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IRP33801 Inglis Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the IRP33801
76 - 90 of 241

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R/Front Range Element would not change to Med or Low setting. Stayed on full hot and burned food.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from KENNEWICK, WA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
I disconnected power cord from house current. Removed back panels (2). I then removed round knob on front of range. I then removed the 2 screws holding the switch in place. After doing that, I gently removed the actual switch itself from back of face panel. I then separated the 2 elements of the switch.

I took new replacement switch and reinstalled the 2 parts of switch and placed back into hole in face panel. I reinserted the 2 front screws that holds the switch in place. I put the selection knob back on. However, the knob does not fit tightly. The shaft on the switch itself is to long, but the switch works fine. You do not even know that knob sticks out further than before. I plugged unit back into house current and tested range element to see if it works. It did so with no problem. I then replaced rear panels and secured all screws back to their original location and that was all there was to it.

No problem. Was a fast and effective installation.
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Impossible to do by yourself. Make sure that you have a second set of hands.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from S MILWAUKEE, WI
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
Put the bottom of the glass in first then put the top half into the brackets in the door handle. Holding it in place with your extra set of hands tighten it down with the two screws from inside the oven door into the back of the handle. The door will be open a lot so be extra careful not to let the door close onto your hands or fingers. A lso remember patience is a virtue.
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the fastener became loose and dropped into the stove
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • George E from OCALA, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
This is a cook stove that is used 5 months a year. We have not fixed it yet because we are now in Florida the stove is in New York. We ordered that part just before we left NY for FL so the repair will be done in June of 2021.
George Clark
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Burner didn’t work right
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ralph from MARION, OH
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Replaced switch. Works right now.
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could not control the temp of the element
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Steve from GREENBRIER, TN
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
take off back panel, simply unplug the old switch and plug in the new one. Simple
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the oven temperature was not working right. I installed a new oven sensor. Works get now
3 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Rosalind from APOLLO, PA
  • Very Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Watch the video...
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temp level uneven
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Paul from HARMONY, MN
  • Very Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
after watching the video, installed the temp sensor. Super easy
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oven light kept burning out instantly
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • David from ENID, OK
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Replaced the oven light with a new one but it burnt out as soon as I turned it on. Therefore I decided a new socket may help.

My whirlpool apparently has the old style socket which is pictured in partselect part #PS12584564. The old style socket has to two metal arms that retain it against the metal reflector.

The part that will come (#PS12584564) however is the new style that whirlpool has changed to, apparently. It is not as pictured. The socket and the reflector have different retention devices.

I used screw drivers to bend the two metal arms away to release the socket. Then I had to use allen wrenches to bend the reflector's retention tabs away.

Once I had the old socket, reflector, and lens replaced I just followed the video on partselect for part #PS12584564
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oven door sagged & wouldn't close properly
9 of 25 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jeff from Palm Beach Gardens, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Took off oven door removed all screws to get old hinges out. Replaced with new hinges and put the door back together.
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Cooktop on and cooktop hot indicator lights stayed on.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • MICHAEL from FOUNTAIN INN, SC
  • Very Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Range surface element control switch was bad. Replaced the switch and every thing works fine. Removed two Philips head screws in front and two Philips head screws in back of the range. Pulled the front panel away from the back of the range with the power off of course. Unplugged the wires and removed the two screws that held the switch in . Replaced the switch and refastened the control panel. Tested the switch and every thing worked fine.
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broken rear drawer glides
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Jeff from Manhattan, KS
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
just replaced the broken glides with the new ones.
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Removing an heating element that burnt into .
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Jenny from GREENFIELD, IN
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Unplugged oven , removed screws ,pulled wires out, removed old element , just hooked wires up , screws .make sure it sits level plugged in. Works great
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2 Service Elements Didn't Work (Didn't heat up)
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Roseann from MEADVILLE, PA
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Unplugged old elements and plugged in new ones
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Element had burned out, and the drawer glides were broken .
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Allen from ASHLAND, PA
  • Very Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Replaced both .
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Oven Elementwas burnt into
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Fred from APACHE JCT, AZ
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Watched the video and did as shown
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All Instructions for the IRP33801
76 - 90 of 241