EasyApplianceParts is now PartSelect! We've merged our sites to provide a better shopping experience for you.   Full Details
✖

Find Parts

Parts Departments

Top Model Types

Top Brands

Repair Help

Expert Repair Videos

Keep typing for more specific results...

HTDP120GD2WW Hotpoint Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the HTDP120GD2WW
16 - 30 of 600

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Squeaking Dryer - Rear Drum bearing gone bad
32 of 35 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jason from Cary, NC
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
First, I loosened the the top control panel and then loosened the top flat roof panel which allowed me access to the inside of the dryer. Then, I removed the front panel which allowed access to the drum. I was amazed at the amount of lint that was inside the dryer itself. Most of my time was spent in the disassembly and cleaning of the in ternal cavity around the drum. I reached below the drum and removed the belt from the pulley wheels and then unscrewed the drum (from the inside) from the back of the dryer and bearing kit. I removed the diffuser and cleaned it thoroughly. Then I replaced the entire drum bearing kit - the old one was almost completely dissentigrated. I probably should have applied some kind of non-flammable lubricant to the new bearing kit - the instructions did not include this step but after about 3 loads a slight squeak (different). I put everything back together - applying the new drum kit will require 2 sets of hands (my 9-year old daughter did great at this). I re-assembled the dryer and it works great, again except for the slight squeak that's still there. I may disassemble it again and apply some lubricant but I do not know what kind to get; I need to check that out.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Deflector was covered in burnt something.
39 of 57 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from San Antonio, FL
  • Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Wrench set
Deflector has 3 bolts attaching it. They require a star wrench. Had to purchase same to do the repair. Removed the bolts(they are sheet metal type screws(bolts). Installed the deflector and started dryer. Loud rubbing sound noted. Shut off and checked the drum and noted it was not running concentrically. Removed deflector and the found th e 3 screws actually retained the drum to drive. Had to make alignment pins to allow proper alignment of the drive, drum, and deflector. Once the pins were used during installation of the deflector everything worked correctly. Turned on dryer and it operated normally.
Had I had the proper tools the repair would probably have taken 30 minutes or less.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Heat deflector was covered in melted plastic
35 of 51 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Charles from Alexandria, VA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Socket set
Someone I'm related to by marriage accidentally dried a plastic-coated tablecloth on high heat, and our heat deflector was hosed. I was very happy to find this part here for such a reasonable price; Sears wanted about $65 for it. Installation required a Torx bit, and removing the old one was easy, but the dryer's design made it difficult to reinstall the heat deflector while keeping the dryer running concentrically. I ended up cutting the heads off three screws, threading those into the plate behind the drum, sliding the new heat deflector on over those, and then one by one replacing them with the original Torx head screws. Once I figured it out it didn't take long but it took me a while to figure it out. That's probably more a reflection on me than the dryer!
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Old timer Knob cracked where clip goes.
27 of 27 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kenneth from OCALA, FL
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I did a search on your site to find out why dryer wouldn't start. It said 25 % of the time it could be the timer knob. Checked my old one sure enough it was cracked.Took old timer knob off and pushed New one back on less than a minute. Thank you for your site. It saved me from costly repairs.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Dryer making squeaking noise when operating
32 of 44 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Clay, NY
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I had to remove the top by taking out the two screws inside the door. Then I removed the front by taking out the two screws holding it from the inside. I needed to remove the drum and to the the belt off, I removed the left side. It has several screws down the back, two on the bottom and two in the front. I removed the belt and drum . I took out the old sleeve bearing. Part of it was broken off into the hole it goes into. I then had to remove the plate that holds the heating element. Once that was done, I put the new bearing on and replaced the drum slides on the from section. Then I reversed the process to reassemble. Not too bad.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Dryer squeaked when running
30 of 39 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mark from Garrett, IN
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Everything is cleaned as it is removed.

Remove the two screws holding the top down.
Disconnect two wires from door switch.
Remove the two hex screws holding the front on.
Remove the 4 screws holding the access panel on the back and disengage idler pulley to loosen the belt.
Remove the drum.
Label the wi res then remove the heating element.
Check orientation of ground strap before disassembling rear bearing.
Remove four screws holding rear bearing to back of heating element.
Install rear bearing and ground strap on to heating element.
Reinstall heating element.
Reconnect wires.

Most Important : Get help putting parts back on drum! I didn't and that's why it took over 2 hours.
I will describe how I did it.

Unscrew bearing from inside of drum.
Wrap screwdriver with tape to a little larger than the screw hole.
Use small screwdriver to line up the drum, shim and deflector.
Don't forget the brass shim. It wasn't on the parts diagram.
Start two screws don't tighten them yet.
Remove Screwdriver and start third screw. Tighten all three down.
Put belt on drum.
Install drum and belt.
Reverse disassembly.
When putting the front on make sure drum rests in the felt.

I rated this a bit difficult because I did it myself. With help this is a fairly easy repair.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
replacement of holed lint screen
30 of 41 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mark from Clarksville, VA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
straightforward swap, just form the top rail and click it in
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
dryer was cutting off completely.
32 of 50 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Stephen from Mechanicsville, VA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
The problem was intermittent. It only happened when the unit was first started. After it was restarted it usually worked until the load was dry. I looked at the schematics and saw that only the hi-temp therostat and the motor overload could stop the dryer completely. I put my volt meter on the hi-temp thermostat and ran the dryer. Wh en the dryer stopped I realized the hi-temp therm. was tripping. I read the web site help for this symptom and the suggestion was the bias therm.
I replaced it and the unit worked.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Dryer squeeked badly when running.
31 of 52 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Craig from Castle Rock, CO
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I've always heard it was a simple job to replace the belt and that would solve the problem. I'd defer to others online when they suggest to replace the rear bearing - they are totally right about that suggestion. My bearing basically fell apart in my hands. Not sure if I needed a belt or not, but it's worth replacing while you are tear ing the thing apart. It took way longer to tear apart than to put back together. The parts and prices from PartsSelect were perfect. The parts were received in 4 business days as they said and were perfect replacement parts.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
interlock switch was bad. Prevents the dishwasher form running as it "thinks" the door is still open.
31 of 52 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Steven from EPHRATA, WA
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Opened door, removed screw holding down metal plate that presses against interlock switch when door is closed. Removed plastic cover thingy that is over interlock switches. Removed the interlock switch by pressing the plastic lock thingy away from switch. Pulled the wires off each end of the interlock switch. Removed new interlock switch from plastic bag and reversed above procedure. Done, shut door and the dishwasher works.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Noisy like a chain rattling inside
27 of 43 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kerry from New Martinsville, WV
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Disconnect Power from the Dryer
Remove 2 screws that held the top on the dryer.
Removed the 2 screw that held the front on the dryer.
Unhooked the belt from the tensioner and motor pulley.
Pulled the drum out. Removed the belt.
Removed the three screws that held the bearing assembly
on the back of the drum.