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JBS45DF2WW General Electric Range - Instructions
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Replace Oven light socket and light bulb in kitchen Range
6 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Ronald from TUCSON, AZ
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
1) Turn off power at circuit breaker panel
2) Slide out Range from wall
3) Unplug Range
4) Remove back panel and unplug electrical connections to socket
5) From front of oven, remove glass cover over old oven light bulb and remove flange that holds socket and bulb
6) Remove old socket from mounting flange and disc ... Read more ard.
7) Place new socket into mounting flange
8) Screw mounting flange and new socket into the oven from front. Reattach electrical connections from back.
9) Screw in new light bulb from front
10) Replace existing glass cover over new light bulb and snap wire holder in place
11) Replace back panel
11) Plug in range
12) Slide range back to original position
13) Turn on power
Works like a charm! Thanks for having the parts after 30 years!
2) Slide out Range from wall
3) Unplug Range
4) Remove back panel and unplug electrical connections to socket
5) From front of oven, remove glass cover over old oven light bulb and remove flange that holds socket and bulb
6) Remove old socket from mounting flange and disc ... Read more ard.
7) Place new socket into mounting flange
8) Screw mounting flange and new socket into the oven from front. Reattach electrical connections from back.
9) Screw in new light bulb from front
10) Replace existing glass cover over new light bulb and snap wire holder in place
11) Replace back panel
11) Plug in range
12) Slide range back to original position
13) Turn on power
Works like a charm! Thanks for having the parts after 30 years!
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The oven was not getting very hot because the bake element had stopped working (broiler element was fine).
6 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Linda from Bella Vista, AR
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers
I turned off the breaker to the stove, took the oven racks out, used my pliers to remove the nuts that hold the bake element in place, then used the pliers to disconnect the old element from the wires in the back of the stove. Connected the new element, screwed the nuts back in, flipped the breaker back on, and turned on the oven. Ten min
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utes, tops.
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We had been searching for burner bowls for our GE range (10+ years old) and could not find replacements for them. I found the burner bowls we needed on partselect.com . I was able to easily place the order and the burner bowls were delivered to me the next day.
7 of 11 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Marlene from Rancho Murieta, CA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
No repair necessary, but the service was excellent!
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I needed new drip pans
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Carol from Brookfield, WI
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
I lifted out the burners and took out the old drip pans ans then replaced the burners. However the 8 inch pans were bigger than the old ones and they do not fit properly. They are sitting on top of the stove and not inserted like they should be. I will have to look elsewhere to find ones that fit.
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Original terminal block plastic shielding melted, protecting appliance when the wires overheated.
6 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Brian from DOVER, PA
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
Safety first * Unplugged 220 VAC from outlet. Removed shield cover screws with 1/4" hex nut driver (5 screws). Removed all 6 silver screws from terminal block with 1/4" nut driver, freeing all wires. Removed the green ground screw and ground bracket from center terminal. Cut away (using the drill) melted original terminal block plastic to
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access the 2 black 1/4" nuts holding original terminal block onto appliance. Discarded the original damaged terminal block. Attached the new terminal block, aligning the mounting holes and the terminal block the same way the original terminal block was lined up and re-used the black 1/4" nuts (original used because the replacement package did not include new black screws). I bought a new appliance cord, since the original cord overheated. Reattached all wires using the 6 new silver screws. Start with the middle terminal by attaching the appliance wires and the ground bracket. The ground must be attached to the bracket and the bracket bridges between the terminal block and the range body. Reattached shield cover. Plugged in appliance. Note: it doesn't matter which outside wire attaches to the outside terminals (both are hot), but the middle wire (neutral) must attach to the middle terminal. However, the ring terminal should be flush on the terminal block so you don't bend the ring.
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Mice had destroyed the top of the insulation leaving dropping and shredding pad
6 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Regina from EVERGREEN, CO
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
I lifted the top of the range, pulled out old insulation (which was gross!), pulled out two wires (grounding, I think?) replaced with new insulation, reinserted wires and wahla! Done!
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Broiler not working
6 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Teresa M from denver, CO
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver
Turned off electricity. Removed two screws that held the element in back of oven. Removed the two screws that held it up to top of oven. Disconnected the two wires that held it in the rear of the oven. Removed it from the top support. Replaced the old element with the new in the support. plugged it it, replaced all four screws. Turn
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ed on the electricity and turned on the oven-it worked!
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the bake element broke
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Daniel from Apex, NC
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
First I removed the 2 screws and removed the bake element, replaced the new one
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burned out broiler element
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Amanda from Thornton, CO
- A Bit Difficult
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Don't forget to unplug and/or turn off the main breaker!
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I needed another oven rack. It came with two. Now I have three.
6 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Frank from N ROYALTON, OH
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
I cut the box open with a utility knife and removed the grill. I then opened the oven door and rearranged the two existing racks so that the third one would go in so they all have the same distance between each of them. I slid the new rack into position. It didn't go in smoothly though as I had to push it in and out several times so that
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it would line up perfectly. Finally in went in all the way. Then I closed the oven door and went and sat down to think about the wonderful job I just did.
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The element split open and burned out
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Thomas from Houston, TX
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Socket set
I unscrewed two screws inside the over over the element. Then I slowly pulled the element out and unplugged the two wires attached. Afterward I pushed the element back in place and screwed it back in and was done. Sure saved $550 I thought I might have to spend on a new oven,
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change broiler element
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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lee from bethel, CT
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
removed 2 1/4in. drill screws holding broiler element to oven removed 2 1/4in.drill screws holding broiler element to top of oven removed female spade connectors ffom old element and reversed assembley very easy
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Broiler element was sparking
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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jeff from NEENAH, WI
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
I removed oven door so i could reach easier. Then removed screws from Broiler element at the back of the oven. Pulled off connected wires. Slid wire connectors on new element and screwed bracket in.
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old one did not fit right
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Pat from PALM BAY, FL
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
took the old one out and dropped the new one in, replaced the electric burner and done
thw worse part was paying as much for s&h as i did for the part itself
thw worse part was paying as much for s&h as i did for the part itself
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Front Large Most Powerful Burner's Block had broken so it didn't heat
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Martin from plainfield, CT
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Pliers
This electric stove has a lift up top which I lifted to get at the block and follow the wire back to the terminal at the back of the the stove. I removed the 5 small lag screws holding the back in place, removed the backing followed the wires back to where they connected in the Stove On/Off Control, disconnected the two wires from the co
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ntrol and then laid the new part in place rethreading and reconnecting the wires. I reinstalled the block and ran a test to ensure the burner operated correctly. After successful testing I disconnect the old block holder by removing the small lag screw, replace it with a new one that came with the replacement terminal block. I then inserted the block into the new holder carefully rolled up the excess wire and wrapped it in a couple of places with electrical tape and also secured it to the side of the stove, out of the way of operation with electrical tape, put the top down, plugged it back in and put it back in place. All told the repair took about 40 minutes. I was impressed with the speed of delivery, the quality of the product, the instructions for installation and the added bonus of getting a terminal block holder as part of the repair kit! Thank You for making me look like a genius!
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