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JB850SP2SS General Electric Range - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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Flashing F2 and erratic temperature readings.
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Kenneth from Salem, OR
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
Unplugged from wall outlet, then opened oven front door. Reached in and removed two screws. Pulled oven sensor threw and detached electrical connector from old sensor. Plugged in new oven sensor and reversed removal procedure. No more Flashing F2 and oven temperature came to ready. Very easy.
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Left front burner would only heat on high setting.
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Morris from Ardmore, TN
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Identified part and part # using schematic found on GE website, contacted PartSelect and confirmed part number, ordered and paid for part. Two days later I recieved part. Unplugged stove, removed two screws on bottom side of front panel and two on top back of same panel, pulled panel forward, pulled the control knob off, removed two smal
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l screws that hold the control switch in place, situated new control switch next to bad switch and removed one wire at the time from the bad switch and connected to the same terminal on the new switch. Put everything back together and Bingo, works like a new one. Thanks PartSelect for the friendly, personal phone service, the fast shipment and competitive pricing on my part.
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oven not warming, f2 indicating overheat
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David from Lisle, IL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
Removed 4 screws from back panel, disconnected small electricsl connector from sensor, removed one mounting screw from sensor inside oven,pulled wires through and removed old sensor. Fed wires for new sensor through and connected electrical connector, installed panel, installed mounting screw on sensor and checked oven, worked like a cham
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p. Took 5 minutes.
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Switch Burned Out
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Jerome from Fyffe, AL
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Unplugged range popped the switch out the front and one wire came off and fell down in there but was able to get it out with a pair of needle nose pliers and then snapped the switch back in after putting the wires back on
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Center Of Knob Broken
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Wayne from Blakely, GA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
No repairs-----new knob ordered & recieved
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Old Element Cotrols were sparking due some type of Electrical Short
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Steven from Boerne, TX
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Unplugged the stove, removed the back control cover, removed the Element Control Knob on front, removed the two screws holding the control in place, pull one wire of old control and connected to the new control - one at a time to ensure proper placement, re-attached the screws, control knob, back cover, plugged in stove, and repairs were
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completed in less then 15 minutes for both controls.
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Other Parts Used:
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Dual burner on range stopped working.
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Robert from Estero, FL
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Changed out the burner with a new replacement and it still didn't work. The socket on the old burner had a burn mark on it. The infinite switch operated sloppy not crisp like the other burners.Ordered a replacement online. Moved the range away from wall and cabinet and shut off electric at panel box. Removed upper back panel. removed swit
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ch knob and 2 screws holding switch. Compared electrical connections of both switches and saw that they were different. Read instructions which were included with new switch and found diagram for connecting old lead to new lead correctly. After all leads were connected, remounted new switch powered up and tested OK.
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Oven temperature was low when reading was correct
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Orion from Vancouver, WA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
First of all, the sensor had the proper ohm reading...at ambient temperatures. I suspected the sensor because it would jump in large degree increments over 200°F. From what I read online, the only other part that would cause this was a faulty circuit board. I opted to try the $20 part first vs. the $200 part. It worked. One screw on the b
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ack top of the inside is all that holds the sensor in. Pull the wires out and you will find a quick-disconnect. New part had the same connector (thank you). Thread the wires back through the hole and replace the screw. Works like a champion (verified with an independent thermometer. That is all she wrote. I only wish I purchased two, since they don't last that long... 4 years...or so. I just bought the house built in 2007 and empty for a year... and it took 45 minutes to cook a pizza, and even then the bottom dough was light. A house without an oven is like a hot dog without mustard!
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Burner not operational.
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Gerald from Philadelphia, PA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Disconnected power supply. Removed damaged element by releasing retainer clips and unplugging wire contacts. Replaced with new element.
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gasket on door was brittle
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Barbara from Bethesda, MD
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
I feel like Macho Mom. I called in the repair guy since I was afraid of dealing with the gas. HE repaired one item but could tell I was comfortable fixing things and pointed out that the gasket was brittle and would cause major problems if not replaced. Took longer to order the part than do the repair, don't know what I was afraid of!
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The stove-top knob broke
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JUDITH from COLORADO SPRINGS, CO
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
I pushed the knob into place. No tools, approximately 30 seconds and good as new.
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Orange light "Hot Stovetop" lense broke off.
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John from Woodbridge, VA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Pliers, Screw drivers
Parts arrived in record time and the right parts. The detailed diagram was so helpful in finding exactly the part I needed to order. Was so easy my girlfriend with no mechanical or electrical experience completely helped me through the entire project. She secured the electrical breaker to the range, and I had the top back to the oven r
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emoved. I showed her how the little white box simply slides off the lens cover, then replaced the new one in the holes and slide it back on. Secured the back and she turned on the breaker back on...and all lights work. Thanks for making this project easy, simple and quick.
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f-2 or f-3
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daniel from gap, PA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Nutdriver, Screw drivers
remove two bolts in on sensor and slip thru back un plug and reverse to put in
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F2 reading
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lynn from sunnyside, NY
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
Followed the instructions that were sent to me by E-Mail.
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My upper oven, lower heating element burnt out .
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John from Salem, NH
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver
Shut off power to oven. Removed upper oven door and cooking racks. Removed 2, 1/4" bolt, pulled element away from oven back wall and unplugged the 2 wires that went into the heating element and removed the element. Reinstalled the new element by plugging in the 2 wires to the element, pushing the wires back through the back of the oven an
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d reinstalled the 2, 1/4" bolts. Reinstalled the cooking racks and oven door. The complete from start to finish time took about 15 minutes.
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