HTDX100EM7WW Hotpoint Dryer - Instructions

1st - removed the two screws inside the front door panel. They are somewhat hidden up underneath so you may have to look for them. 2nd - I removed the top of the dryer cabinet by lifting it out of the clips holding it in place. 3rd - removed the two screws (one on each side) in the o=uppper corner of where the side panels connect the fron ... Read more t panel. These are about 3/4" phillips head screws. Then the front panel could be moved to one side of the dry. 4th - remove the drum by lifting it up and out the open top area. 5th - add the new belt to the dryer tub (rib side towards the drum) and replace dryer tub to its original position. 6th - reaching in underneath the tub you need to pull the ideler pulley toward the center of the cabinet while laying the belt on the "outer side" of the ideler pulley and at the same time fitting the belt over the small pulley located on the motor. Once that is done, you reassemble in reverse order and should be good to go.

I received the replacement part I ordered from PartSelect.com within 3 days of placing the order. I opened the plastic bag it came in. I snapped the part into the holes left vacant by aforementioned abscence of broken part.

Used an allen wrench to remove the heat deflector and used allen wrench to replace it with the new one. HINT!! Do not lean on the inside of the dryer!!!!!!

Took the few screws out replaced the part then put it back together.

My husband took top off back and went in that way and it was simple to fix. Thank youi

took out broken filter and replaced with new lint
filter.

Unplug dryer, remove screws and panel. Take picture of dryer motor so you will put wires back the same way . Remove screws using Allen wrench, then unplug wires put the new motor on secure, then put wires back on. View the photo make sure the wires are the same. Then plug your dryer back up. And Happy drying..

Took the top and front end of the dryer off. Took the old slider spacers off and installed the new ones. I replaced all four of them even though only two was bad. While I had the dryer open I decided to use my shop vac to clean up the lint that had accumulated there. Replaced the front and the lid plugged it up, hit the start no noise j ... Read more ust like new.

Washer/dryer belongs to a friend. Originally, the problem was that the dryer wouldn’t heat, so I opened it up, and removed the drum thinking it might be the heating element. It wasn’t, and the ohm reading confirmed this. It turned out to be a burnt wire connector to the element ( unknown to me, and found out later, was that the start swi ... Read more tch had remained continuously in the down position because the switch was pressed too far down and thus remained locked “on” in place under the surrounding cabinet frame. This, in my opinion, caused for a continual call for heat and thus burnt the wire.)

I replaced the burnt wire/connector and reassembled. Now the dryer would heat, but would only run if the start button was continually depressed. Let go of the button, and the dryer stopped.

Repair pros suggested a new start switch. I bought a new start switch along with a new interlock switch (it basically shuts off dryer if belt breaks because lack of a belt releases pressure on the pulley that keeps switch depressed.) Apparently they can go bad, too.

It turns out neither of these switches were bad. Instead, upon further inspection, after the first installation of the drum belt, the L-shaped bracket which holds the pulley for belt tension became dislocated from its correct position and was not allowing for the depression of the interlock switch, causing the dryer to “read” broken belt, and thus, not run.

I loosened the motor bracket to allow placing the bracket in the correct position. Reassembled and all was good.
PSA - almost every sheet metal edge is razor sharp.
In the process of returning parts. Now in the process of returning parts.

I just pressed the latch with my thumb, the latch went in, and voila....job done. Thank you

Removed the broken handle from the dryer and popped on the new one.

From behind the dryer remove the panel directly behind the timer assembly (6 phillips head screws).
Take a picture at this point of how the wires are attached to the timer assembly for reference during reassembly Then remove wires with pliers. Remove T10 Torx screw that retains the timer assembly in place. Remove timer Knob ( ... Read more pull forward). Rotate timer assembly to pop it out.
From here, twist in new timer, use T10 torx to hold in place re-attach wires and reinstall rear panel

There are 2 switches that should be pressed in when you move the handle to lock door, the switches usually go bad with time. Just take the six screws off on the inside of door, then remove screw on the underneath part of handle. The switches are located on the top part under a piece of 1 inch metal plate held in by a screw, remove that an ... Read more d you'll see the 2 switches, test the button on each one to see if it goes in and out, you'll hear the click to. Just unplug bottom first then the top if you need to replace the top one. Thats it.

Ordered new lint filter, received it in 2 days, removed old filter, snapped in new filter, patted myself on the back .

The part was delivered in record time. That was the best part. And it fit perfectly and was the correct color. The other filter was grey and the dryer is white. Thanks for being so efficient.