HTDX100GD0WW Hotpoint Dryer - Instructions

The video of the dryer lint chute assembly showed the man without gloves. I didn’t wear gloves. When I disconnected the wire from the front panel assembly, my hand jerked and hit the side of the panel. It must have been razor blade sharp, because I got a deep cut. Advise people to wear gloves to protect hands from sharp metal.

Pulled the unit all apart to replace the rear drum bearing. Also replaced the front bearing. Works like brand new. Easier then I thought

pull top and front of dryer (6 screws), take belt off drum and pull drum out the front of dryer. Take the three star head screws out of stainless heat vent inside of drum and take old bearing housing out of back wall of dryer housing. Pretty much self evident putting everything back in, some trouble installing new bearing housing in bac ... Read more k wall of dryer, screws are hard to turn in by hand (new hole). Vacum inside of dryer housing, install everything the way in came out, , plug it in and WA-LA.

Replace the front and rear bearings. When I have to do it again I will only order (3106), (313), 2x (316) green, 2x (316) white, and drive belt. Taking it apart and putting it back together was easy. Unplug the unit. Take out the 2 philips screws that hold on the top. Lift the top from the front to clear the locking tabs in the back and t ... Read more ake it off. Take out the 2 5/16 screws that hold on the front. Tilt the front (door) forward and rest the drum on the dryer sides, you'll see it. Disconnect the wiring harness for the light and door switch, 2 wires. Lift the front off the bottom retaining clips and place aside. Have someone hold up the drum. Reach under and unhook the drive belt. Pull out the drum assembly. Take off the rear bearing, 3 screws. Clean out the heating element area in the back of the dryer while you have a chance. Replace the bearing assembly. I bought the entire bearing assembly but I could have gotten away with just the sleeve ( 3106), but I didn't know that at the time. Take off and replace the drive belt. Lock the tension arm for the drive belt into the compressed position shelf holder by the motor, push the arm down, you'll see it. Replace the drum and have someone hold it up while you rehook the drive belt and release the tension arm. Now, I would suggest replacing the entire front bearing. If the slides have been bad for a while, the plastic bearing (housing) is probably worn out and cracked. I had to order a front bearing assembly because the new slides wouldn't work with the worn out assembly, no big deal, it came quick. Unscrew the light bulb. Slowly pull the assembly away from the top of the front metal panel, slowly, and pay attention to where everything lines up. Replace the new front bearing and put the new slides on the little plastic tabs, be careful so you don't snap them off. Green on top, white on the sides. Replace the lightbulb. Set the front panel into place on the tabs at the bottom of the dryer. Rehook the door wires (2), and have someone hold up the drum while you slide the front bearing into the drum. Holding the front panel in place, turn the drum by hand and check for binding, things that don't sound or look right. Replace the 2 nuts to hold on the front. Plug it in, keep your hands back, turn it on, look, listen, everything fine. Open door, unplug, replace the top and the 2 screws that hold it on. Plug in, turn it on and check for any noise, you shouldn't hear any. If you do, you didn't do something right or maybe your drive pulleys are bad. A good dad and son job; especially getting on the ground and reaching under to deal with the drive belt. Watch out for sharp edges on the sheet metal and be slow and careful with the front plastic bearing so it doesn't snap. Your now good for 5 more years. A 2 on the difficulty scale, just take it slow and have an extra set of hands.

I had already replaced the four (4) small wear strips which were like short strips of teflon, and the squeaking decreased almost completly. I noticed that front side of the drum itself had started to wear through the actual plastc drum bearing, but I hoped having previously replaced these tefon strips that would be the overall fix.
W ... Read more rong again... after a few weeks the squeeking continued until I ordered the new drum bearing and replaced the worn one with the new one. I was able to re-use the previous teflon wer strips, and it's like new now at least the squeaks are gone,

The actual fix was a very simple remove old drum bearing, snap in new drum bearing install old teflon wear strips put four screws in top, and front panel and I was back in business

i ordered parts before taking the dryer apart, based on the symptoms others described so that i would have everything i needed. sure enough once i pulled the panels off, the drum slides and entire bearing were destroyed. i assume that happened with age, and ignoring the problem didn't help. by the time i replaced the parts I'm surprised t ... Read more he dryer drum was actually still turning at all!

The front panel has wear and tear, as was the drum bearing with broken pieces. To buy a new dryer would be several hundred dollars. A repairman told us it is not worth trying to replace the front panel. I found part select and ordered the required parts. All in all my cost is just over 200 dollars and I have a like new dryer. The front pa ... Read more nel does not exactly fit my dryer (I guess my dryer is older) so I had to drill two holes to fit the bottom catch plate. I followed the video instructions. It was easy.

On my 80th Birthday my son and I replaced the timer. We removed the screws from the back panel. Disconnected the dryer from the electrical outlet. Removed the knob from the front panel. Pulled out the timer and took a picture of the wires connected to the timer. Then we transferred each wire one at a time from the old timer to the new t ... Read more imer. Then we replaced the timer and reconnected the knob on the front. Closed the front panel. Replaced the back. Then for the moment of truth: we set the timer for a few minutes and pushed start. A few minutes later the buzzer went off and the dryer stopped. And we both screamed and praised the Lord. We had never done anything like this before

Removed that to screws for that top first and door shake top little to that front and I took two screws on that top each side and removed that front and lint trap and install the new

I just removed old parts And put the new part on it was very easy to do.

I am a 55 year old woman who likes to repair household items. I followed You Tube instructions and did it all by myself. A few screws to get the top off and a two more to remove the front piece. Trap duct assembly was cracked and falling apart. Pulling off the old was fairly easy. I watched the You Tube instructions on my Ipad so I co ... Read more uld rewind and watch as I did it. The hardest part was I dropped one of the screws when placing the front of the dryer back on and had to find another one that was the same size. Luckily I have lots of old screws in my tool box, If you like to do small simple repairs to save some money this is an easy one.

Originally I thought that the Start switch was the issue, and ordered one. After taking the machine apart and running some tests, the issue was clearly not this switch, but a different switch that cuts power when the belt tension is no longer being applied to the idler pulley spring. I fixed this by bypassing this switch, which in my op ... Read more inion, is error prone and serves no purpose. The switch can be accessed by removing the control panel, then top cover, then front cover, then drum. The bogus switch is screwed to the bottom left, near the motor. The idler pulley spring rests against it. Just disconnect the switch wires, then clip, strip and crimp then together to bypass the switch, and voila! Now if the belt breaks or comes off the pulley, the motor will continue to run, but you wont hear the wet clothes flopping around, so that will be the indication that you have a belt problem. Hope that helps!

-- Unplug dryer from electrical outlet
-- Open Door
-- Remove two screws going up into the top panel
-- Remove top panel
-- Close door
-- Remove two screws holding front panel
-- Remove Front Panel by turning out, keeping left side close to unit since wires are still connected.
-- Vacuum out all loose ... Read more dust/lint
-- Tilt old Drum bearing toward you to remove.
-- Remove Old Felt Drum Seal
-- Install drum Slides on new Drum Bearing
-- Install new Drum Bearing, make sure it clicks into place securely.
-- Install new Felt Seal, make sure to push in far enough to securely hook to the clips on the bottom of the Drum Bearing.
-- Reinstall front and top panels
-- Plug in electrical
-- Dry

With the help of doityourself guy on the internet

I read the other repair instructions on this site and looked at the parts diagrams. It wasn't entirely clear how everything came apart but once I started by unscrewing the top of the dryer and removing it (screws were just inside the dryer door) it was easy. Unscrewed the front panel next , swung it out, and it was quick work to install ... Read more the new bearing with the slides. It wasn't too clear in the parts diagrams but I did need two each of the dryer drum slides and front dryer drum slides, four total, two on each side of the drum bearing. The dryer had been running on the old drum bearing itself, the old slides had worn completely down and the bearing itself was starting to disintegrate too. If I'd caught it sooner I could have reused the bearing and just replaced the slides. Saved a lot of $ and the dryer is nice and quiet again!