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JBS86SP5SS General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the JBS86SP5SS
31 - 45 of 114

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When inspecting the back of my oven I noticed the cable had been pushed under (my guess from the mouse I found electrocuted where the power lines come in) and was touching one of the element prongs which burned the covering.
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mary from Bolton, MA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
Not counting unplugging it and taking off the 3 back panels of the oven (< 5 min.) It took < 2min. to change out. Unclipped cable in back, unscrewed one screw inside of oven at top between the two elements and pulled cable through to front, reversed to attach new sensor. Buttoned up the back, plugged back in and was good to go.
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Light not working tried to Remove light assembly not knowing glass could screw out. Without thinking grounded exposed hot wire to burner bracket melting light socket connector. Had to replace socket.
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from CUMMING, GA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
First and most important trun off curcit breaker. Use 1/4 inch but driver to remove socket (2) screws. Remove ground and hot wire clips from old socket, replace on new socket. Screw back into oven ceiling and turn on power. Reset clock and your are done. Very simple.
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Interior burner of right front dual burner was out
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • MARK from PHOENIXVILLE, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
Initially replaced the switch on the range--a simple job--pull the wires one by one and place them on the new switch. This did not resolve the problem, which meant that it was the burner, not the switch. I left the new switch in place and ordered a new burner. This, too, was simple, but involved creating a detailed drawing of the switch c onnectors rather than photos, which, because of the crossing of similarly colored wires, might have been confusing. The only hitch was that the burner is attached to the top by indented clips that fit into pegs at numbered locations on the burner. The clips were very difficult to open and situate, but once done (and this step was the only one where a second person was required) the top was closed and screwed back in place (two screws) and it worked perfectly.
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Inside burner did not heat
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Roberto L from LAUREL, MD
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Disconnect old burner and reconnect new one
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Wife broke the interior window by splashing water on it while heated to 450.
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dennis from GRETNA, NE
  • Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Well I did it all wrong from the get go. I did finally do a search on how to replace it and then it was quite easy. Learn from me, watch video and save yourself tons of hassle.
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12" Haliant Element would only work on the outer ring.
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William from RICHMOND, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Watched repair videos on YouTube to prepare. The repair was very easy.
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GE oven showed "F2" error code and was over-heating
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kyle from AURORA, CO
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
I am not the handiest person in the world, and this repair was easy even for me. If you suspect that the temperature sensor is the problem, do yourself a favor and buy this inexpensive replacement part and install it yourself prior to calling a professional who will charge a service fee just for checking it out. Pull your oven out from the wall so you can access the back. Unscrew the small nuts on the back to remove the sheet metal cover. Find the wire that goes to the sensor and unplug the plastic coupling. In the oven, unscrew the one nut that secures the sensor to the back wall of the oven. Pull the broken sensor out and replace it with the new sensor. Feed the wire through to the back and plug the new sensor into the same wire that was just disconnected. Reinstall all of the nuts. Do a "test cook" on some frozen food to ensure that the temperature seems correct (i.e., does it cook as expected in the recommended amount of time). The actual repair takes less than five minutes. I put "30-60 minutes" to account for unplugging the oven, pulling it out, removing the screws, replacing the screws, pushing it back in, and testing the temperature.
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Light indicator ON (won't turn off)
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Cornell from LANCASTER, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Replace Element Radiant 9 inch dual is very easy.
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the temp was not accurate
7 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • scott from new harmony, UT
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
had to remove the oven from the wall. once i realized that i had to take the side wall brackets off before removing the oven it was quite easy. then just had to remove oven door and slide the unit onto a chair while replacing the sensor. put it all back in and the wife was so happy to have her oven back she made me a batch of brownies. yu m.
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burner inside element not working
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Daniel from BURLINGTON, MA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Being a front burner, I used a 24 in piece of wood to hold up range top. After removing to screws holding top. Made note of numbers on old burner and wire locations. Took off wires and three spring clips. Then replaced with new in numbered locations , wires next
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Oven slow to heat.
6 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Scott from Burleson, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
First I removed the 4 screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches. I removed the sensor and disconnected the connector.
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F2 fault code kept appearing on oven
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • emmett from rocky mount, NC
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Removed the oven door and shelves. Moved the oven out from wall, so that I could access the rear panel. Unplugged the oven. Removed the five (5) screws holding the rear panel in place and removed the panel. Disconnected the sensor at the connector. Removed the screw holding the sensor in place inside the oven and removed the sensor. Thea ded the sensor wire through the rear of the oven wall. Installed the sensor and screw to hold it in place. Snapped the connector from the sensor to the mating connector at the rear of the oven. Installed the rear panel. Installed the five (5) screws to hold the panel. Plugged the oven back in and slide the oven back to the wall. Installed the oven shelves and the oven door.
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wire connection to socket was bad
6 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Gansevoort, NY
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Disconnected the old socket ( 2 srews ) removed the two wires from the old socket, reconnected them to the new socket and reinstalled the lamp.
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Broken inner window
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • randy from LORETTO, TN
  • Very Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Watched video
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temp sensor in oven was failing.
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Chad from FRANKLIN, NC
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
I picked the least expensive and most likely issue with our oven that was not indicating a correct oven temperature. I am sure with a 15+ year appliance that the circuitry is on its way out but wanted to give this a try to avoid a new appliance purchase. Oven pre-heat setting takes much longer to finish with the age of the oven. However, after the new sensor the oven will maintain a more even temperature for the cycle.

Removal of the sensor from the inside of the oven is a bit awkward since it is located between the broiler elements at the back but a nut driver was the correct tool and worked fine. A bit stuck with the heating of the connection but pretty simple to replace. Must remove the back first to uncouple the connector. Simplest part of the repair.

At best a temporary fix for a an appliance this old.
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All Instructions for the JBS86SP5SS
31 - 45 of 114