around to the front and unscrewed the 2 screws securing the sensor and removed it. I then installed the new sensor, replaced the rear covers, slid the oven back into the cabinet, secured the four screws, snapped on the lower trim, remounted the oven door, and turned the breaker on. Oven working fine now.

I was very pleased with how quickly the new oven rack arrived and it was a perfect fit. Thanks.

Here's how I fixed my problem.
I took the aluminum cover, the part that sits over the jet & the igniter, which simply comes off. It's the part that the igniter discharges to. I took this cover off & using a pencil I scratched the lead of the pencil into the area
which is around the igniter. I made sure to cover the area with as much lead as I could get on it. You need to make sure that you do this to all four burners. The only care you need to take, is not to block the gas jet which is in the igniter recess. It's been about 3 weeks since I added this & the burners click loudly & have lit without a problem. It appears that the aluminum may develop a coating on it of some kind which is highly resistive.