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JBS86SP2SS General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the JBS86SP2SS
91 - 105 of 138

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Water dumped over in in my overhead microwave, which dripped down on, & shorted out a burner switch.
1 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Deanna from Buckeye, AZ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
My husband had already removed the back plate form the stove and detached the wires from the old burner switch because it was keeping the burner on. He unscrewed the old switch and removed it. He then popped in the new switch, attached the wires to the correct contacts, and put the back plate back on. We plugged in the stove, and that burner works good as new.
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oven was not getting up to temp
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • walter from townshend, VT
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Once I opened up the back of the range, the sensor wires where there and burnt just like your info said. One nut to take off in the oven and the sensor came right out and the new one went right in. The oven works great, cooked the turkey today. The worst part of the repare was the cleaning behind and under the range, it hasn't moved since it was put in 6 years ago. Very pleased with PS.
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F2 error when oven was heating up, along with a beeping noise and then it shut off
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lori from Paris, TN
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Unplugged oven, turned off breaker, took cover off back of oven, removed old sensor by disconnecting in back of oven and undoing screw inside oven. Pulled old one out replaced with new took 15min. Cost me less than $20. Parts Select rocks! Even received part in two days with standard shipping!
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eye wouldnt come on
0 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • daniel from valentines, VA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
removed the top section on stove and removed the wires off swtitch and put on new one then put new switch in
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burner was inoperative
0 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • bryan from cocoa, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
verified switch operation , checked continuity of burner element found open ordered new part and installed next day
after extremely fast
service from partselect thank you
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Light burnt out.
2 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Roscoe G from ROCHESTER, NY
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.
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F2 error code
0 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • jud from gatesville, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Really easy fix. Unplug oven. With a 5/16 nut driver take the 5 screws out of the center long tin cover and remove. Unplug little white temperature sensor plug located between broil heating element. Open oven door and remove one screw holding temp. sensor using same nut driver and simply pull out old sensor. Install new sensor. It's tha t easy. No more f2 been working like a champ!!!
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Burner not heating.
1 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jack from Greensboro, GA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Isolated to control switch.

Replaced
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Burner Would Not Turn Off
  • BILLY from WEBSTER, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
Replace control switch
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one leg of the terminal block was loose and overheated under load.the terminal block melted and could have caused a fire.
  • brendan from lebanon, NH
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
I took a picture of the setup and damage . I then disconnected the burnt wires and replaced the wires . Then I installed the new terminal block and connected the wires to the proper positions. The reason for the failure was that the delivery people didn't tighten the cord when they installed the stove . I would check the connections per iodically as to avoid another situation like this .
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The oven temperature could not be controlled
  • Keith from Annapolis, MD
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Socket set
Disconnect the range from the mains. Open the door. Remove the single screw holding the temperature sensor - this is located on the back wall on center and is screwed to the broiler mounting plate. Remove the four screws holding the boiler element and allow it to hang down on the wire; this exposes a space to feed the wire through later. Now move to the back of the range and remove the six screws that hold the central cover plate. Now push the insulation to up out of the way and you can disconnect the temperature sensor, pull it out through front, insert the new one and connect it. Reassemble in the reverse order. Mine worked perfectly!
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f-2 or f-3
  • daniel from gap, PA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
remove two bolts in on sensor and slip thru back un plug and reverse to put in
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Oven slow to heat up
  • Joe from Harkers Is., NC
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Removed oven door. Removed 2 screws from heat sensor on rear upper wall of oven. Pulled unit out to access rear of unit. Removed six screws on shield on back of unit. Dis connected heat sensor wire and pulled old sensor through from inside of oven. Feed wire of new sensor through from inside and plug in. Everything in reverse. I also had the gas(propane) company come out and check the pressure coming out of the "low pres." regulator. It was low, they changed the regulator.
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oven temp. was not what setting called for
  • John from Acme, WA
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver
turned oven off, pulled oven out from wall, removed back of oven, unscrewed sensor from oven replaced with new sensor, put back on, turned power to oven on, tried oven at 425, my temp. gage and the oven temp matched. a very easy fix.
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Oven temperature was low when reading was correct
  • Orion from Vancouver, WA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
First of all, the sensor had the proper ohm reading...at ambient temperatures. I suspected the sensor because it would jump in large degree increments over 200°F. From what I read online, the only other part that would cause this was a faulty circuit board. I opted to try the $20 part first vs. the $200 part. It worked. One screw on the b ack top of the inside is all that holds the sensor in. Pull the wires out and you will find a quick-disconnect. New part had the same connector (thank you). Thread the wires back through the hole and replace the screw. Works like a champion (verified with an independent thermometer. That is all she wrote. I only wish I purchased two, since they don't last that long... 4 years...or so. I just bought the house built in 2007 and empty for a year... and it took 45 minutes to cook a pizza, and even then the bottom dough was light. A house without an oven is like a hot dog without mustard!
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All Instructions for the JBS86SP2SS
91 - 105 of 138