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JB680SP5SS General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the JB680SP5SS
61 - 75 of 149

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Oven would shut down while baking. Stove top would work.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tom from ELIZABETHTON, TN
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Replaced Electronic Control Board. Very easy to do with a nut driver and a screw driver to remove the old one. You may need a pair of needle nose pliers to remove Connector TB100 and TB101. Just squeeze the bottom of tabs to release connector. I also found that in the process of removing the Control Board label that it may rip in certai n areas even while using a razor blade, so be prepared to purchase a craft paint brush and craft white paint to touch up the back of the label. It took 2 coats but looks like new..

The replacement Control Board works as advertised and I now have my oven working again. Save yourself the cost of a Service Company coming into your home just be prepared to do a bit of painting on the old label because it is really glued down and the new control board does not come with a new label.
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Noisy, slow convection fan motor
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Doug from RED FE LKS, CO
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
Used the schematic on the website to order part and disassemble/reassemble with new fan motor. Works like new.
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Inner glass broke
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mark from OLIVE BRANCH, MS
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
Removed torx screws for door handle as well as torx screws for both hinges to separate the door halves to extract broken glass and to install new glass panel. Other reviews said not to remove hinge screws, however I had no problem reinstalling them.
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Stove was not getting enough power.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Nathan from Wells, ME
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
My stove didn't seem to be getting enough power for the oven to heat up and the burners to get hot enough. When I checked the connection of the electric cord I found that one of the 3 terminals that the plug connects to was broken off. When the new part came I removed the old part by first disconnecting the 3 wires [black,white(ground),r ed] and then using a small but long 1/4 socket (that I found at Lowes)I removed the 2 screws that held the old part to the stove and the green screw under it holding the flat copper piece that also connects under the white ground wire of the part. I mounted the new piece on with the 2 1/4 screws. The new part comes with a piece of copper that is for grounding the part to the stove. When I compared it to the old part it was a little different. I first screwed the copper piece onto the stove (under the part) with the green screw then I screwed the white wire over the copper piece to the center terminal(you have to make the hole of the copper piece line up to the screw hole). I connected the other 2 wires and then connected the electric cord to the new terminal block and then put the back cover back on the stove and plugged it in. The clock came on I turned on the four burners they all got hot and red. I turned on the oven the element on the bottom got red I then turned on the broiler the top element got red. My stove is fixed.
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Just didn't work no pwr to it
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jerry from HOPEWELL, VA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Killed braker first, removed four screws from back, then unplugged all the wiring, then removed four screw that hold the unit on stove, pealed off the face decal, put that on the new on and just reversed the take off press.
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Stove overheated with an F2 error
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from PHOENIX, AZ
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Removed screws holding temp sensor, pulled wire out from behind wall until found connector, disconnected old sensor.
Measured resistance of old sensor and compared with new sensor, they measured nearly the same. Installed the new sensor and tested the stove. Came up to temp ok. No problem since, about 2 weeks.
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Broken rear drawer support
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jesse from Knob Noster, MO
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Installed the new brackets at the back of the drawer with the 2 screws provided. The new rear mount design is much better than than the old side mount.
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lens snapped off on the inside-plug was left loose
3 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • RICKEY from MONTROSE, NY
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
popped out the remainder of old lens, then pushed in new ones and slipped on plugs.
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Replacing handle spacer
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Sherry from SAINT PAUL, MN
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
This one is simple. unscrew a portion of the door, install the spacer and screw back together. Worked well.
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The storage drawer came without supports.
2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dock from Aurora, CO
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
I just removed the drawer and installed the rear supports as instructed on paper included with the part.
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Not Reaching Temperature above 300 Degrees
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Ron from SAN TAN VLY, AZ
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Take off 6 screws of back cover of the range, unplug the white wire. Go to the inside of oven, pull out racks. At the top of the oven is your Broiler element, in the center you will see a rod sticking out with one screw holding it in place. Take out screw and pull temperature sensor out toward you. Reverse steps to put it back together.
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Bad Line fault displayed on range clock
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Vincent J Paola, from GREENWEL SPGS, LA
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
1. Unplug the range power cord from the outlet.
2. Moved range away from the wall and countertop.
3.Using a nut driver removed the 2 screws on each side of the removable panel on the back side of the control knobs and clock.
4. Using a phillips head screwdriver remove 2 screws on top side of the back side panel.
5. Usi ng a nut driver remove 4 screws that secure the main control board in place.
6. Take photo of the wiring on the main control board if not color coded.
7. My control board, and the replacement board were both color coded with the color with the wire placement on the rear of the board.
8. Remove wires with needle nose pliers.
9. Using a hair dryer, heat the plastic control panel face plate that fits onto the front of the old control board.
10.With a putty knife carefully pry the face plate from the old control board.
11. Install the control board face plate onto the new control board.
12. Install the color coded wiring in place on the back side of the control board.
13. Replace the control board into the range, and install screws, and rear panel of the range.
14. Plug cord into outlet and test range for proper operation.
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oven door gasket needed replaced
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Mary from LONGS, SC
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Ordered the part, it arrived and 5 minutes later it a complete installation
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Oven board went out
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Jackie from TICKFAW, LA
  • Very Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers
One wire at at time then used my razor blade to get front off stuck right back on
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Plastic guide Broken
9 of 25 people found this instruction helpful.
  • NICK from Vernon, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
replaced Plastic Guides
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All Instructions for the JB680SP5SS
61 - 75 of 149