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JBS55DM2CC General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the JBS55DM2CC
46 - 60 of 346

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Bottom element burned up and it was a little scary. Never seen this happen.
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from West Lake, OH
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Un plug the power first.

Took the old element out and removed two nut holding the element in place. Remved back access panel on the back bottom of the unit. Disconnected wiring to part pulling the clip off of the connector.

Done fixed saved the house call.
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The oven did not get up to or hold the correct temperature
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from ARROYO GRANDE, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
This should have been a very easy fix. But, as I tried to pull out the old temperature sensor, the wire would not come out. I was afraid to pull too hard because I did not want to break the wire. So, I coxed it out easily until I could see the plastic connector. Then, the old wire pulled free from the connector leaving the end of the c onnector inside the back of the oven. I then had to fish the end of the wire around with the piece of wire through the very small hole in the back of the oven. Once I got it close to the hole, I was able to grab the connector with some needle nose plyers. Connecting the new sensor and reinstalling everything was easy and the oven now works just fine.
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F2 error; over heating, unknown reason
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tim from LEAVENWORTH, WA
  • Very Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I just followed the instructions on the link provided with the part
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Oven temperature would not go above 240 degrees
7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Glenn from Grapevine, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Pulled the oven out and unplugged it. Removed five screws and the back cover. Disconnected the electrical connection. Removed one screw and pulled the sensor out. Installed the sensor and screw. Made the electrical connection on the back, replaced the cover and five screws. Plugged the electrical cord back in and tested the oven tem perature compared to the setting. Worked great. My wife then made a small batch of muffins to test it out and they were good.
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Lower Element Open
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • ROBERT from TEGA CAY, SC
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
Removed the 2 screws on plate. Pulled wires forward. Simply detached slide on connecters and inserted new element. Pushed back and installed plate. Dont forget to unplug the 220 volt. Though open can ground wires.
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Element burnout.
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ronald from ENFIELD, CT
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Having done this replacement before, it was very easy. My advice to anyone having a similar case is to approach the connections from the back of the stove by removing the center back panel for easy access to the connection terminals.
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bake element
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • margaret from hastings, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
took 2 screws out of the element, then too the back off pluged in the element replaced two screws done
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Bake element wouldn't heat
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Leanne from Huntington, IN
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
Removed the two screws that hold the element in place, then I disconnected the two wires and pulled the element out. I ordered the part and received it within two days. It was very easy to install. My oven was tunning in less than half an hour.
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Burner kept heating even when it was turned off, needed switch replacement
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from DERRY, NH
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
1) REMOVE ELECTRIC PLUG FROM OUTLET. 2) Pull oven away from wall. 3) Remove the 3 machine screws holding in the top piece of sheet metal. 4) remove top piece of back sheet metal 5) pull knob of the front of the switch. 6) remove the two screws holding the switch to the front of stove. 7) remove wires (needle nose is helpful) one at a time and put them in the same location on the new switch. 8) put new switch into location on the stove and screw in the two front screws. 9) replace sheet metal on the back and screw in the 3 machine screws that hold it in. 10) plug in stove and move it back into position 11) put the knob back on the front and test it to make sure it works ok. 12) be sure to remove power if you need to do open the stove again to correct anything.
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Original terminal block plastic shielding melted, protecting appliance when the wires overheated.
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Brian from DOVER, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
Safety first * Unplugged 220 VAC from outlet. Removed shield cover screws with 1/4" hex nut driver (5 screws). Removed all 6 silver screws from terminal block with 1/4" nut driver, freeing all wires. Removed the green ground screw and ground bracket from center terminal. Cut away (using the drill) melted original terminal block plastic to access the 2 black 1/4" nuts holding original terminal block onto appliance. Discarded the original damaged terminal block. Attached the new terminal block, aligning the mounting holes and the terminal block the same way the original terminal block was lined up and re-used the black 1/4" nuts (original used because the replacement package did not include new black screws). I bought a new appliance cord, since the original cord overheated. Reattached all wires using the 6 new silver screws. Start with the middle terminal by attaching the appliance wires and the ground bracket. The ground must be attached to the bracket and the bracket bridges between the terminal block and the range body. Reattached shield cover. Plugged in appliance. Note: it doesn't matter which outside wire attaches to the outside terminals (both are hot), but the middle wire (neutral) must attach to the middle terminal. However, the ring terminal should be flush on the terminal block so you don't bend the ring.
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Oven in accurate temp too low.
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joseph from LIBERTY HILL, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Open the oven , remove one screw holding the sensor remove the sensor and replace the sensor.
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When inspecting the back of my oven I noticed the cable had been pushed under (my guess from the mouse I found electrocuted where the power lines come in) and was touching one of the element prongs which burned the covering.
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mary from Bolton, MA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
Not counting unplugging it and taking off the 3 back panels of the oven (< 5 min.) It took < 2min. to change out. Unclipped cable in back, unscrewed one screw inside of oven at top between the two elements and pulled cable through to front, reversed to attach new sensor. Buttoned up the back, plugged back in and was good to go.
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Shorted the control panel changing bulb without shutting off power dumbass
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Stephen from BELLINGHAM, MA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Replaced control panel after removing original control panel facing with heat gun and Wala
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GE oven showed "F2" error code and was over-heating
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kyle from AURORA, CO
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
I am not the handiest person in the world, and this repair was easy even for me. If you suspect that the temperature sensor is the problem, do yourself a favor and buy this inexpensive replacement part and install it yourself prior to calling a professional who will charge a service fee just for checking it out. Pull your oven out from the wall so you can access the back. Unscrew the small nuts on the back to remove the sheet metal cover. Find the wire that goes to the sensor and unplug the plastic coupling. In the oven, unscrew the one nut that secures the sensor to the back wall of the oven. Pull the broken sensor out and replace it with the new sensor. Feed the wire through to the back and plug the new sensor into the same wire that was just disconnected. Reinstall all of the nuts. Do a "test cook" on some frozen food to ensure that the temperature seems correct (i.e., does it cook as expected in the recommended amount of time). The actual repair takes less than five minutes. I put "30-60 minutes" to account for unplugging the oven, pulling it out, removing the screws, replacing the screws, pushing it back in, and testing the temperature.
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Oven control panel shorted while remove a broken lightbulb from the oven
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Terry from SEATTLE, WA
  • Very Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
I removed the new control panel from its packaging and noticed that the button overlay was not included. I grabbed a putty knife and carefully loosened the adhesive on the old panel and was able to apply it to the new control panel. After installing it I looked up the number of my old panel on the included paperwork and simply entered the “profile” number after powering up the new one and It worked perfectly. I was very relieved to not have to buy a new range!
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All Instructions for the JBS55DM2CC
46 - 60 of 346